Feed roller rebuild

[SDiver40]

Does anyone know the best way to get number 13 ( Pin ) out of a feed roller collar? I need to rebuild the feed roller motor but I cant seem to get the pin out so I can get the motor off. I would be greatfull for any help or ideas.
Thanks

 

[CUCV]

Support the back side of item 12 so you are driving against something solid, small sledge hammer and a drift. Sometime I will modify the end of an air chisel for such tasks as well.

 

[VA-Sawyer]

If the pin is hollow then it probably is a tension pin and can be driven out in either direction. On the other hand, if it is solid, I would suspect a tapered pin. It can only be driven out in one direction. You might also check for small circlip snap rings locking it in place.
Use a toothbrush sized wire brush to clean the area for better inspection. A light and miror may help as well.
Rick

 

[SDiver40]

Thank you for the help. The pin is solid and I cant see any type of clip on either end. I'm guessing it is just a tight ( Press ) fit. BUT to save my life I cant get this thing to move.

 

[VA-Sawyer]

I've never seen a solid pin that didn't have some kind of retainer. The hollow ( or tension ) pins are slit lengthwise and made of spring steel. They get compressed to a smaller diameter when pressed in, and the spring tension holds them in place.

Because there is no tension in a solid pin it either has some kind of retainer ( nut,cotter pin,snap ring,setscrew, etc ) or has its ends swaged ( in which case we tend to call it a rivet).

Is this a Bandit 65 by chance ?

Rick

 

[SDiver40]

No it is a wood/chuck highroller 1200. It apears the pins might be tapered but won't go either direction. The pins are almost flush with the collar

 

[SDiver40]

Well I never could get the pin out. It was solid and didnt have any type of clips on it. I even tried the air hammer and it wouldnt even budge it. So I had to remove the roller and motor in one piece so I could get to it. I drilled it out and went a size larger so I would be sure to get all the pin out of it. Now it still wont come apart. I guess the next move will be to get someone with a press to work on it?? I'm out of ideas!!

 

[lone wolf]

well as a last resort you could cut the coupler in half with a die grinder after you know you can get another.

 

[VA-Sawyer]

I went back and compared the drawing to the photo. I don't think the pin goes through the motor shaft. That looks like a pretty big pin compared to the shaft size of the Hyd motor. Motor shaft should be like 3/4" splined and the pin looks like 3/8" or so. Now that you have a picture of it, I would guess the coupling is semi-permanently attached to feed wheel shaft, and that the Hyd motor is a splined slide fit to the coupling. Have you tried lots of penetrating oil applied to inside of coupling and at motor end of coupling as well? Spray it, let it soak, then blow out with compressed air and repeat.

Rick

 

[SDiver40]

It's soaking now. I'm hoping you are right about the motor shaft being splined. IF I could get either one loose then I can handle the other. I'm guessing neither one has been off in years. But never guessed it would be this tough.

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[SDiver40]

well as a last resort you could cut the coupler in half with a die grinder after you know you can another.

Trust me, I thought about doing that. And might before it's over with. LOL

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[DDM]

Pin 13 holds the roller to the coupler the motor should be splind and should not have a pin connecting it. Its probably just seized onto the splines if you have enough clearance to get a ball joint removal tool started you should be able to separate the coupler from the motor with it.

 

[VA-Sawyer]

If he is planning on replacing the Hyd motor then go ahead with the pickel fork, but if he is wanting to repair or rebuild the motor, I wouldn't want to chance the high thrust load on the shaft causing more damage. Of course he may have to do it as a last resort.
Rick

 

[les-or-more]

I've never seen a solid pin that didn't have some kind of retainer. The hollow ( or tension ) pins are slit lengthwise and made of spring steel. They get compressed to a smaller diameter when pressed in, and the spring tension holds them in place.

Because there is no tension in a solid pin it either has some kind of retainer ( nut,cotter pin,snap ring,setscrew, etc ) or has its ends swaged ( in which case we tend to call it a rivet).

Is this a Bandit 65 by chance ?

Rick

The feed rolls on NH forage harvesters use solid pins to hold the drive couplers on, they are a straight pin with a pinched section 180 degrees apart that act like two splines to retain the pin. They cut a groove like a wheel stud does in a hub, they will move either direction but come out easier the opposite from the way they went in. Looking at them installed they look like an ordinary 3/16" pin the spline is only in the center of the pin.

 

[stevejr33]

they are a tapered pin. you will have to beat the cuppler off the feed whele or slice it off, the motor is held on with a nut on the inside of the cuppler.

 

[lone wolf]

Like I said instead of beating the hell out of everything find a new coupler first then cut it length wise with a die cutter.

 

[stevejr33]

yup i use a tortch.

 

[lone wolf]

yup i use a tortch.

Die cutter is better for me so I dont destroy whats around it.

 

[DDM]

Hmmmm interesting the diagram shows the nut but no threads on the motor. 1 of my BB's has the same splined shaft on the motor but there are no threads. I believe a new motor was a little less than 200.00 and the hydraulic shop told me that it was a little more than 200.00 to rebuild the old 1. Might want to check on the coupler price If i remember right they were about 150.00

 

[SDiver40]

Well it’s finally apart, and the pump is almost rebuilt. I had to make a crows foot and use a torch but it finally came apart.
Something I didn’t expect to see, was 4 very thin washers holding the collar in place. Is this a normal way of bolting the collar to the pump?