Felling tree with decay.

[1967 Tempest]

I have a tree in my back yard that, if in the woods and not near my house, I would fell no sweat.

Not sure what kind of tree,(I'll post pics when I get home, hopefully the snow will be gone) I wanna say a Beech. It has a big chunk of decay from the root to about 4-5' up. I would say 20% of the tree is gone. No insects that I can see.

There is a solid 6" Maple tree that I will use to help guide tree etc.. .

The tree is alive. My main concern is a barber chair or a break before I get the back cut or trigger cut.

1: I was going to use the 70* front face cut, then plunge cut, install wedges and the cut trigger. Is this still the preferred method.

2: I was thinking of wrapping the tree above the decay tightly with rope or using several ratchet straps to "hold" the tree together. Good, bad dangerous?

3: The tree is about 20-22" across, should I use more like a 2" hinge because of the rot?

4: should I cut lower or higher.

I ask because of the decay. I'm still on the fence as wether to hire a pro.

Pics to come.

 

[northmanlogging]

Whats it near? Where does it lean? Which side is the rot on compared to lean and desired direction of fall?

Otherwise a good chain or some good rope wrapped above the cut will help, but not a guarantee.

If the rotten bit is on the face or back side then it shouldn't be much of a problem. However... if its on the hinge side, it will make for a bad day, especially if its near any buildings or other high value targets, think of the rotten bit as having zero hold wood on that side, the tree will turn away from that side...

Any way, check if for soundness all the way through, lots of times the rot you see on the outside, carries straight through the center and will hollow out a log, leaving just a rind of live tree, if that is the case, by all means hire a pro, but if its just a sliver of rot, and its not on your holding wood sides have at.

 

[1967 Tempest]

More to come with the pictures. But the hinge and back would be opposite of the rot.

 

[Spotted Owl]

I have a tree in my back yard that, if in the woods and not near my house, I would fell no sweat.

I ask because of the decay. I'm still on the fence as wether to hire a pro.

Pics to come.

Being on the fence answers your own question.

Hire a pro.



Owl

 

[1967 Tempest]

That's why I'm weighing options. If I hire a pro he isn't gonna teach me what he's doing.

Then I won't learn. If this was the 65" oak in front of house I wouldn't be asking.

Not trying to be mean or anything. But I think that the tree is within my pay grade. When you see pics it might make more sense.

 

[slowp]

That's why I'm weighing options. If I hire a pro he isn't gonna teach me what he's doing.

Then I won't learn. If this was the 65" oak in front of house I wouldn't be asking.

Not trying to be mean or anything. But I think that the tree is within my pay grade. When you see pics it might make more sense.

Nonsense. Watch what the pro is doing. You won't be an expert after watching one tree, but you'll probably learn something. Either way, you won't be an expert. But one way you'll live to do another tree or won't go broke paying off the medical bills and or damage.

And, it doesn't sound to me like you are "weighing options". To me it sounds like you already have your mind made up and are looking for Go for its.

 

[Spotted Owl]

Not trying to be mean or anything. But I think that the tree is within my pay grade. When you see pics it might make more sense.

Photos don't make a hill of anything. You aren't comfortable/capable doing this or you wouldn't be on the fence. Being in your "pay grade" and being capable are not the same thing. Lots of people get away with things they are not capable of doing.

slowp's is right, you don't have to be taught, in order to learn.

Let's see. You, have rot, don't know where to cut, don't know how much hinge to use, and are going to guide this mess with something your tree is 4 time bigger than. Build up your confidence before your start, cause you're gonna need it.

No skin off my nose, do what you want. You asked, so I answered.



Owl

 

[1967 Tempest]

Thank you.

 

[bnmc98]

What way is it leaning? If I had a rotten tree near my house and I did not have experience with them.... Get a bucket truck to come in and take it down piece by piece. You will save the deductible on the insurance and the fact that your insurance company will cancel you as high risk and it will be hell and you will pay through the nose finding other insurance (if you can find it) if you put that thing through the roof.

 

[2dogs]

Hire a climber to piece it down to where the stob can not hit the house regardless which way it falls. Then cut it yourself. Remember the number one rule when working on hazard trees near a house...always have someone video the event.

 

[HuskStihl]

1: I was going to use the 70* front face cut, then plunge cut, install wedges and the cut trigger. Is this still the preferred method?.

Not in this particular corner of AS. You've received real advice from real fallers, I'd just like to see a few pictures.

 

[1967 Tempest]

I've looked from all angles. The tree has 0* to 1* of lean. In the direction of the intended fall.

Rot is in heartwood on bottom of tree.

The top has 2 main forks and some scattered branches.

Guessing but, probably 25-30*. I'm not in front of the tree.

Was gonna take tree down last year. Ran out of good weather. Had a neighbors standing dead Ash, 8" at bottom hit the house Friday morning. Scared the crap out of us. That's why I was looking at this May. Once I'm healthy enough to use planned escape route. The tree doesn't sway in some really strong winds we've had, but summer is coming and hot humid storm winds , which are common here due to the lake and seem to blow harder than drier air, might be enough to move the top of the tree if the leaves are on it, The tree might not handle it.

Thank you.

 

[bitzer]

Pictures

 

[bnmc98]

Just fyi, I've cut dead green stuff that had center rot. The tree can come over (and has) before the first cut in the face is done. Better be dead on with your read on the lean. Took me a year of cutting daily to be 95% accurate on my lean reads. Just saying.

 

[HuskStihl]

I'm actually pretty close to 100% with regards to figuring out the lean. After I cut them down, that is.

 

[bnmc98]

I'm saying with particular to neutral looking trees. Those are the hard ones. If he is saying one degree, in my book, thats a hard read, especially without experience. heavy leaners are easy to read, neutral can switch on you with a light breeze. What about canopy weight and direction?

 

[SliverPicker]

Fly me out. I'll drop it for you for free. I've cut one or two rotten culls in the past.

 

[1967 Tempest]

So you can see pretty straight as far as lean goes. But looking again, the canopy weight is more on nonfell direction.
Thanks

 

[treeslayer2003]

not much to make a hinge with there

 

[HuskStihl]

Looks like it's going into the garden no matter what you do