Few more pics of the almost complete car.

[Outlaw5.0]

Thanks. Yea I like the 383 because its not used much. I really don't want to follow the rules and do what everyone else is. 408 is good for all motor applications but unless your using a "R" block or some type of dart block they wont live long. Guess its got to do with the lack of cylinder wall after all that boring to get it to that cubic inch. The 383 retains alot of the blocks integrity.

The 383 does not retain any more block integrity compared to a 408 or 418. The only difference is the stroke, they all use a 4.030 bore.

Stock block.........

4.030 bore x 3.750 stroke = 383
4.030 bore x 3.850 stroke = 393
4.030 bore x 4.000 stroke = 408
4.030 bore x 4.100 stroke = 418
4.030 bore x 4.250 stroke = 434

Aftermarket block with siamese bore.........

4.125 bore x 3.750 stroke = 400
4.125 bore x 3.850 stroke = 412
4.125 bore x 4.000 stroke = 427
4.125 bore x 4.100 stroke = 438
4.125 bore x 4.250 stroke = 454

The Dart and World block can be bored to 4.200.

 

[CLEARVIEW TREE]

Got another post in this section with all that information. I made a new thread because its been awhile.

Stock bottom end 302 with Gt40p heads worked over by me. (Springs, ported intake runners, polished exhaust runners, 5 angle valve job.)
Edelbrock Intake with 1'' spacer gasket ported. All the other normal boltons and upgrades.

Turbonetics T72 Turbo with a Pony Down stage 1 hotside. Coldside is home made from mandrel bent aluminum. JGS 44mm wastegate and Tial 50mm BOV.

AODE tranny just rebuilt by me and changed over to full manual since my cars computer wont support electronic shift. Supposed to be on a 95 mustang. All new red alto clutches and kolene steels. Mechanical diode, hardened input shaft staked in and all new servos and accumulators. Should be good for 800ish horses at the wheels.

Fresh 3:73 .1 rear end with girdled cover and 31 spline axles. Explorer 31 spline carrier with new Richmond mini spool. 5 lug swap with new brakes all the way around. New FRPP ALuminum driveshaft and Metco driveshaft loop. Competition Engineering bolt/weld in full length subframes with seat supports.

Hey slip, you mentioned you're running the gt 40 p's. Do you like em. Also, you say you did your own porting. What did you port, hopefully just the exhaust bump in the exhaust port. I believe that head will do pretty well for you. My last car had a 347, scat crank, h- beam rods, hand assembled by me and my brother. The heads were the old TFS high ports, titanium valves, Heads by Rick in Hollywood ,Fla did the heads, ported, polished, shaved, block was also decked. My gt 40 intake and the heads were also extrude honed and i tell ya the Extrude Hone process is awesome for a motor. They flow so much more. DId you ever flow bench your heads? My car ran 7.30's in the 1/8, never was on the 1/4mile.
It ran that on the motor, never felt the need for a power adder, but i prefer a turbo like you chose. Good luck with your setup, keep us posted man, later.

 

[slipknot91]

I ported the intakes with a milling machine at work. Just opened them up to a 351 intake gasket. Went back nside with a carbide grinding wheel and cut spirals as far as I could without hitting the valve stems. Opened the exhaust ports to match the gaskets and ground off the thermactor bumps. The valve job was done by a local machine shop and when I got them back I assembled the heads with the high .600'' lift springs and new valves and guides, etc.
They are pretty good heads for the money.

Feel bad posting this because I just got rid of the project about 2 weeks ago. I got burned out on this thing and was running out of money to fund it. Even if I had finished it, I couldn't afford to maintain it when I started racing it. I traded the almost completed project for another Mustang that I can daily drive. Couple more years I may start a new project and do things a little mor different than last time. I still was second guessing myself about some of the things I had done and had other stuff I wanted to do differently. I'll post pics of the new ride shortly.

 

[slipknot91]

 

[slipknot91]

The white vert is the car I traded for. The only thing I've done to it so far is change wheels. It had Saleens on it 18x9's and I hate big wheels so I switched them out for some Prostars from Jegs and new tires. The car just came from the paint booth in April. It is pearl with silver flake in the clear. The top is brand new and the whole suspension is brand new from front to back. Has a fresh 306 with a B cam and TRW flat top pistons and Typhoon intake. Fresh AOD and the interior is emaculate all but the seats. I think I did pretty good with the trade but I lost alot of money. The other guy is getting alot of good stuff but he does have to finish the build. I drove it off the trailer when I got there and the car ran great for him and he was pleased. All he needed to do was finish paint and install the rest of the interior.

 

[slipknot91]

This was what I left him with.

 

[slipknot91]

more.......








Needless to say, He didn't do bad in the deal either. He wanted a race car to finish up and I wanted out of the game for a while. I asked 8000 for the car and ended up trading him even for his car.

I'm doing minor things to the vert like the wheels and cleaning up under the hood. I will be adding a reprogramming kit to the aod to tighten up the shifts and have some manual control also. Gonna replace the front seats and maybe add a cage on the inside. Verts flex like crazy. Lastly I may get a hair across my A$$ and install a wet kit up to around 175hp. Just to keep the inspiration flowing untill I get another project started, lol.

 

[stihlaficionado]

Got another post in this section with all that information. I made a new thread because its been awhile.

Stock bottom end 302 with Gt40p heads worked over by me. (Springs, ported intake runners, polished exhaust runners, 5 angle valve job.)
Edelbrock Intake with 1'' spacer gasket ported. All the other normal boltons and upgrades.

Turbonetics T72 Turbo with a Pony Down stage 1 hotside. Coldside is home made from mandrel bent aluminum. JGS 44mm wastegate and Tial 50mm BOV.

AODE tranny just rebuilt by me and changed over to full manual since my cars computer wont support electronic shift. Supposed to be on a 95 mustang. All new red alto clutches and kolene steels. Mechanical diode, hardened input shaft staked in and all new servos and accumulators. Should be good for 800ish horses at the wheels.

Fresh 3:73 .1 rear end with girdled cover and 31 spline axles. Explorer 31 spline carrier with new Richmond mini spool. 5 lug swap with new brakes all the way around. New FRPP ALuminum driveshaft and Metco driveshaft loop. Competition Engineering bolt/weld in full length subframes with seat supports.

Forgive my ignorance, not a tech dude...but I've always wondered why builders leave the bottom end stock. Won't the added hp put too much stress on the bearings/crankshaft?

thanks,

mark

 

[slipknot91]

Yes it will. But I left mine that way because in the beginning, the car was just to be a street/strip vehicle. Primarily street friendly and able to go to the track on occasion. The bottom end of a 5.0 is capable of supporting 500 crank horsepower on a long term basis as long as its not abused. The build kind of got out of hand in the last few months and could be deemed "no longer a street friendly car" and thats the reason I needed to let it go. I realized that I really needed to take it all back down and do the crank and rods for it to be "reliable" but I had no more funds for that. Really, it needed another block and all the fixings to be reliable with the turbo set up I was using. Your looking at almost 8000 dollars in SVO or Dart block plus a good crank and forged H beam rods. The pistons are already forged from the factory from 1990 on up.

The reason backyard builders do this is because its cheap to find a long block and slap some good heads and cam in and add a power adder and go have fun for a while untill it blows and then they can have it all back up and running again in a weekend with a short block replacement. Over time it will cost more to do that but I'd say 70 percent of the people that do this stop racing at some point and just get out of it all together.

Hope that answers your question.

 

[stihlaficionado]

Yes it will. But I left mine that way because in the beginning, the car was just to be a street/strip vehicle. Primarily street friendly and able to go to the track on occasion. The bottom end of a 5.0 is capable of supporting 500 crank horsepower on a long term basis as long as its not abused. The build kind of got out of hand in the last few months and could be deemed "no longer a street friendly car" and thats the reason I needed to let it go. I realized that I really needed to take it all back down and do the crank and rods for it to be "reliable" but I had no more funds for that. Really, it needed another block and all the fixings to be reliable with the turbo set up I was using. Your looking at almost 8000 dollars in SVO or Dart block plus a good crank and forged H beam rods. The pistons are already forged from the factory from 1990 on up.

The reason backyard builders do this is because its cheap to find a long block and slap some good heads and cam in and add a power adder and go have fun for a while untill it blows and then they can have it all back up and running again in a weekend with a short block replacement. Over time it will cost more to do that but I'd say 70 percent of the people that do this stop racing at some point and just get out of it all together.

Hope that answers your question.

Sure does...I owned two Mustangs over the last 35 yrs:
1. 1968 Fastback, 289 , 30 over, headers, Holley 650 , auto...didn't do any of the work...wished it had a stck shift. My dad had to put in two transmissions
while I had the car opcorn:

2. 1983 Mustang GT, 302, 5 spd...jeez, THAT car was a piece of s**t. I owned it five years and was CONSTANTLY putting $$ into it. Bought new.
Let's see, if I remember correctly some of it's problems included: bad lifter 2 weeks after delivery, leaking carb(finally replaced it), blown heater hoses,
rack & pinion went south while driving on the hwy, bolts rattling off, rust(in Florida), crappy paint. But hey I was 26 & didn't give a damn then.

But I've always been a FORD man

 

[Paul61]

Had an 83 Gt myself. Red with the black hood & scoop.
Had 2 issues with the car:
- idled like crap till I did a little grinding on the Holley baseplate to uncover the idle mixture screws for the rear barrels, ran perfect after that tune up.
- Couldn't keep the rear tires from shedding rubber on the pavement!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[NYH1]

Nice car!

I had a '85 GT, T-tops, 5.0L last year for the carb, 5 speed. It came with a 7.5" rear end w/2.73's. I put a 8.8" in it with 3.55's, Hooker shorty headers, Hooker 2 1/2" full length exhaust, an Edelbrock 600. Other then that it was stock. I wish I still had it!

 

[olyman]

Nice car!

I had a '85 GT, T-tops, 5.0L last year for the carb, 5 speed. It came with a 7.5" rear end w/2.73's. I put a 8.8" in it with 3.55's, Hooker shorty headers, Hooker 2 1/2" full length exhaust, an Edelbrock 600. Other then that it was stock. I wish I still had it!

yah,ill bet--and the t-tops were quite rare---

 

[streeter]

I seen that. THere is a guy about a hour and a half from me that has atleast 5 cars with my set-up going low 5's in the eighth. And they are daily driven. Shop is HED Harrel Engine Dyno. One of those cars is stock e7 heads and an AOD. THats moving on right there.

The stock block can take some abuse as long as the tune is correct. RPM's is what kills them. Keep em under 6500 and keep the tune right, they will last forever.

I dont know I worked in a performance shop for fords and seen many stock (factory) block 302 crack in 1/2!! with HP @500 hp:jawdrop: I could pull the intake manifold and watch the block fall apart...LOL.

I am currently thinking of doing a 5.4 conversion in my 02 stang or a 4.6 with a torqtech/KB 4.6.

 

[056kid]

Buddy of mine is running 5.46's with an ls stuck motor with nothing more than a bad ass fuel system & 91mm turbopushing less than 10lbs in his fox coupe.

Whole package=less than 8 g's!!


& ts a street ride. .

 

[Paul61]

I seen that. THere is a guy about a hour and a half from me that has atleast 5 cars with my set-up going low 5's in the eighth. And they are daily driven. Shop is HED Harrel Engine Dyno. One of those cars is stock e7 heads and an AOD. THats moving on right there.

The stock block can take some abuse as long as the tune is correct. RPM's is what kills them. Keep em under 6500 and keep the tune right, they will last forever.

"Old" drag racer here.
What kinda HP is your setup making?
Low 5's in the eighth (or low 8's in the quarter) in a 3000 lb car requires 1000 ++ rear wheel HP. I doubt the stock Ford block or bottom end design would survive the cyl. pressures & RPM required to make this HP?

 

[056kid]

"Old" drag racer here.
What kinda HP is your setup making?
Low 5's in the eighth (or low 8's in the quarter) in a 3000 lb car requires 1000 ++ rear wheel HP. I doubt the stock Ford block or bottom end design would survive the cyl. pressures & RPM required to make this HP?

A good stud girtle & the right amount of boost and you can make ALOT happen with a fox body stang with stock block.

And by the way, 3000 lbs is alittle heavy...









I am a Mopar man though...

 

[Paul61]

A good stud girtle & the right amount of boost and you can make ALOT happen with a fox body stang with stock block.

And by the way, 3000 lbs is alittle heavy...









I am a Mopar man though...

I hear ya.
The quoted 3000lbs included the driver (averaging 160 lbs?).
What's the car's weight race ready?
Even if it weighed in @ 2500, with driver (I seriously doubt it)....you'd need 900 rear wheel HP to run low 5's.
Since the stock 5 speed ain't gonna do it, you must be talking auto trans, or Lenco(Not)?
Add another 15 to 20% to the rear wheel #'s to get crank HP.
You're still over 1000 HP @ the crank.......period!

 

[056kid]

no , lots of guys are doing mid & low 5's with less than 700 at the wheels its all a matter of how that power hits the pavement.


If when you let off that button and you go toting the front clip down the tar @ 5500 rpm, you can run low 5's...

 

[Paul61]

no , lots of guys are doing mid & low 5's with less than 700 at the wheels its all a matter of how that power hits the pavement.


If when you let off that button and you go toting the front clip down the tar @ 5500 rpm, you can run low 5's...

Sure they are............@ what weight?
700 @ the wheels will do your #'s in a 2000 lb car (dragster maybe?) but, not in any stang that I know of, unless you're able to change the laws of physics......regardless of how far you "tote the front clip down the tar"??