FileO Plate compatibility

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unknwn

ArboristSite Member
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New to the site, and have already spent quite a bit of time struggling through some open-ended searches for info,
So, here it is:
I learned about this defunct product line -File O Plate- , and found a decidedly overpriced source for an appropriately sized version (3/8" Low profile), and before I'd pull the trigger I felt the need to ask a band of experts : Can the File O Plate intended for a specific pitch/profile be expected to work properly with chain manufactured by companies other than Carlton (say, Stihl -or- Oregon) ? -or- should this gem be considered proprietary to the Carlton brand chain(s) only ?
 
It has worked for me, I got a selection of them though and I hardly use them anymore, I just find it easier to use a flat file with 2 or three swipes & a beer bottle cap to protect the tooth from the file.
 
Thanks for the reply. I wish were as confident in my skill set at this point, but with being out of the mix (long term (nearly 20yrs.) recovery from an industrial accident) as long as I have, a crutch for certain tasks here and there isn't always a bad thing.
Besides, it would seem to be a welcome teaching tool to get the current crop of "(k)NO(w) every(no)thing" graduates that there REALLY -is- "more behind the curtain" than all those utubeXpurts would lead them to believe.
I absorbed the knowledge imparted in the Carlton saw chain booklet I found in these valuable pages, and am willing to realize that "by eye" & "seat of the pants" just doesn't get it while in a (re-)learning phase, especially when the possible consequences are (YEeack!!) broken chain flailing about looking to cleave one's skull open and/or impart bloody mishap on the unwary.
 
They will work on other brand chains as long as the pitch is the same and the style is the same. Example: won't work well to use a file o plate designed for a safety type chain on a non safety....

Sent from my SM-G930VL using Tapatalk
 
If the holders of the remaining stock weren't convinced of some extraordinary value I'd just get one and determine suitability via fit, or lack there-of.
But the seller (who supposedly has sold -hundreds- of them) figures to eek $23+ each from the remaining specimens.
The description of individual models -does- list the Carlton model chains that each of the manufacturer's# was meant to accommodate, but then, I have to track down -THAT- bit of wisdom in the form of images and/or detailed description.
Since these plate gauges were marketed as "tempered", would that mean they would be -resistant-(NOT impervious though) to file imposed destruction?
When reading about the FileO Plate in that informational brochure, it is touted fairly prominently the advantages of that product versus the competition's offerings.
 
It has worked for me, I got a selection of them though and I hardly use them anymore, I just find it easier to use a flat file with 2 or three swipes & a beer bottle cap to protect the tooth from the file.
Same here.
I just take a good flat file and grind the edges smooth so as if it touches a tooth it does no harm and on the chains that cutters are worn back to 40% or less I just lay the same flat file across the top of the teeth to gauge the cutter depth.
This has worked good for me for several years.

Chainsaw sharping Newbies though should use all the gauges they can until they become experienced at what they are trying to achieve when sharpening a chainsaw chain.
 
Same here.
I just take a good flat file and grind the edges smooth so as if it touches a tooth it does no harm and on the chains that cutters are worn back to 40% or less I just lay the same flat file across the top of the teeth to gauge the cutter depth.
This has worked good for me for several years.

Chainsaw sharping Newbies though should use all the gauges they can until they become experienced at what they are trying to achieve when sharpening a chainsaw chain.
That rings of "good advice". Maybe I'll buy one of those Carlton plates if it shows up in the "less that gold" column someday, but in the mean time.....
 
What would you describe as a "good file"? (type/tooth count/ect.)?
I can order up a Pferd 17310 flat file that is a replacement for the depth gauge dressing file in the CS-X sharpening tool for about $11, and there is certainly no doubt about quality, but I don't know whether that particular file sports a tang or not.
 
If there is a Stihl dealer near by, you can buy a top quality file wish smooth sides for not a lot of money. Many chains have a wittiness mark to aid in keeping angles and distances uniform as the chain is filed. Stihl also offers a progressive raker file guide.
 
If there is a Stihl dealer near by, you can buy a top quality file wish smooth sides for not a lot of money. Many chains have a wittiness mark to aid in keeping angles and distances uniform as the chain is filed. Stihl also offers a progressive raker file guide.
Whats up Duane.
Any chance you could post a link for stihls progressive guide. I have some from Europe, never seen them here in the states otherwise.
 
That rings of "good advice". Maybe I'll buy one of those Carlton plates if it shows up in the "less that gold" column someday, but in the mean time.....
It is good advice :).
Welcome to AS sir.
I like the husky progressive guides myself.
Which 3/8 LP are you filing. If you happen to get the depth gauges too low you can file the cutters with a slightly larger diameter file to decrease the hook/side plate angle so the cutters won't be as grabby. Depending on the saws ability to pull a chain, tuning the chain to the specific saw makes the world of difference, and all the more if the saw is underpowered.
Have a blessed day.
 
It is good advice :).
Welcome to AS sir.
I like the husky progressive guides myself.
Which 3/8 LP are you filing. If you happen to get the depth gauges too low you can file the cutters with a slightly larger diameter file to decrease the hook/side plate angle so the cutters won't be as grabby. Depending on the saws ability to pull a chain, tuning the chain to the specific saw makes the world of difference, and all the more if the saw is underpowered.
Have a blessed day.
The Dewalt battery saw is an .043 and it's certainly simply adequate in the power department. It's OE (Oregon?) chain is supposedly already expecting a 4.5/11/64 cutter file, which I've already got some of, for when the "touch-up" will be required (likely, quite soon).
The little yellow demon is great for what I'm expecting from it , but the OE chain is suited for joeNOexperience, and consequently isn't voracious by any measure whatsoever.
As far as these depth gauge guide plates go, if the Husqv. one wasn't manufactured from taffy (basically,as expendable as files??) I might opt for one of those, but the Carlton ones are touted as "tempered" (as well as other implied advantages), and as I previously mentioned, maybe that qualifies them as "file resistant" and maybe, more valuable as a tool ?
 
The Dewalt battery saw is an .043 and it's certainly simply adequate in the power department. It's OE (Oregon?) chain is supposedly already expecting a 4.5/11/64 cutter file, which I've already got some of, for when the "touch-up" will be required (likely, quite soon).
The little yellow demon is great for what I'm expecting from it , but the OE chain is suited for joeNOexperience, and consequently isn't voracious by any measure whatsoever.
As far as these depth gauge guide plates go, if the Husqv. one wasn't manufactured from taffy (basically,as expendable as files??) I might opt for one of those, but the Carlton ones are touted as "tempered" (as well as other implied advantages), and as I previously mentioned, maybe that qualifies them as "file resistant" and maybe, more valuable as a tool ?
I've watched an oe safety chain be turned into a great cutting chain many times, the right guy on the files/grinder makes all the difference in the world. That being said, starting with a non-safety chain is certainly my preference.
It all depends on the particular husky file guide your talking about. While the LP guides just suck in general the standard 3/8 guides are great and I don't see many wearing them out. Remember they are a guide so a standard 3/8 can be used to guide you to the right depth gauge setting, or you can use the LP guides by placing it over the depth gauge, checking the height, remove it and then file, then put it back on to check the height. Let's remember it doesn't need to be perfect, if its within a few thousands I think you'll be just fine, and you will never wear one out. Or, you could go buy the higher dollar ones and wear them out, that's if they fit your chain :).
 
Just FWIW, the File-O-Plates are very hard and basically impervious to a file. If you press hard on the file to get the bottom of the gullet you can dull a good file in one or two chains skidding it over the plate.

The 36504 plate will fit on the original chain that came on my DeWalt DCCS620.

Mark
 
Just FWIW, the File-O-Plates are very hard and basically impervious to a file. If you press hard on the file to get the bottom of the gullet you can dull a good file in one or two chains skidding it over the plate.

The 36504 plate will fit on the original chain that came on my DeWalt DCCS620.

Mark
Exactly the sort of information I've been looking for. I'm going to do a comparison to the PMM3 Stihl chain I've got coming as a back-up/alternate before I'd buy that plate. If it is a spot on replacement for the OE Dewalt loop I will let you know. As far as I'd suspect it will be of better quality than the OE Oregon, and it's working out to be about $5 less expensive than Dewalt replacement pricing.
 
The problem we had at the factory with FileOPlate was the scrap rate. Very hard to keep flat after running through the rotary furnace. However when they were correct they worked great. We would get letters from people all the time telling us how amazing the tool was. Oregon saw no use for when they bought the company and I'm pretty sure scrapped the dies.
 
I cannot recommend a file of guide because

Things I know about using a file o plate. (and these things are not in the manual or instructions)
Some things you just cannot get out of a Book. (such as common sense experience)
When I first started using one I thought they were great.
BUT

1. As the cutting tooth on a chain wears back and gets to around 1/2 a tooth the file o guide's file is not sharpening the top of the tooth correct. The file is riding too high on the tooth. Why, because the depth tang is holding the file o guide up too high. You must keep the depth tang filed down BEFORE using a file o guide to sharpen a chain. The more you file the less the chain will cut because it's not getting a good chip bite.

2. If you accidently install the wrong size file into the file o guide plate it will not sharpen correctly.

3. Works ok when touching up a new chain if you have the correct one using the correct size file.

I not longer use a file o guide I now know how to free hand file and do not use a guide of any kind except what is between my ears.
 
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