Filing Rakers with a Dremel

[mattmc2003]

Sharpening is like foreplay for my saw...I take my time, and use the files.

I like that! rep for you. kinda explains how i feel too...lol.

 

[willsaw4beer]

Sharpening is like foreplay for my saw...I take my time, and use the files.

lol, a pretty good analogy. The more time you spend on the filin the better the cuttin.

 

[mattmc2003]

Sharpening makes for good quiet time to concentrate and just chill out.

 

[willsaw4beer]

Sharpening makes for good quiet time to concentrate and just chill out.

Yep, relax, have a few beers, take your time and make sure every cutter looks like a clone of the one before and after. A good nighttime activity, that way you can just grab a saw and go the next day instead of :censored: around with the chain, air filter etc.

 

[mattmc2003]

Yep, relax, have a few beers, take your time and make sure every cutter looks like a clone of the one before and after. A good nighttime activity, that way you can just grab a saw and go the next day instead of :censored: around with the chain, air filter etc.

I probobly clean my filter, file my chain, and generally piddle with saws too much, but i like to fool with saws, and keep them in good shape, so i do all that at night when i don't have much else to do. Except household chores.... but i tell the wife.... " Sorry, i couldn't get the dishes done, had to file two chains, and was busy working on saws all evening." Amazing how work can sometimes be a hobby...lol.

 

[willsaw4beer]

I probobly clean my filter, file my chain, and generally piddle with saws too much, but i like to fool with saws, and keep them in good shape, so i do all that at night when i don't have much else to do. Except household chores.... but i tell the wife.... " Sorry, i couldn't get the dishes done, had to file two chains, and was busy working on saws all evening." Amazing how work can sometimes be a hobby...lol.

I know what you mean, I normally get 2 or 3 saws ready and run about 2/3 to 3/4 tank on them the next day. The Huskies keep a clean airfilter for awhile but the 034 gets blownout whenever I get a chance. The file gets run through the cutters after less than a 1/2 tank of gas, bar gets flipped, grooves cleaned out and underneath bar cover gets cleaned out every tank. I spend close to as much time 'cleaning and maintaining' the saws as I do actually cutting with them.

 

[lambs]

I have a Northern Tool version of the Oregon chain grinder. I do not often check depth gauges (don't saw that much), but when I need to grind them I put on the 1/4" grinding wheel, and set it vertical (90 degree setting). Then I use the Stihl gauge to set one depth gauge correctly, filing it by hand. Finally, I set the depth on the grinding wheel to the point where it is barely touching the depth gauge I just filed, start the grinder, and lower it onto each depth gauge. Makes pretty quick work of it and automatically sets the depth gauges to the same depth. The first time I did this on a chain I was amazed at the difference it made.

 

[carvinmark]

I have a Northern Tool version of the Oregon chain grinder. I do not often check depth gauges (don't saw that much), but when I need to grind them I put on the 1/4" grinding wheel, and set it vertical (90 degree setting). Then I use the Stihl gauge to set one depth gauge correctly, filing it by hand. Finally, I set the depth on the grinding wheel to the point where it is barely touching the depth gauge I just filed, start the grinder, and lower it onto each depth gauge. Makes pretty quick work of it and automatically sets the depth gauges to the same depth. The first time I did this on a chain I was amazed at the difference it made.

That's how I do it too. I run a raker file over the leading edge to keep it rounded after grinding.
I would never take the rakers off, very dangerous and hard on the teeth.
FYI, raker files have smooth, rounded sides so they won't damage the cutting edge of the tooth. They are very worth using.

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

I just got a....well a long term "wonder" answered

That's how I do it too. I run a raker file over the leading edge to keep it rounded after grinding.
I would never take the rakers off, very dangerous and hard on the teeth.
FYI, raker files have smooth, rounded sides so they won't damage the cutting edge of the tooth. They are very worth using.

I just got a....well a long term "wonder" answered...why do they sell files with the gauge I've thought....I can just use one of my many flat files.

 

[J.W Younger]

now that right there is funny

I file them off for my small Poulans, not the 385xp

nuff said

 

[motobike]

Chain Sharpening Information

The Stihl web site has a very good video on chain sharpening, and it covers the rakers also.

Go to Stihl.com, then click on infromation, and choose chain sharpening:
The video runs a couple of minuets.

It is an informational video so it is a little dry, but that is the way it is. Overall it is a good training tool.

Take their information and work it into your procedure and come up with something that works for you.

 

[flatpikr]

Here's how a dentist does it.

Since I've spent most of my adult life with a drill in my hand, I'm fairly comfortable with a dremel. Mine has a foot operated rheostat. Mostly I just use the dental lab stone shown below. If it's really snowing hard out and I've got some time to kill, I will use the abrasive rubber tips after the stone to give them a slight polish. Since I only cut green cedar, I'm OK at .040. I check the chain before I sharpen. If the depth gauges show to be a little high, I just use my best judgement and go for it. Then I sharpen.

 

[thejdman04]

I have a Northern Tool version of the Oregon chain grinder. I do not often check depth gauges (don't saw that much), but when I need to grind them I put on the 1/4" grinding wheel, and set it vertical (90 degree setting). Then I use the Stihl gauge to set one depth gauge correctly, filing it by hand. Finally, I set the depth on the grinding wheel to the point where it is barely touching the depth gauge I just filed, start the grinder, and lower it onto each depth gauge. Makes pretty quick work of it and automatically sets the depth gauges to the same depth. The first time I did this on a chain I was amazed at the difference it made.

Thank you for the reply that was very helpful, I will give that a try.

Since I've spent most of my adult life with a drill in my hand, I'm fairly comfortable with a dremel. Mine has a foot operated rheostat. Mostly I just use the dental lab stone shown below. If it's really snowing hard out and I've got some time to kill, I will use the abrasive rubber tips after the stone to give them a slight polish. Since I only cut green cedar, I'm OK at .040. I check the chain before I sharpen. If the depth gauges show to be a little high, I just use my best judgement and go for it. Then I sharpen.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[goodtiming]

I

I have always used a dremel. I have a raker file from baileys. Seems to be a lot quicker though to use the dremel and I do use a guide. I sharpen chains (for friends family neighbors etc etc) and get lots of chains that have been sharpened to where the cutter is almost gone, but the rakers havent been touched. I find I can usually do it quicker with a dremel, especially if I have to take a lot off. I usually sharpen once a week, and if I am cutting all week, I may have 6 or 7 chains to do every week. + some for friends and family neighbors etc, sometimes I have 20+ chains to do. I dont enjoy sharpening chains, so I try to get it done as fast as possible. I like to touch the rakers up every grinding or every other grinding. Just looking for a quick way to do it so I use a dremel. So I was wondering for those of you who use a dremel what stone you use.

I think a developer is a good idea.
I find it hard to find a good flat file.
But I still use a file.