Finallly... wood shed in progress

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Looks nice, but those holes for the posts are nowhere near deep enough. I know kentucky is full of big rock. What is your frost level? I would have dug them 3 foot in southern ohio. I think your building is going to heave this winter when the ground freezes. Also just from experience, never put concrete under a post, you need some gravel for drainage. Sorry......dont want to be the bad guy but seen alot of issues from shallow posts up here.
 
Looks nice, but those holes for the posts are nowhere near deep enough. I know kentucky is full of big rock. What is your frost level? I would have dug them 3 foot in southern ohio. I think your building is going to heave this winter when the ground freezes. Also just from experience, never put concrete under a post, you need some gravel for drainage. Sorry......dont want to be the bad guy but seen alot of issues from shallow posts up here.

I pour concrete posts at least 2ft and anchor whatever is on top to them. No rot for a long long time. Its depends what kind of ground if its ####ty i go deep.
The amount of weight also makes a difference.
 
I don't care how you do something, someone will have a different way to do it. Thats part of being human

Mac
 
Someone has relieved me of the good 12ga extension cord I bought in February

For months I thought someone had stolen that extension cord. I turned the place over multiple times looking for it and had given up. My wife said it was in there someplace because of all the stuff I have in there, an extension cord is not what someone would pilfer. She was right. It turned up today inside my shop vac. Why the heck did I put it there? :dizzy:

Ian
 
I don't care how you do something, someone will have a different way to do it. Thats part of being human

Mac

Not what i was saying. I was just stating a fact about wood in concrete.
 
It's water under the bridge now... whether it rots off in 10 yrs or heaves this winter, it's just something I'll have to deal with when the time comes.

Ian

I wouldn't worry about it. Its really not that bad. In 50 years cut the beams 4" form the ground fill in the hole with cement and rise it up a few inches get a metal foot and anchor it to the cement.
Its looks plenty strong!
 
I do know.... lol. Ridgid make a good one also, but I prefer the Bosch, it's superior.
Haywood I've make plenty o cabinet/shelves with it works great!:cheers:

oh god.... keep em clean and their all good.

in the masonry business nothing last's for more then a few months. Milwaukee is the only thing that holds up, but look at the prices compared to the home depot homeowner stuff.
 
I wouldn't worry about it. Its really not that bad. In 50 years cut the beams 4" form the ground fill in the hole with cement and rise it up a few inches get a metal foot and anchor it to the cement.
Its looks plenty strong!
+1. That's kind of what I did. A few bottle jacks will hold it up while you work to save the posts. It will groan a bit, kind of like a sinking ship, while you hoist it up.

However, you may not have to wait 50 years, and those forms I built to make the concrete piers I poured were kind of fun to build. I even embedded a lag screw at the center to penetrate the bottom of the post.
 
oh god.... keep em clean and their all good.

in the masonry business nothing last's for more then a few months. Milwaukee is the only thing that holds up, but look at the prices compared to the home depot homeowner stuff.

Matt - I bought my last Milwaukee tool a few years ago - One of their chop saws for steel. It was about the most expensive in the catalog at the time, but I'd always bought Milwaukee when I could. The saw came, it had "Made in Japan" on the label. That really :censored: me off. You're right about the masonry, nothing lasts long. Even gloves, moving block, brick & stone is tougher on them than wood.
 
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My compound miter saw is a 10" Craftsman.. It missed cutting the full dimension 2x6s by just a tiny bit, I always had to break off the last corner. If it ever dies on me, the next one will be a 12". I don't expect it to though as little as I use it.

Ian
 
a tip

My compound miter saw is a 10" Craftsman.. It missed cutting the full dimension 2x6s by just a tiny bit, I always had to break off the last corner. If it ever dies on me, the next one will be a 12". I don't expect it to though as little as I use it.

Ian

to finish the cut,.. as you are raising the saw away from the incomplete cut.. carefully roll the front of the board up. making sure the back of the board is still firmly against the fence. On a long heavy board it might take some even support on the long end..Top keep it from twisting.
Nice shed Ian..
 
Haywire,

Are you planning on drying or just storing wood in your three sided shed? I store my wood in one bay of my open front shed and it doesn't dry very fast in the shed compared to having it outside. I try to have the wood dry enough to burn for most species before putting in the shed. It will keep great once it's in there.

I'd like to build a woodshed out at dad's with all open walls for good airflow. Just a roof and some posts. I might add cattle panels for walls to keep the bovines in the pasture from knocking over my stacks. They do it all the time with my outside stacks.

Don

:agree2: 10 years with the woodshed for ~ 5+ cords ( real ones ). Leave the rear and side walls partially open spaced maybe a few inches apart for ventilation. That's worked well for us. I used "flitch boards" for the 3 sides from a friend's milling scraps...free. Smart move to use tin roofing; we used corregated fiberglass panels that don't have any rigidity and do crack from branch drops.
Looking good H² :clap::clap::clap:
 
Thanks for the heads up about air flow. I figured the one open side combined with the open eaves would be plenty. I'll space the boxing fairly wide on the wood storage side when I go to close it in. Maybe use a 2x4 or something similar for a spacer between boards. By the time the green wood dries, it should leave at least a 2" gap.

Ian
 
It'll be half wood and half general storage. If I stack it 7.5' high, the wood side should hold 7.5 cords.

Next summer, I'm think I'm going to add a lean-to to the left side of it. I'll either move the mower there and use the whole thing for wood or just put the wood in the add on. My original goal was to have space for 3 years worth of wood. Maybe with the add on, I can still accomplish that.

Ian
 
It'll be half wood and half general storage. If I stack it 7.5' high, the wood side should hold 7.5 cords.

Next summer, I'm think I'm going to add a lean-to to the left side of it. I'll either move the mower there and use the whole thing for wood or just put the wood in the add on. My original goal was to have space for 3 years worth of wood. Maybe with the add on, I can still accomplish that.

Ian

Any additional tax burden by adding an outbuilding to your property?

I see a fair amount of woodsheds that are just timber frames with roofs since full walls put you in a different taxation category.
 

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