Finishing paneling

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trax

ArboristSite Operative
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We built a small cabin on a lake out of hemlock that I sawed off the property. I was just going use rough cut to finish the inside also. My better half wants it smooth, she says the rough cut paneling will collect dust? Since I'm going to be butting boards on the walls running horizontally, I was going to try to give them a better edge on a table saw and run them through a planner ? I was also going to try to make some sort of lap with a dado (sp) blade on the table saw. Any sugestion would really be appreciated

Thanks
 
your going to need a jointer,tablesaw, planer and a router

you want something like this
swp-5.jpg


this is the the way that i do them I plane the wood to the desired thickness , I then joint both edges and then router them on a router table with toung and groov bits ,



http://www.newwoodworker.com/stuptngbits.html
 
Lap joints are a little easier, can reduce the extra tools/tooling, and still allow for wood movement.

Our house is sheathed in horizontal boards, ship lap joints, between 1/4-3/8" overlap.

Planed on interior side will keep the mrs. happy.
 
We built a small cabin on a lake out of hemlock that I sawed off the property. I was just going use rough cut to finish the inside also. My better half wants it smooth, she says the rough cut paneling will collect dust? Since I'm going to be butting boards on the walls running horizontally, I was going to try to give them a better edge on a table saw and run them through a planner ? I was also going to try to make some sort of lap with a dado (sp) blade on the table saw. Any sugestion would really be appreciated

Thanks

Like to see some pics of the above mentioned, please. That is going to look nice.
 
As BC Logger says... to do it right you will need a jointer first to get one good side. Then thickness planer to make all the boards same thickness. Back on planer to get one good edge. Then table saw to rip to width and crosscut nice clean ends. Finally make your tongue and groove on a router table. If you try and do the routing free hand, you will have a heck of a time keeping it all strait and even. Lot of work, but if you already have the toys, a lot cheaper than buying finished tongue and groove lumber.
 
Thanks for the replies here are some pic's. I cut all the framing lumber for the cabin and used T-111 for the siding. You can see the Lake down thru the trees behind my mill. I'm building this to stay in while I built the house where my dog is standing.

camp059.jpg


camp060.jpg


camp062.jpg


camp063.jpg


camp065.jpg
 
I'm getting ready to make some vee tongue & groove Aspen, and Juniper paneling. In the past I have built a jig for a table saw, to make it a "straight line rip saw". I took a peice of 3/4" ply wood about 14" wide, put 2 slots in it for a moveable fence, and put 2 toggle clamps on the fence. on the bottom I put a hardwood rail to fit in the slot in the saw table. Make sure the rail is straight & true, and fit's the stot well. The placement of the rail should put the edge of the plywood about 1/8" from the blade.

The jig is limited to 8' boards, but it gives you a good straight edge to start from, and is a lot faster than a jointer (there is no replacement for a jointer when building furniture).

Andy
 
walnut

Use the walnut for the outdoor furniture, you can get about 30 years out of it if you give it a few coats of marine varnish. If you like a light color use waterbase or oil base for a dark finish either way the walnut lasts a long time outdoors.
 
Crogen Island Mills is located between Watertown and Lowville. They can TG your boards. Their number is 315 346 1115. They charge $0.20 a liner foot and a $45.00 set-up fee. They can do up to a 7” board. (time VS money) I have not had any work done there but heard they do very good work. Their mill is water powered. I plan on checking them out when I open my camp in a couple of weeks. Good luck.
 
redprospector....... You don't have a picture of that jig by any chance I have an idea of what it should look like but I'm not sure how the clamps attach in the slots to hold the board to the jig

Thanks
 
redprospector....... You don't have a picture of that jig by any chance I have an idea of what it should look like but I'm not sure how the clamps attach in the slots to hold the board to the jig

Thanks

I'll see if I can dig one up, if not I'll try to draw it for you tomorrow.
A friend borrowed my last jig, and I never got it back.:cry: I'm probably going to have to build another one.

Andy
 
Trax,
Here is a rough drawing of the jig. Sorry it took so long.
Don't laugh too hard, I'm trying to learn to draw on the computer (I can't even draw with a pencil).

Andy
 

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