firewood saws

[freeridekid]

I am looking for a smaller saw to complement a stihl ms 362. Any advice? I have been poking around and looking at the 250, 261, 271, or something in the 40 to 50cc range. Also curious to see if a 251 ever happens, and if the 241 will be available in the U.S.

 

[robsco]

I use a 210, a 362, and a 460. On most trees the 210 sees alot of time. I know it is not the most glamorous of models but it is very light weight, easy to manuever for limbing and cuts quite quickly up to 6-8 inches. You have a great saw in the 362 my recomendation is the lighter the better.

 

[freeridekid]

Is the 210 the same displacement as the 211? both around 35cc correct?

 

[OH_Varmntr]

The 026/260/261 lineup are very popular.

I love my 026. Plenty of power for 18" setup, light as well.

 

[gulity1]

And there off... be careful what you ask and how its asked words may choose your fate ..

But really there are alot of good saws out there in that range Dolmar/Makita have some very quality offerings but also remember dealer support
I am very partial to Stihl although I own almost every brand. Every saw has its place

 

[STLfirewood]

I have a Stihl 261 I use a lot. I had the saw ported by a member on this site. It was the best $250 I have ever spent on a saw. I have cut 75 cords or so with the saw and I have had an issue at all. I cut my firewood 16" and I get around 2/3 of a cord of wood out of each tank. It's a great saw when ported.

Scott

 

[fields_mj]

Since you already own a pro series Stihl, I would recommend an 026/260/261. They are good saws, plenty of power for a 16" or 18" bar, and there's some parts that will interchange with your 362. In fact, I have an 036 and I run a 18" bar with .325 x .063 chain on it (along with a 9 pin rim). My 024 is an older, and slightly smaller version of the 026, and both of those saws use the same bar, chain, and bar nuts. The rims and drive bearings would be the same except that I converted the 036 over to run a standard spline rim so that I could go to the 9 pin. Otherwise they would have both run the same drive bearing and could run the same rim. I use the small saw for limbing mostly, and for a back up. I've found that an 18" bar is about the ideal size for bucking firewood, and when combined with the .325 chain and a 9 pin rim, it's pretty fast. Until I get into wood that's over 24" diameter, I don't see any gains in using my 064. Between the 036 and 024, the trade off seems to be about 4". I've run a few 026 saws, and I've always thought that they were noticeably faster than my 024, so the 026 will probably run just as fast as an 036 in wood that is 6"~8". So not only would you be getting a good saw for limbing, but you'd also have a saw that, in spite of its light weight, can do a good job of keeping up with your bigger saw when it needs to. Having the same B&C on both saws allows me to minimize the number of chains that I need to keep on hand and/or take with me. It also lets me get a lot more use out of my bars because I wear on different parts of the bar when limbing than I do when bucking. So when the bar on the 036 starts getting to the point where it needs changed, I swap it with the one on the 024 and keep on going.

The other option would be to try to go to something even smaller like a MS180, but I'm not sure that you save any more on weight there. There's also the top handle saws which are even lighter, but with those you are pretty much limited to a limbing saw. I wouldn't have to cut a full load of wood with one. Guys do it, but it would make my day a lot longer, and my schedule is full enough the way it is

One saw that I would stay away from is the 025/MS250. I've seen too many people who have problems with them.

Just my 2 bits,
Mark

 

[jimbojango]

be a man, trade your 362 for a 441 and then go buy a 261!

That seems to be the best way in our area, i have 3 more buddies with the exact same setups. We just add a 660 that we use to get the big'un's down.

 

[indiansprings]

I have a Stihl 261 I use a lot. I had the saw ported by a member on this site. It was the best $250 I have ever spent on a saw. I have cut 75 cords or so with the saw and I have had an issue at all. I cut my firewood 16" and I get around 2/3 of a cord of wood out of each tank. It's a great saw when ported.

Scott

I cut firewood just like Scott does for a living, have 2 MS 261's and they are fantastic saws. I have mine set up with 18" .325 set up's. Absolutely love them, prolly going to buy a third, and set it off to be ported as I getting old and worn out, one member who has had this done states it will cut right with a stock 440.
I tried the Husky 346xpne for a year, I'd never go back to a stock one after owning these 261's. They are real fuel sippers, as STLfirewood pointed out. The air filter set up is the best of any saw currently on the market imho. Smooth as silk, the captive bar nuts are nice to have. If I were looking to complement the 362, I'd look no further. I've been using saws for 35 years, imho it is as good as any saw Stihl has put out.
We run the dog snot out of them 5-6 hours a day, somedays more. People can dog them over weighing 9 oz more than some of the competitive saws, but they are built rock solid, just like the old 028/038 tyoe saws.

 

[bert0168]

In fact, I have an 036 and I run a 18" bar with .325 x .063 chain on it (along with a 9 pin rim). My 024 is an older, and slightly smaller version of the 026, and both of those saws use the same bar, chain, and bar nuts. The rims and drive bearings would be the same except that I converted the 036 over to run a standard spline rim so that I could go to the 9 pin. Otherwise they would have both run the same drive bearing and could run the same rim. I use the small saw for limbing mostly, and for a back up. I've found that an 18" bar is about the ideal size for bucking firewood, and when combined with the .325 chain and a 9 pin rim, it's pretty fast. Until I get into wood that's over 24" diameter, I don't see any gains in using my 064. Between the 036 and 024, the trade off seems to be about 4". I've run a few 026 saws, and I've always thought that they were noticeably faster than my 024, so the 026 will probably run just as fast as an 036 in wood that is 6"~8". So not only would you be getting a good saw for limbing, but you'd also have a saw that, in spite of its light weight, can do a good job of keeping up with your bigger saw when it needs to. Having the same B&C on both saws allows me to minimize the number of chains that I need to keep on hand and/or take with me. It also lets me get a lot more use out of my bars because I wear on different parts of the bar when limbing than I do when bucking. So when the bar on the 036 starts getting to the point where it needs changed, I swap it with the one on the 024 and keep on going.

Ok, I sort of understand this which leads me to a question.

I have the 362 and run 2 different bars, 24 (actually called a 25" I think) and 18". I'm not sure on the chains but the whole set up was purchease at the same time through a dealer. The saw dogs with the 24" and prefers to wear the 18. I know the longer bar is at the top end of what Stihl recommends.

Should I look into changing the spline/rim/sprocket for the different bars to get better performance/life out of the saw with the bigger bar?

Can someone edjumicate me on sprockets?

 

[genesis5521]

I am looking for a smaller saw to complement a stihl ms 362. Any advice? I have been poking around and looking at the 250, 261, 271, or something in the 40 to 50cc range. Also curious to see if a 251 ever happens, and if the 241 will be available in the U.S.

For 7 years, I've been cutting 10 cords a year with a little Stihl MS170 with a 14" bar. Cut more than a few 24"+ trees with it. It's been reliable as dirt and super light. A pure pleasure to use. Around $180 brand new. Try one. I think you'll like it. I just bought a brand new Stihl MS290 Farm Boss to compliment the little 170.

Don <><

 

[SPDRMNKY]

i've got a 211, 261, 361, and some others...get the most trigger time on the 211...good little saw

guess it depends on what you're looking for

the 261 is my lightsaber...thinning medium sized trees and big limbs...16" b/c...smooth...great saw

the 211 is my workhorse...limbing, brushing, small bucking...14" b/c...no speed demon, but easier on the arms, and a pleasure to run all day

used to run even smaller saws (170) for limbing, but ran into issues with filtration

 

[TXTreeSurgeon]

I have a Stihl 261 I use a lot. I had the saw ported by a member on this site. It was the best $250 I have ever spent on a saw. I have cut 75 cords or so with the saw and I have had an issue at all. I cut my firewood 16" and I get around 2/3 of a cord of wood out of each tank. It's a great saw when ported.

Scott

What!?!? I have heard that the 261 is good on gas, but that has to be the best fuel efficiency I have ever heard of. Depending on the size and conditions of the tree, it takes me 1/2 gallon to 1 gallon of fuel to cut a cord of wood with 362. I ain't saying you haven't done it... I'm just saying that I have to buy a 261 if that is the kind of efficiency people normally get out of a ported 261. Is the strato port still intact on your saw?

 

[Beaver eager]

Depends what you want it for. I for one have another saw with me as a backup saw and I want it to be able to do the same job as my main saw if need be. I do hardwoods (10"-24" or so) for firewood and not a ton of limb work required. If I was to do alot of limb work such as softwoods or pruning to go along with felling I'd probably want a smaller saw and might go with a MS250 or even a pro ms261 (or husky equivalent) if I was doing it all day every day.

 

[ccarpen4753]

I use a ms250 primarily and like the weight, but parts/bars/and chains arent interchangeable as with other stihl models like the 026/260. Id find one that interchanges with your current saw.

 

[tommyus4]

My first post: I actually started reading this site because I had the reverse problem as you. I had/have 250 and beat the crap out if it using it way more for bigger things. I wanted something to compliment it. Thus I chose the 352. My purpose was to save my beloved 250.

It is GREAT to put the heavier saw down and use the 250 for what it was intended for. I like it more and still use it more than I thought I would.

Other people here have forgotten more about chainsaws than I will ever know so read as much as you can. But what I learned from reading this site and a tad of common sense was that my 3hp, 10 lb., 250 would work great with 352.

 

[Whitespider]

This subject has been hashed-over a bunch of times, just in the time I've been a member (not complaining, we can hash-over it as much as y'all like). The general consensus (at least the way I've read it) is a 50cc class saw, with the Stihl 026/260/261 being the most often recommended as a general-purpose firewood saw for a guy that cuts for himself... or non-commercially. But I may be a bit bias on how I "read" it... I bought my 026 in 1991-92, after that I slowly sold-off all my others, and it's the only saw I have now. I run two bars, 16-inch and 20-inch, .325 chain. Sure, there are times when a greater or lesser saw would be handy... but it's just flat hard to knock a saw that weighs 10 Lbs and will pull a 20-inch bar (I think the weight increased on the MS 260/261 series, making them a bit less desirable than the 026 in my mind).

 

[kodiak]

Ms250

My first post: I actually started reading this site because I had the reverse problem as you. I had/have 250 and beat the crap out if it using it way more for bigger things. I wanted something to compliment it. Thus I chose the 352. My purpose was to save my beloved 250.

It is GREAT to put the heavier saw down and use the 250 for what it was intended for. I like it more and still use it more than I thought I would.

Other people here have forgotten more about chainsaws than I will ever know so read as much as you can. But what I learned from reading this site and a tad of common sense was that my 3hp, 10 lb., 250 would work great with 352.

I started with the MS250 (16" bar) about 4 years ago and last year added the MS391 (20" bar). With these options, I still go for the 250 for all of the limbing and whatever bucking it'll handle for that particular tree. In fact, if the tree is say 12" or smaller I'll use the 250 for the whole thing.

In summary, based on the abuse I've put the 250 through I'd highly recommend it. Other than a new plug, filter and periodic cleaning, it has not required any maintenance.

 

[Hedgerow]

I cut firewood just like Scott does for a living, have 2 MS 261's and they are fantastic saws. I have mine set up with 18" .325 set up's. Absolutely love them, prolly going to buy a third, and set it off to be ported as I getting old and worn out, one member who has had this done states it will cut right with a stock 440.
I tried the Husky 346xpne for a year, I'd never go back to a stock one after owning these 261's. They are real fuel sippers, as STLfirewood pointed out. The air filter set up is the best of any saw currently on the market imho. Smooth as silk, the captive bar nuts are nice to have. If I were looking to complement the 362, I'd look no further. I've been using saws for 35 years, imho it is as good as any saw Stihl has put out.
We run the dog snot out of them 5-6 hours a day, somedays more. People can dog them over weighing 9 oz more than some of the competitive saws, but they are built rock solid, just like the old 028/038 tyoe saws.

Hey, why don't you pick up a 211 next time you're at the dealer. Use the snot out of it, and let me know how it holds up... I don't know why, but I fondel that saw every time I'm in the saw shop, but just can't bring myself to take it home... :msp_sneaky:
It's the wrong color... :msp_biggrin:

 

[Wolfcsm]

Ok, I sort of understand this which leads me to a question.

I have the 362 and run 2 different bars, 24 (actually called a 25" I think) and 18". I'm not sure on the chains but the whole set up was purchease at the same time through a dealer. The saw dogs with the 24" and prefers to wear the 18. I know the longer bar is at the top end of what Stihl recommends.

Should I look into changing the spline/rim/sprocket for the different bars to get better performance/life out of the saw with the bigger bar?

Can someone edjumicate me on sprockets?

Think of sprockets as gearing for the saw. the higher the number of teeth - the higher the chain speed. But the lower the torque.

The oppposite is also true. The lower the number of teeth - the lower the chain speed and the higher the torque.

Most here will tell you that rim sprockets are cheep. Get different ones and try them. See what combination of chain speed and torque works best for you.

Hal