Firewood Trying Strategy

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ttgr

New Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2018
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Location
nc
We had to have a very large white oak taken down back in mid-October. The tree was 90 to 100 feet tall. We had to have it taken down due to the fact that it was leaning badly due to the hurricanes that came thru our area. I would say that that the tree was very healthy. Point being, the timing on this with respect to getting good seasoned wood for burning is not ideal. However, we did not have much choice here when to take it down due to the risk of damaging other things (well cap, other trees, power lines, etc) on our property.

Right now, I have been able to split 7 of the large large logs. They ranged from roughly 8 inches to 12 inches round and roughly 12 to 18 inches long. I split all of them with wedges and a sledge. It worked relatively well considering that I have never done it before and my frame is not all that beefy. :) I have stacked all of that split wood in our garage on a 6 foot long / 5 foot high rack made with 2x4s. None of the wood is touching the garage floor and it is in the corner of the garage with as much space as I can give it.

Right now I have 15 very large logs that I cannot split with the wedge as they are simply not dry enough. They are all at least 14 inches round up to 25 inches round and are all about 12 to 18 inches long. Many of them have some serious knots in them as well. I have placed 6 of them on 3 4x4 foot racks made out of 2x4s outside and stacked some smaller odd logs on top of them. The placement of the racks is about as good as I can find on my property which is unfortunately next to a fence so the air flow is less than ideal. The racks run north to south so that the ends of the logs are east and west. They get a fair amount of sunlight considering it is mid-November. I have covered this with a 10x20 foot tarp.

The remainder of the logs are placed on a large 10x20 foot tarp so they are not touching the ground. I have covered them with another 10x20 foot tarp as well. These are on the other side of the fence.

This really the only level place I have on the property where I can keep all of these logs long term for drying. Also, this is also the best place in terms of not having tons of leaves falling all over the wood. We probably have at least another 3 weeks of the trees shedding leaves.

One other then that I am up against here is that we are looking at having several weeks of wetter than normal weather conditions, humidity levels being well over 80%, and little sunshine. Generally speaking, our winters are very humid. I would say our average humidity for late Fall and Winter is over 70%.

Right now, I am questioning my strategy here of keeping all of the large un-split logs covered to protect them from the rain. My concern is how much water is going to be gathering on the tarps if I leave them uncovered. I do plan to try and split some of them again in the coming weeks as I know that smaller pieces will dry out faster than large ones. In the meantime, I am wondering if I should keep them uncovered on the tarp or buy some wooden pallets to keep them off the ground and uncovered.

Any opinions or ideas would be appreciated.
 
The rounds you didn't split aren't going to dry and season very much until you split them. In general covering wood completely with a tarp will trap moisture and keep the wood from ever drying out. If you are going to cover it, cover the top only, so the sides can still get airflow.
 
Welcome to the forum.

As was said above covering both top and bottom will not let moisture out and wood will rot whether than dry.

Also look up some splitting techniques. A sledge and wedge is about the hardest most labor intense way to split. White oak crotches can be almost impossible to split by hand. For the straight grained stuff take a maul or splitting axe and work around the outside of the log. The shorter the log is the easier it will split.

Off the ground with air flow is the key to drying firewood. Stack it on pallets and let the air flow thru. Only cover the top of the wood in the winter, but the cover really isn't necessarily. White Oak takes 2 years to dry in my area, about an hour north of Ashville.
 
Snow and rain will make the outside wet and sloppy. It sucks. The point is to get the inside dry, and that won't happen if the wood is too "protected". Sun and wind are your friends, and the outside moisture on a log, while miserable, will go away pretty quickly when brought inside.
 
Only cover the top of the pile. Think of a roof, not a tarp. Anything you lay on the pile to keep the rain or snow off, helps. Roofing Tin, rubber conveyor belting, plywood sheets.. anything to shed the water helps. I know wing and rain are your friends but I don’t want a pile running through my backyard because it’s ideal sun and wind exposure. I place my pile on the back edge of my property and just wait another year.

As for splitting, work the outsides, then in. Everyone I see starting out wants to bust that big one in half, then half again. That’s the strongest part of the piece. Just shave pieces off the outside first. The fiskars x27 is a fine piece of splitting equipment for someone of smaller stature. There are videos on the internet of techniques where you roll your wrists to get more splitting action, just work on hitting your mark, and you won’t have too many problems.

Oh yeah. Don’t drive splitting wedges with any of the splitting axes. There not designed for those type of impacts.
 
Thanks for the replies. I think I may reconsider using the tarps for the large remaining logs and get some pallets to place them on.

I definitely understand that the best case scenario is to get the logs split and stacked as quickly as possible. That means I have to work on my splitting technique. I have a cone wedge, two "standard" wedges, and a large splitting maul that does have a sledge side on it which is designed to be used as sledge hammer. I did use these to split the first set of logs and it worked relatively well considering I'm a complete newbie. So far I am finding that starting close to the center is not ideal and starting at the edges yields better results. Tapping in the wedges instead of taking big swings seems to work better. All the logs have a lot of knots in them and sometimes it is difficult to find where to start.
 
I would not bother with tarps or pallets for the rounds. Lay the rounds on their side (don't stand them on end). Split them and stack them on pallets is fine. If they get enough sun and breeze you should be good to go next year. Here in NC firewood seasons quick from the intense summer sun, if you are burning in an EPA woodstove you may need a second year to season. What part of NC are you in? I'm just North Of Charlotte.
 
i wouldn't cover any of it till mid summer. I actually dont cover any of mine. I do bring it into my shed or garage in late September the year i plan to burn it. to me it seems to dry better getting rained on for a while. especially if it was a live tree. plus it most likely will get moldy if covered when its green. Let it air out for a while. I just read you put the wood in your garage already. That is going to be counterproductive as far as drying, in my opinion.
 
A seasoned firewood veteran friend of mine brings his second year wood into his barn before transport to the house. He runs a fan on the stacks in his barn to get rid of rain and snow moisture. It works really well for him.
 
Any time I've noodled (which would be rarely since I avoid it unless I just can't), I ended up with odd shaped splits next to the noodle surface. Most times really odd shaped - like, twisted drastically tapered wedges. The grain that the splitting follows never lines up with my noodle cut.

Which doesn't really end up mattering much, it will still burn good. But might bug some people....
 
Noodling is basically splitting with the chainsaw.
Think about it this way:
When you fell a tree you make cuts near parallel to the ground and then the tree goes from vertical to horizontal also basically parallel to the ground. Assuming you are cutting with a 20" bar and cutting 18" firewood. Now you start working up the tree staring at the bottom making vertical cuts across the grain in the now horizontal tree every 18". This is called bucking. Now if you have a round too big to lift, say an 18" wide "wheel" that is 30" diameter. Assuming the tree is basically still laying together where it fell in order to noodle you still hold the saw parallel to the ground just like bucking but you turn 90 degrees so that the tip of the bar is now pointing towards the top of the tree. Your 20" bar should now stick out 2" of the 18" log. As soon as you penetrate the bark you will know while it is called noodling. Keep cutting through the diameter of the round until it falls in half. If you still can't manage the halls you just cut you can make a second noodling cut to quarter the round.

If you flip the round on its end and try to cut the round in half that way (like putting a notch to start you wedge in) this cut is called ripping and is the type of cut used in milling. However a chainsaw is not designed to cut this way and will cut much slower than a bucking or noodle cut.
YouTube firewood noodling if we aren't explaining so you understand it well.
 
One more. Once I noodles the block I stood it up and split it into firewood size with a 4 pound ax. I do not separate the pieces, just start splitting from one end and the block holds all the pieces together as you go.
 
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