First Chainsaw - Need Help Deciding

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Hey guys do I just tried 391 a guy I work with has and it did not impress me at all. I think the chain was slightly dull but there was a bit of binding going on with this little 8 inch tree and the thing bogged out. Needless to say I think I want more power then that thing puts out for sure. Oh and I live in Canada if that makes a difference

A dull chain will make any saw seem robbed for power. Even my ms880 acts like its a ms180 after it hits a rock. There is something to be said for buying new, but I picked up a 660 from my dealer for $500 and I've cut probably 30 facecords with no problems.

Best of luck.
 
Only if you start pricing out Husqvarna's XP line or the pro Jonsereds. Stihl and Dolmar are pretty comparable price-wise to the US. Whereabouts in Alberta are you?

I'm in the red deer area. It's mostly going to get used for hunting, clearing trails, making firewood. And in the longer run if I end up getting a treed acreage for maintenance use.
 
I looked on ebay and after shipping an customs from the states it doesn't seem to make a big difference. Plus if 20 bucks difference keeps a dealer happy and another sale for the month I can fork out another 20 bucks especially when it needs to come in for work if it ever does.
 
Hey guys do I just tried 391 a guy I work with has and it did not impress me at all. I think the chain was slightly dull but there was a bit of binding going on with this little 8 inch tree and the thing bogged out. Needless to say I think I want more power then that thing puts out for sure. Oh and I live in Canada if that makes a difference

Sorry, but you can't buy your self out of a bind, any saw will bog down if the tree decides to sit down on your bar. You need to learn to avoid it and get wedges to prevent it - and that's much cheaper than trying to get bigger saws!

If you're serious about getting more power though you should be looking at Stihl 441 (the C-M seems popular here at AS)or the 460, Husqvarna 372, 576 (try the AT, it's Husky speak for C-M in a Stihl!) or the 385 if it's still available, Jonsered 2171/2172, 2186 or the Dolmar/Makita 7300/7301, 7900/7901.

But then you've definitely left consumer grade saws behind you - and consumer grade prices too! Wedges are way cheaper! :msp_thumbup:
 
Also my echo shindaiwa dealer close to me has a brand new discontinued shindaiwa 490 for 450 bucks. This leaves me lots of money for tools and oil afterwards. I've looking at prices for a 70cc class and I don't think I could swing that unless I bought it used. For something like a chainsaw I'm not sure if I'm confident enough in that with all the stories I've heard of buying a used saw.
 
Also my echo shindaiwa dealer close to me has a brand new discontinued shindaiwa 490 for 450 bucks. This leaves me lots of money for tools and oil afterwards. I've looking at prices for a 70cc class and I don't think I could swing that unless I bought it used. For something like a chainsaw I'm not sure if I'm confident enough in that with all the stories I've heard of buying a used saw.

My son's 70cc saw was a Christmas gift to a man from his wife. It sat in his garage for 5 yrs. Was only used to lop off some backyard tree limbs. $200 buy.
 
I really don't think you need a 70cc saw. It would be nice if you could afford it. A good MS361/362 would make a good firewood/farm saw. I had a 361 for a few years and loved the light weight. It made good power also. I could use that saw for pretty much anything. Alot of guys don't like the 362 but I'm the exception. A muffler modded 362 is a beat of a 60cc saw. I hear these new Husky triple 5's are great saws too.

I think anything Stihl or Husky in 60cc would do you good. Can't rule out the Makita 6401 either but I just don't like the blue color. :hmm3grin2orange: I'd get the Dolmar 6400, which is the same saw.
 
Sorry, but you seem to be on the wrong track, with the models you are shortlisting....:givebeer:

Take a look at the 365/2165/2166 or the Dolmar/Makita 6400/6401. That will take you much closer to true pro saws, without too much price premium.

Also look at the 60cc Husky 555, as a lighter alternative.

This is a good recommendation, great actually, Never have i seen Niko plug the 365. Im a little bruised from falling out of my chair. Kidding aside, for the money the Husky-Jred and Dolmar-Makita 65 and 64cc offerings are hard to beat.
 
I looked on ebay and after shipping an customs from the states it doesn't seem to make a big difference. Plus if 20 bucks difference keeps a dealer happy and another sale for the month I can fork out another 20 bucks especially when it needs to come in for work if it ever does.

Yep, buy from a local dealer unless the price difference is just too large! :msp_thumbsup:
 
This is a good recommendation, great actually, Never have i seen Niko plug the 365. Im a little bruised from falling out of my chair. Kidding aside, for the money the Husky-Jred and Dolmar-Makita 65 and 64cc offerings are hard to beat.

Right, I am not a big fan of those saws - but they are quality saws that make sence in this case, where price is a factor.
 
I foun two used 365's one for 485 and another for 300 and then I found a 372 for 500 bucks with about 40hrs on it. Are these worth lookin into?
 
Ok, so I'm getting a chainsaw for myself and I know I want something more in the mid size range I suppose 55-70cc probably closer to 60-70.

I have no idea why you'd want a 70 cc saw, but that's up to you.

I've got over 70 saws and have been cutting hardwood for 50 years. Older pro-type saws were - for the most part - rugged but slow. Many saws from the 70s-80s were rugged and pretty fast. Now? I'm no expert but CAN comment on a few new ones I've bought in the past few years.

My absolute best 50 cc range saw is my Makita/Dolmar DCS510. It has been an amazing saw for it's size and it uses full profle 3/8" chain which I like. It's a 51 cc saw and will easily outcut my 105 cc Remington-Mall saw that weighs near 40 lbs. I've used it now two full springs, summers, and now - this fall. It's been flawless. I hate to say it - but with a sharp chain it will keep right up with my old Stihl 041 Super that is 72 ccs.

My favorite in a little bigger size is my Deere(EFCO) CS56. It has true professional design. Much more metal in it then any Sthil saws in the 56 cc range. Last year, they could be found new for $300 each if you shopped around when John Deere stopped selling the EFCOs. In fact I bought a pair of them from a Dealer in Georgia, with 20" bars and two chains each - for $290 each, brand new.

My favorite "big" saw is my 64 cc. Makita/Dolmar DCS6401. It will keep right up with my Stihl 045 Super that has 87 ccs. when using a 20" bar. Now -I keep a 32" bar on the 045 and only use it for huge trees or stumps. Will the Makita/Dolmar last as long as the Stihl 045 has? I guess I'll never know. I've had that 045 for approx. 25 years. I'm 60 years old. Chances are I won't get to cut wood another 25 years to see how this Makita/Dolmar holds up. But, so far it's been great and it has the decompression valve that the Stihl does not (but really needs). The only thing I do not like about it is the rim-sprocket setup. Oddly, my little 51 cc Makita/Dolmar does have a full sprocket.

Here's a comparison somebody (not me) wrote up a while back comparing the 51 cc Deere/EFCO to a Sthil MS290. Some of it is just hyberbole and doesn't mean a lot, but also some of it is relevant.
It also seems the guy is wrong about the Sthil having a plastic crankcase. I believe all Stihl saws have metal crankcases, but they are usually hidden by plastic around them. Now, Husqvarna DOES have plastic crankcases in many saws.


Both have 4.1 horsepower. Deere Efco CS56 (EFCO 156) versus Stihl MS290

John Deere has the best power-to-weight ratio in its class of all chainsaws.

John Deere has a magnesium crankcase, while the Stihl does not. The Stihl crankcase is made of molded plastic. (NOT TRUE AS FAR AS I KNOW!)

John Deere has a magnesium clutch cover, while the Stihl does not. The John Deere having both a magnesium crankcase and a magnesium cover makes the John Deere more durable and a longer life than plastic crankcases.

John Deere has a three-piece forged crankshaft and forged connecting rod for durability and strength, while the Stihl does not.

John Deere has a decompression valve, while the Stihl does not.

John Deere has a closed transfer port, while the Stihl does not. The John Deere closed transfer port is largely responsible for its progressive torque and superb power. The Stihl has an open port system.

John Deere has a wafered connecting rod, while the Stihl does not. The wafered connecting rod promotes lubrication and heat dissipation of bearings.

John Deere has a primer bulb for quick starting, while the Stihl does not.

Both have a no oil at idle. This feature reduces oil consumption and keeps the environment cleaner.

John Deere has an aluminum front handle, while the Stihl does not.

John Deere has a 2 year warranty with a lifetime on ignition, while the Stihl has a one year warranty.
 
I have a 2165 and enjoy using it. It is smooth, easy to start, noodles well and has plenty of power. I have cut up to 36" hardwood with mine and noodled up the blocks I cut. I also have a 670 champ that I run side by side with it and I don't notice much difference in power between the saws. I think the 2165/365 saws have plenty of power for most parttime users and definitely have a better purchase price for those of us who use them for a hobby.
 

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