First Porting Attempt MS 260

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bower4311

bower4311

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That's what craftsman part saws and your neighbor's weedeater's are for! I think everyone who tries this screws up at some point. If you don't play, you can't have any fun......I give you credit for the stones to make your first grind a 260.....:dunno:

Haha well it's still cheaper than most.
 
cmarti

cmarti

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Jan 3, 2009
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Ohio
There no need to start with a junk saw. .

For me there was. I even had some background in autobody and paint, but my technique, tool selection, understanding and results have grown in only the 8 I have done. Simple things like how you secure the jug are experiments for me. I should have researched more, but I learn bettter hands on.:dunno:

Heck I get enough grief from our household accountant, I can't risk expensive saws:chatter::msp_biggrin:
Good luck OP, and have fun with it!
 
bower4311

bower4311

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For me there was. I even had some background in autobody and paint, but my technique, tool selection, understanding and results have grown in only the 8 I have done. Simple things like how you secure the jug are experiments for me. I should have researched more, but I learn bettter hands on.:dunno:

Heck I get enough grief from our household accountant, I can't risk expensive saws:chatter::msp_biggrin:
Good luck OP, and have fun with it!

Thank you and I am. I didn't have the jug secured properly. I guess I remember reading someone saying that they don't like it strapped down in any way. Well, I learned that doesn't work for me pretty fast.
 
Abflyboy

Abflyboy

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SW Idaho
I have a 4" long 1/4" carbide burr that I use in a drill to keep it slow for first material removal. I haven't ported anywhere near as many saws as Mastermind or the others who do it for a living, but my first one was a Stihl 038 super that I converted to a Magnum and ported the new cylinder.

It took a while . . . several days, I think.

Anyway, I use a variable speed dremel with the flex shaft attachment for my porting and keep the speed down. And I use primarily sanding rolls. They are slower and easier to control. They don't last very long but are cheap. I go though about ten or so on a port job.

The last saw I ported was my MS440. Took 6 hours from start of the job to cutting wood. I am sure Mastermind or Brad could have had it done in a couple hours. :msp_thumbup:

It will come to you. And I wouldn't be afraid to run that cylinder from what I see in your pics.

But it would be truly awesome to let Randy do his thing on it too . . .
 
bower4311

bower4311

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Joined
Mar 1, 2011
Messages
484
Location
Rochester, NY
I have a 4" long 1/4" carbide burr that I use in a drill to keep it slow for first material removal. I haven't ported anywhere near as many saws as Mastermind or the others who do it for a living, but my first one was a Stihl 038 super that I converted to a Magnum and ported the new cylinder.

It took a while . . . several days, I think.

Anyway, I use a variable speed dremel with the flex shaft attachment for my porting and keep the speed down. And I use primarily sanding rolls. They are slower and easier to control. They don't last very long but are cheap. I go though about ten or so on a port job.

The last saw I ported was my MS440. Took 6 hours from start of the job to cutting wood. I am sure Mastermind or Brad could have had it done in a couple hours. :msp_thumbup:

It will come to you. And I wouldn't be afraid to run that cylinder from what I see in your pics.

But it would be truly awesome to let Randy do his thing on it too . . .

Fortunately it's in the mail. I'm excited to see what it looks like (also how it runs but I don't want to brag). I got lucky, and thankful someone like Mastermind was willing to help me out.
 
Moparmyway

Moparmyway

Its just a saw
Joined
Dec 2, 2012
Messages
2,481
I have a 4" long 1/4" carbide burr that I use in a drill to keep it slow for first material removal. I haven't ported anywhere near as many saws as Mastermind or the others who do it for a living, but my first one was a Stihl 038 super that I converted to a Magnum and ported the new cylinder.

It took a while . . . several days, I think.

Anyway, I use a variable speed dremel with the flex shaft attachment for my porting and keep the speed down. And I use primarily sanding rolls. They are slower and easier to control. They don't last very long but are cheap. I go though about ten or so on a port job.

The last saw I ported was my MS440. Took 6 hours from start of the job to cutting wood. I am sure Mastermind or Brad could have had it done in a couple hours. :msp_thumbup:

It will come to you. And I wouldn't be afraid to run that cylinder from what I see in your pics.

But it would be truly awesome to let Randy do his thing on it too . . .

Do you have any picture you can post up ??
 
Mastermind

Mastermind

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Nov 21, 2009
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36,449
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Tennessee
Wow, thank you.

Again, words can't express how grateful I am for all of this.

Adam

Be sure you use a good sealer. Back when I first started this stuff I found a Permatex fuel resistant sealer at a Napa store. I use Loctite 518 these days but it's a little pricy for just one job. I've heard that the copper stuff works too.
 
bower4311

bower4311

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Joined
Mar 1, 2011
Messages
484
Location
Rochester, NY
Be sure you use a good sealer. Back when I first started this stuff I found a Permatex fuel resistant sealer at a Napa store. I use Loctite 518 these days but it's a little pricy for just one job. I've heard that the copper stuff works too.

Will do, my dad may have 518, I'll have to check.
 

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