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According to the Huskvarna 2005 and 2006 catalogs, Husky recommends bar lengths of 16" to 24" for the 359 E-TECH saw. The saw is listed as a 'commercial grade' saw. A 20" bar falls in the middle range, meaning it is the ideal choice of bar length for that particular saw.

The Husky 359 is the direct competitor to the Stihl MS361, with both coming in at 59cc & 3.6 cu in. According to the specs the Stihl has slightly more hosepower (.5 bhp) and slightly more weight (.5 lb). The 359 Husky lists around $440, the Stihl MS361 is around $589. You do the math.

Stihl seems to be (for whatsoever reason) more conservative in their listed specs for bar lengths, with the MS361 range listed as from 16" to 20", with 20" the 'recommended' length for the MS361. Perhaps that is why Stihl fans appear so fearful of longer bars.
 
coveredinsap said:
According to the Huskvarna 2005 and 2006 catalogs, Husky recommends bar lengths of 16" to 24" for the 359 E-TECH saw. The saw is listed as a 'commercial grade' saw. A 20" bar falls in the middle range, meaning it is the ideal choice of bar length for that particular saw.

The Husky 359 is the direct competitor to the Stihl MS361, with both coming in at 59cc & 3.6 cu in. According to the specs the Stihl has slightly more hosepower (.5 bhp) and slightly more weight (.5 lb). The 359 Husky lists around $440, the Stihl MS361 is around $589. You do the math.

Stihl seems to be (for whatsoever reason) more conservative in their listed specs for bar lengths, with the MS361 range listed as from 16" to 20", with 20" the 'recommended' length for the MS361. Perhaps that is why Stihl fans appear so fearful of longer bars.


If you'd actually go use both of these saw, or even one of them, you'd be a lot better prepared to compare them... Paper specs are not the way to judge a saw... and recommended bar lengths have much more to do with kickback certification than reality.
 
Rspike said:
My questions is ............ how does a dealer know if you bought the saw on-line or from another state , different dealer , was your brothers saw , christmas gift ... ect ...ect... ?? Is the dealer judge and jury and the all mighty to allow you in there shop? I'm glad car/truck dealers dont think the way a lot of chainsaw dealers do. I had a garden tractor that had a probelm , i took it to a shop that was not the one that sold me the mower , they didnt play all mighty and ask were i bought it , yada , yada . So why is the chainsaw dealer so different ?


The dealer/manufacturer might know it was bought out of area from the serial number, but that doesn't matter. The consumer doesn't break any rules by buying on the internet or mail order or whatever - the selling dealer did. If the owner has proof of purchase from a dealer, then the warranty still holds unless the terms of the warranty spell out that it doesn't, which in Stihl it doesn't. Even if the saw was registered in another name, the warranty still hold for the period...
 
If you'd actually go use both of these saw, or even one of them, you'd be a lot better prepared to compare them... Paper specs are not the way to judge a saw... and recommended bar lengths have much more to do with kickback certification than reality.

Yes, by all means...use some arbitrary non-measureable method to determine a saws potential instead.

Funny how that works for Stihl aficionados but not for Husqvarna's such as the 455 Rancher
 
coveredinsap said:
Yes, by all means...use some arbitrary non-measureable method to determine a saws potential instead.

Funny how that works for Stihl aficionados but not for Husqvarna's such as the 455 Rancher


Back to your nutty Stihl bashing again... ??? but now you're making even less sense.
 
ShoerFast said:
As I had never even considered ever buying a Husky here, for the pure goose egg , notta dealer suport, bar the price, your saying that the compairson would be with the 359 vs an MS-361 then?

guess a point I wished to make is that the 2 are close (310 -359)to the same price, (Balieys has a 359 for sale for 419.00 with 20" BnC)but given any money differance, it would be very hard to beat the overall support you would get from a Stihl product! ,,,, maybe thats part of the price differance?

Kevin

BTW, I like the hell out of my 310 , it paid for it's self by 10X , but would replace it with a 361 , faster then my hat could hit the ground.
I got ZILCH from two of my local Stihl dealers..


Unless an attitude and arrogance count as good service.

But I found a dandy Husqvarna dealer.:cheers:
 
Lakeside53 said:
If you'd actually go use both of these saw, or even one of them, you'd be a lot better prepared to compare them... Paper specs are not the way to judge a saw... and recommended bar lengths have much more to do with kickback certification than reality.

Lakeside 543, I was leaning toward a 20" bar. Are the longer bars worse about kickback than the shorter ones. The 20" shouldn't be a problem should it?

I'm probably going to order a Husqvarna 359 saw tomorrow from Wise Generators & Power Equip. in Schaumburg Illinois. The cost is 405.99 + 5.00 packaging and no shipping. It comes with 3 chisel chains and a 20" laminated bar. For 10.00 more I can get a solid bar. The solid bar is worth the extra 10.00 isn't it?

I'm choosing the Husqvarna mainly because of price and have nothing against a Sthil. I'm ordering online because I'm capable of doing my own wrenching.
I want to thank everybody for their input and welcome any more advice.

Danny
 
danrclem said:
Lakeside 543, I was leaning toward a 20" bar. Are the longer bars worse about kickback than the shorter ones. The 20" shouldn't be a problem should it?

I'm probably going to order a Husqvarna 359 saw tomorrow from Wise Generators & Power Equip. in Schaumburg Illinois. The cost is 405.99 + 5.00 packaging and no shipping. It comes with 3 chisel chains and a 20" laminated bar. For 10.00 more I can get a solid bar. The solid bar is worth the extra 10.00 isn't it?

I'm choosing the Husqvarna mainly because of price and have nothing against a Sthil. I'm ordering online because I'm capable of doing my own wrenching.
I want to thank everybody for their input and welcome any more advice.

Danny


Yes, if weight is not an issue, get the solid bar for $10. I use them, but also use laminated bars with no probems. As for bar length and kickback, it's mainly an operator issue... yes, there are small differences depending on bar length (and several threads last year raging both sides of that argument) but nothing that you should be worried about if you practice good technique.
 
either the 361 ,the 359 or for that matter the 036 will; pull; a sharp 20 chain thru
most any hardwood ive seen fairly easy,cured or not wood. if it wont, something is wrong with the saw or chain.
 

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