Flywheel removal, how do you do it?

[Saw Dr.]

If you own 50+ saws buying the right tool can get expensive, Just sayin :msp_smile:

Unless the flywheel you ruin is one, say, from an Echo 1001 that is more rare than a hens tooth. If one can ever be found, it will surely be more expensive than a dozen pullers.

I used to improvise on pullers, but now I just get the right tool. I see 20-35 different machines A DAY when I am at the shop. It is not worth taking chances with customer machines. I always carry a little canvas bag of clutch, flywheel, and carb tools back and forth to the shop so I don't have to buy two of each.

 

[machinisttx]

Depends on the saw. I prefer to use a puller when there are threaded holes and have made pullers to fit in some cases.
I've also used the hammer method but I use a wooden mallet so as not to damage the threads.

I pulled the recoil off today before leaving work to see if there were threaded holes. I intended to make a puller if there were, but unfortunately not. The end of the crank doesn't even have a center drilled in it. :msp_confused: I guess when I tear it down I'll drill one myself on one of the mills at work.

Squirting penetrating oil on the shaft after removing the nut and allowing it to sit a few minutes is a big help

A 50/50 mix of ATF and denatured alcohol works better than kroil as a penetrating oil.

 

[Chris-PA]

Small ballpeen hammer and a round slug of brass to set on the nut.

 

[boxygen]

So, this thread and others gave me the confidence to do my first flywheel removal. I am freshening up a few of my saws. I was glad to see so many people were endorsing the hammer approach. I tried the vice grip and double vice grip approach. No good. I tried screw drivers. No good. I tapped, I tapped harder, I struck. No dice. I made a simple puller out of 3/16 steel and put long screws into the pawl holes and a bolt sharpened to a point on the crank. I tightened it up slowly, I tapped the center nut, I tapped the flywheel. TIghtened some more and tapped some more. I gave up last night and put some Kroil on it overnight with the pressure of the puller still on it. Im worried if I do anything more I will damage the threads on the flywheel, they are only aluminum. In fact, in a moment of haste, I damaged the threads on the crank. :bang: I knew better. I can fix it, if I can get the flywheel off. By the way I chose my worst saw to try this on, a 268xp. Id like to get a die for the threads to clean them up. Does anyone know the thread size? I assume the next phase is heat if the Kroil hasnt worked its magic by the time I get home tonight? Any tips for this? Is a heat gun the way to go? Aparently I chose the flywheel from hell to pull my first one. :msp_mad:

 

[pioneerguy600]

So, this thread and others gave me the confidence to do my first flywheel removal. I am freshening up a few of my saws. I was glad to see so many people were endorsing the hammer approach. I tried the vice grip and double vice grip approach. No good. I tried screw drivers. No good. I tapped, I tapped harder, I struck. No dice. I made a simple puller out of 3/16 steel and put long screws into the pawl holes and a bolt sharpened to a point on the crank. I tightened it up slowly, I tapped the center nut, I tapped the flywheel. TIghtened some more and tapped some more. I gave up last night and put some Kroil on it overnight with the pressure of the puller still on it. Im worried if I do anything more I will damage the threads on the flywheel, they are only aluminum. In fact, in a moment of haste, I damaged the threads on the crank. :bang: I knew better. I can fix it, if I can get the flywheel off. By the way I chose my worst saw to try this on, a 268xp. Id like to get a die for the threads to clean them up. Does anyone know the thread size? I assume the next phase is heat if the Kroil hasnt worked its magic by the time I get home tonight? Any tips for this? Is a heat gun the way to go? Aparently I chose the flywheel from hell to pull my first one. :msp_mad:

Apply heat to the flywheel with the puller tightened up, a heat gun will work but a propane torch works faster. You will hear a pop when the flywheel lets loose.

 

[boxygen]

Apply heat to the flywheel with the puller tightened up, a heat gun will work but a propane torch works faster. You will hear a pop when the flywheel lets loose.

Thanks, I didnt know if the propane torch would be to much heat. I'll go easy on it tonight and see how it goes.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Thanks, I didnt know if the propane torch would be to much heat. I'll go easy on it tonight and see how it goes.

If it is an aluminum flywheel it can take a lot of heat, the poly ones not so much. Common sense will dictate in that case. Be careful not to burn anything around the flywheel like the module, I take them off if I need to heat a flywheel which is not very often.

 

[boxygen]

I put the propane torch to it lightly tonight and kept tapping the center and it popped off. I also got the threads cleaned up and got the flywheel back on. I cleaned 23 years of dust and bar oil off the inside too. It is back in action. Thanks for everyones help.

 

[chuckwood]

copper penny?

That penny trick is fine if it's a copper one. Lots of luck trying to find one of them anymore!

Why not just use a brass hammer? I have a nice heavy one I bought cheap at a pawn shop and it's
very handy for hitting steel things that you don't want to damage.

 

[machinisttx]

Why not just use a brass hammer? I have a nice heavy one I bought cheap at a pawn shop and it's
very handy for hitting steel things that you don't want to damage.

Some brass alloys will ding/dent steel. Copper is a better choice.

 

[sawnami]

A 50/50 mix of ATF and denatured alcohol works better than kroil as a penetrating oil.

Yep, that works better than any commercial product out there. I use acetone instead of denatured alcohol. You have to shake it up before using because it will separate after sitting.

The best penetrant that I've ever seen is wintergreen oil. We get Corvette's in that will have to have the steering wheel removed to make a repair. The aluminum hub on the steering wheel holds so tight to the shaft that you will either break the legs of the puller designed to remove it or pull out the removal holes in the steering wheel. A couple drops of wintergreen oil and it comes right off.

 

[dswensen]

The best penetrant that I've ever seen is wintergreen oil.

And THAT is why I keep coming here - fantastic knowledge and willing to share. A+++

Off to get some wintergreen oil, I've got an 041 flywheel that's been giving me fits - thanks

Wait, where DOES one get wintergreen oil anyway?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Some brass alloys will ding/dent steel. Copper is a better choice.

I use a composite deadblow hammer when applying the "hammer technique" to the flywheel nut approach while holding the flywheel by some means or another...usually a rag and/or vise grips. Haven't experienced a problem or damaged anything so far.

If you do a lot of Stihl work, Bosch makes a moped flywheel puller that is reversible and fits both popular sizes of Stihl flywheel threads. I got mine from Treatland.tv for like 16 bux delivered to Ohio from San Fransisco in three days.

 

[sawnami]

And THAT is why I keep coming here - fantastic knowledge and willing to share. A+++

Off to get some wintergreen oil, I've got an 041 flywheel that's been giving me fits - thanks

Wait, where DOES one get wintergreen oil anyway?

I get mine from a local health food store. It comes in a 1oz bottle. Another plus is that the parts that you put it on smell good enough to eat.:msp_tongue:

 

[machinisttx]

Yep, that works better than any commercial product out there. I use acetone instead of denatured alcohol. You have to shake it up before using because it will separate after sitting.

The best penetrant that I've ever seen is wintergreen oil. We get Corvette's in that will have to have the steering wheel removed to make a repair. The aluminum hub on the steering wheel holds so tight to the shaft that you will either break the legs of the puller designed to remove it or pull out the removal holes in the steering wheel. A couple drops of wintergreen oil and it comes right off.

Never would have thought to try that. I'll have to pick some up and give it a try.

 

[o8f150]

i have tried brass hammers,,lead hammers,,pullers and a bunch of other things,,, i will usually always go back to the 20 pd sledge hammer,,, has never failed to get one off yet

 

[sachsmo]

Brass will damage 4140, Babbitt is a good choice as well as lead.

I use brass rods, hammers at work often, but have seen it distort/mushroom chrome moly shafts.

There are cases where the impact is the best method. I once made a slide hammer from 1" TGP shaft and a 25 pound "hammer" to remove a large journal.

Someone liked it, it grew legs and walked off, the second one is sweeter with knurled grips and a nice hilt to avoid an explosion of soft tissue.