For all in the know where is the proper cut to fell a tree --> img

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NDtreehugger

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cut.jpg
 
all depends

If you are going to be pulling it with a cable, then none of the above, [But for me the most part I use 2c or 3 c
 
I've never used notches like 1 and 2. Are those used sometimes? For any specific purpose? I have the basic manual that came with my saw. It always shows notch 3.
 
The way I see it is 2b is the Humboldt and 3b is the conventional cut. The reason for the stepped notch is a precaution of the tree kicking back over the stump at you. I've seen where even 1b is now the "new" way of doing it with a 50 degree notch. The sloped cut screws you if you misjudge the lean or it sits back on you, because wedging becomes a problem and it wants to drive the wedge in a pushing motion rather than a lifting motion. I personally use the conventional because of the ease of it and I see it better than the Humboldt, but thats my personal preference and I'm not logging so it doesn't hurt my pocket book.
 
+1 on the side bore, on leaners. That is the coolest of them.LOL Now can you explain the dutchman or the swinging dutchman cuts??:cheers:
 
1b open face3bconventional is what I use mostly. the humbolt or lumberman's notch is for squaring purposes in timber operations and I use it sometimes topping a dead conifer to make the top land flat!
 
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Hmmm I have tried dutchman but

have never got one to work.

From what I understand the Dutchman is supposed to rotate the tree by leaving a flat on the under-cut.

If I was to guess, I would think its use is mostly for conifers.
The trees I tried it on were American Elm most likely too much weight and torque.
not sure if this will show it but :popcorn:
dutchman.GIF
 
Out of curiosity Rope, what do you see wrong with 3c? It's the way I was taught by a GOL certified cutter. I know there's a possible kickback of the log issue, but is there something else I'm missing?
 

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