Ford Super Duty with the 5.4L

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Thanks for the details. Wherever I've read lately, seems like 4.10 gears are the way to go if the 5.4L is in a Super Duty (or with the 6.0L in the GM 2500HD's or with the 5.7L Hemi's in the Dodge 2500's).

Kevin

Kev, there's a huge dif between sd 250 and a 150, get a sd and you'll know every bump in the road, but I enjoy every one. Mines got air bags too, I had forgotten about them, they've been maintenance free for me, and I recommend them. Have a 150, and a sd 250, recommend a sd, maybe even 4.30s, I've got blue blood.
 
Kev, there's a huge dif between sd 250 and a 150, get a sd and you'll know every bump in the road, but I enjoy every one. Mines got air bags too, I had forgotten about them, they've been maintenance free for me, and I recommend them. Have a 150, and a sd 250, recommend a sd, maybe even 4.30s, I've got blue blood.

Yep, I KNOW I'll enjoy at least a 3/4 ton...and I won't care how it rides! :)

My reasoning might be off/wrong, but from looking at a bunch of truck specs online, I think I will want a truck that has trailer weight tow rating of at least 10,000lbs. Like I've mentioned in other posts, I want to do my next truck right and be 'over-gunned' if I can afford it (depending on what I will get for my current truck). The next truck will have to last me a long time.

A CC, LB, 4x4 is what I want to get into eventually. So for a Ford, before 2005, a F250 with the 6.8L V10, 3.73 fits the tow rating I would like. 2005 and newer, the 5.4l 3V, 4.10 fits. In the Dodge, 2003 and newer would be what I'm after in the 2500 with the 5.7L HEMI, 4.10. In the Chevy/GMC, from 2001 to 2007, the 2500HD with the 6.0L, 4.10 specs to 9,700lbs. traier wt. and the 8.1L, 3.73 specs to 13,400lbs. trailer wt. From 2007.5, in the 2500HD, the updated 6.0L, 3.73 or 4.10(?) specs to 12,100lbs. trailer wt. (DavesDD2500HD is a GM man...he can clear up any wrong info).

For my 'big' money purchases, I like to research and plan way in advance. So I'll see what happens in the next little while. Thanks for the comments, opinions, suggestions so far...like I have already said before, I'm a info junky, so whatever 'food for thought' is welcome.

Kevin
 
Yep, I KNOW I'll enjoy at least a 3/4 ton...and I won't care how it rides! :)

I like to feel the road under my truck! Before I lifted that Tahoe it drove like a marshmallow. Just got an F350 and while it's definitely got a firm ride it's far from uncomfortable. Just make sure you find something with a comfortable seat, that will mean far more after a few hours on the road.
 
So for a Ford, before 2005, a F250 with the 6.8L V10, 3.73 fits the tow rating I would like.

It might fit the tow rating you are looking for but I really recomend the 4.10:1 or 4.30:1 gears with that truck/motor.
 
It might fit the tow rating you are looking for but I really recomend the 4.10:1 or 4.30:1 gears with that truck/motor.

From some 2002 specs I found for the F250, CC, LB, 4x4, V10. 12,500 lbs. trailer wt. with 4.30 and 10,300 lbs. trailer wt. with 3.73 (with these specs, and for specs I've mentioned in other posts have been based on a auto tranny). I don't think I'd ever be pulling 12,500 lbs. of trailer wt., and even though gas mileage is bad period with either axle ratio, 4.30 might be that much more worse over 3.73...I don't know.

Kevin
 
In the Chevy/GMC, from 2001 to 2007, the 2500HD with the 6.0L, 4.10 specs to 9,700lbs. traier wt. and the 8.1L, 3.73 specs to 13,400lbs. trailer wt. From 2007.5, in the 2500HD, the updated 6.0L, 3.73 or 4.10(?) specs to 12,100lbs. trailer wt. (DavesDD2500HD is a GM man...he can clear up any wrong info).

Kevin,

For the 01-07 2500HD, the trailer tow rating is up to 10,600 for the 6.0 and 12,000 for the 8.1 and Duramax. I didn't see anything specifically about which rear end ratio though. Will keep searching.

Dave
 
I like to feel the road under my truck! Before I lifted that Tahoe it drove like a marshmallow. Just got an F350 and while it's definitely got a firm ride it's far from uncomfortable. Just make sure you find something with a comfortable seat, that will mean far more after a few hours on the road.

Yep, but not bone jarring :). Good point on a comfortable seat. I've only driven one vehicle so far that to me truly had an uncomfortable seat. It was Jeep Grand Cherokee (2007? model) that I rented one time.

I also like to hear what a engine is doing...but not obnoxiously loud...especially if it's a manual tranny. I also like a tach in a vehicle.

BTW, what are the specs on your F350? What year model?

Kevin
 
Kevin,

For the 01-07 2500HD, the trailer tow rating is up to 10,600 for the 6.0 and 12,000 for the 8.1 and Duramax. I didn't see anything specifically about which rear end ratio though. Will keep searching.

Dave

Thanks for that. I got some of my trailer tow rating specs from: http://www.trailerlife.com/ (courtesy of davec), but they do say that their numbers are not always exact and to contact the dealer.

Kevin
 
BTW, what are the specs on your F350? What year model?

Kevin

It is a 2003 powerstroke. I've only had it for a couple weeks but drove it home from Missoula Mt to Camas WA. (Just outside Portland Or) It was a great truck to drive that distance in, probably better than my wife's Subaru! I've hauled one small load of wood with it and you wouldn't have known it was back there if you didn't look.

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It is a 2003 powerstroke. I've only had it for a couple weeks but drove it home from Missoula Mt to Camas WA. (Just outside Portland Or) It was a great truck to drive that distance in, probably better than my wife's Subaru! I've hauled one small load of wood with it and you wouldn't have known it was back there if you didn't look.

Nice truck. I'd pester you for details on the truck, but it's a diesel (I like them) and I think a gasser is gonna work out better for me and my wallet.

Kevin
 
Nice truck. I'd pester you for details on the truck, but it's a diesel (I like them) and I think a gasser is gonna work out better for me and my wallet.

Kevin

Thanks. I'd tell you all I know but I don't have much experience with it yet. It really wasn't what I was looking for but it was a good enough deal I went for it. So far I'm glad I did!
 
It's about gearing, transmission and suspension; which are all much more important than how powerful the engine is.

I have a 2004 F-150 4x4 with 5.4 three valve, and the standard 3.55 rear end. The truck has an electric brake controller which, IMHO, is absolutely necessary if you're pulling anything more than an ATV.

Here is a problem I recently had while towing way over the recommended limit. At the time, I didn't have anything heavier duty to tow my JD 2355 with. I have a 5 ton, 18 ft. trailer, and the tractor will fit on it just barely if I take one fender off the trailer. The trailer weighs about 2500 lbs. empty and the tractor and mower weigh close to 10,000 lbs. That's over 12,000 gross, and it's much more than the truck was intended to pull. However, beggers can't be choosers, so I very slowly and carefully moved my tractor several times. The truck pulled it and stopped without issue but I avoided fast starts and stops. However, the last time I moved the rig I noticed the tranny seemed to be slipping. I checked the fluid and, sure enough, it was burned and smelled bad:cry: I have, so far, had the fluid changed twice, but on the new Fords you just can't get all the old trans fluid out, so it still looks dark and smells bad. I will keep doing this until it clears up, but it's obvious the drivetrain just can't take that kind of load.

The good news is that the truck is performing perfectly now with no apparent damage to the tranny. I won't pull anything that heavy again, and I just recently got a F-550 with 4.88 rear end, 7.3 powerstroke and auto trans. It has 192,000 miles on it and a tool body/bucket to haul around as well, but it will pull most anything.

My advice is to avoid any "half ton" truck if you are going to haul over 5000 lbs on a regular basis, and, if you get a 3/4 ton be very careful of what rear end ratio it has. I noticed , with horror, that some of the brand new, so-called HD trucks have 3.55 rear ends ! NO GOOD ! Get at least a 3.73 and better yet a 4.10 for pulling. Your truck will perform much better and will last much longer even at the expense of poorer fuel economy.

Just my 2 cents worth.
 
clinchscavalry, good post and advice.

Kevin

Basically, the same thing I was trying to say. If you're towing and don't have a diesel, get the lowest gearing availabe. Before I got my Excursion, I had my 2000 Dodge Durango beefed up to be able to pull my stump grinder (7,000 lbs with trailer and tools.) I have a rebuilt tranny with shift kit and LARGE cooler, 4.56:1 gears, new tires, Hawk SuperDuty brake pads (THE best for towing.), bilstein shocks, and added leaf spring. That Durango can pull the snot out of that 7,000 lbs. Most of it's ability is from the 4.56:1 gears. It was night and day difference from the stock gears (3.55:1) and only lost about 2 mpg highway when empty. It actually got better while towing. City mileage empty was the same.

It might fit the tow rating you are looking for but I really recomend the 4.10:1 or 4.30:1 gears with that truck/motor.

2008-10-13014.jpg
 
The point about gears seems to be a common one on the SD forums. The penalty to higher numeric gears (4.10 or 4.30) is minor when unloaded, and not even there when towing. If you can find it, it makes more sense in the long run. With the V10 and your occasional use, I doubt you will care too much. It would be more important with the V8.

But more important, IMHO is the overal condition of the truck. These are work trucks, and are often abused as such. If you find a nice 3.73, I wouldn't hesistate. You can always upgrade the gears for a couple thou$, if you find it to be an issue.

-Dave
 
Basically, the same thing I was trying to say. If you're towing and don't have a diesel, get the lowest gearing availabe. Before I got my Excursion, I had my 2000 Dodge Durango beefed up to be able to pull my stump grinder (7,000 lbs with trailer and tools.) I have a rebuilt tranny with shift kit and LARGE cooler, 4.56:1 gears, new tires, Hawk SuperDuty brake pads (THE best for towing.), bilstein shocks, and added leaf spring. That Durango can pull the snot out of that 7,000 lbs. Most of it's ability is from the 4.56:1 gears. It was night and day difference from the stock gears (3.55:1) and only lost about 2 mpg highway when empty. It actually got better while towing. City mileage empty was the same.

That's also some info I was wondering about. Thank ya.

Kevin
 
The point about gears seems to be a common one on the SD forums. The penalty to higher numeric gears (4.10 or 4.30) is minor when unloaded, and not even there when towing. If you can find it, it makes more sense in the long run. With the V10 and your occasional use, I doubt you will care too much. It would be more important with the V8.

But more important, IMHO is the overal condition of the truck. These are work trucks, and are often abused as such. If you find a nice 3.73, I wouldn't hesistate. You can always upgrade the gears for a couple thou$, if you find it to be an issue.

-Dave

That is key in my situation.

Isn't there a saying "Three's the/a charm?" :) You're the third member that has emphasized the importance of the right gears. Got it and thanks :).

Actually the V10 with 4.30 gears rated to 12,500 lbs. would possibly benefit me for my future plans/dreams. I did some figuring earlier today, and with a certain 12,000 lb. rated trailer, I could have 1 cord plus 2/3 cord on the trailer and 1/3 cord on the truck...delivering/hauling 2 cords at a time. This was figured approx. using Oak at 5500 lbs./cord and the trailer being 18' long and weighing 2560 lbs. empty. I know, I know...I plan/dream big for a small time firewood cutter :).

Kevin
 
Ok I know it aint new!! and it aint a SC, but man this thing is a worker..and since we are talkin trucks and showin off our rides I figured I'd share. I've had this beauty since 2001 and got it at a steal for $1800.

88 f250 5.8L 4x4 with 5spd manual ( granny low and overdrive ). The ac works..roll the windows down ( maually! ) and the heat works..all the time and the fan is rewired to a lighted toggle for high speed only. The radio has been in 3 different vehicles and still goin strong.
The best thing, I don't worry about scratchin it up in the brush!
Modifications include custom paint job and bucket seats with fold down center console from a 94, complete with lumbar adjustment ( I've had this set up for at least 3 years, some day I'll hook up the lumbar part ).

DSCF0033.jpg
 
Ok I know it aint new!! and it aint a SC, but man this thing is a worker..and since we are talkin trucks and showin off our rides I figured I'd share. I've had this beauty since 2001 and got it at a steal for $1800.

88 f250 5.8L 4x4 with 5spd manual ( granny low and overdrive ). The ac works..roll the windows down ( maually! ) and the heat works..all the time and the fan is rewired to a lighted toggle for high speed only. The radio has been in 3 different vehicles and still goin strong.
The best thing, I don't worry about scratchin it up in the brush!
Modifications include custom paint job and bucket seats with fold down center console from a 94, complete with lumbar adjustment ( I've had this set up for at least 3 years, some day I'll hook up the lumbar part ).

That's quite the truck. Built Ford tough! :)

Kevin
 
KMB,If you plan on hauling a lot of wood,and your actually worried about the actual tow capacity, A 12500 rating is a good start.It really isnt that much,my truck has a 13,100 rating or something around there 8.1/3.73,my Dodge a 13000 rating.with my 14K dump trailer loaded,its about 14000-15000,so im over the rating,and it sure dont look like a lot of wood to me...esp with green oak...The tow rating of my truck with 4.10 gears is 15,100 lbs,so im really not worried about towing a little over for my short trips,and the truck does very well pulling it.IMO,with out of warranty trucks,the tow rating should be thrown out the window for short trips and local roads.The tow rating I use for myself,the practical one, for short trips,and local roads with open trailers esp,I use the highest tow rating offered with the chassis and GVWR of the truck your buying.So in your case even with a 5.4,as long as its in a super duty,Id tow up to the max rating of the diesel,if needed,without concern for safety.It may be sluggish taking off,but IMO,you arent a liability to those around you or yourself.Just go by DOT rules,and you;ll be fine,they dont care about mfg tow ratings.If the 5.4 was in an f150,different story,as now the tow rating is chassis limited,more than power limited.

Youll be working it hard,yes,but just run full synthetic lubricants in the drivetrain,and use common sense,and all will be fine.I use low range to get out of the woods with a 15K load,then switch to high before pulling onto the road.Same for parking in the woods while loading heavy.leave it in low range,its much easier on the park gear in an auto,esp if hte e brakes dont work well.You use your gearing instead of heating the torque convertor for nothing.
 
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