Free Husky 350. Rebuild Question

[jdkeire]

I'm getting a siezed Husky 350, I've been looking at threads on rebuilding saws and also changing to the 346xp P/C...
How is it done exactly? Am I being foolish by presuming that I take out the old P/C and pop in the new 346 P/C and start her up?
Do you need any special tools for the job?
It's free, and I've alot of time on my hands, and a range of tools.. Apart from buying the P/C kit, I won't be out huge money if all goes wrong... So please put me out of my misery, will a moderately handy person do this?

Thanks, Jeff

 

[bucknfeller]

A long 4mm T handle hex wrench will pretty much do the whole job. There are hundreds of threads on AS about it. Try the search function.

 

[jdkeire]

Ok thanks, every thread I've seen so far are boring cylinders and modifying base plates and stuff that's over my head, I just had to ask the straight forward question, and your answer fairly summed it up.. Take old one out, Pop new one in, start her up :smile2:

 

[bucknfeller]

Ok thanks, every thread I've seen so far are boring cylinders and modifying base plates and stuff that's over my head, I just had to ask the straight forward question, and your answer fairly summed it up.. Take old one out, Pop old one in, start her up :smile2:

Just make sure it has a metal intake boot clamp. The plastic ones were notorious for leaking air and causing lean seizures. It's a pretty easy job. I usually put the intake, and carb on the cylinder while it is off of the saw. It is easier to line it up to the partition that way. Best to use OEM circlips for the wristpin and put the gaps either to the top, or the bottom, never to the side.

 

[Philbert]

Too much information to repeat here. Lots of guys have done it, so you should be able to also.

As noted there are dozens of rebuild threads with step-by-step instructions. I would read several until you feel comfortable with the process. Some different approaches. Here is one that I did:
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/193704.htm

A few key things:

- you want to find out WHY the saw seized so that you don't invest a bunch of time and money and seize it up again. Was it just bad gas or was there an air leak (search for pressure testing);

- since you have the time, I would suggest waiting to buy parts until you know what is 'wrong' - you may find out there are deeper troubles and decide to stop there. If you need additional parts, you will probably pay a lot more for additional shipping;

- I would replace all of the rubber (fuel lines, gaskets, etc.) and filters as long as the saw is torn down - pretty cheap to do then, and you will have a fully rebuilt saw, instead of a cobbled together one;

- you may want to rebuild the carb while you have it off for the same reason, especially if it is an older saw;

- you will need a few special tools to pull the clutch (piston stop and clutch tool), ring compressors are nice, and a tachometer helps to tune it. Other than that, a few of the right size metric hex and Torx keys, and sockets. If you have these, or have access to them you are OK. If not, you may want to build them into the cost of the saw, or find ways to improvise.

- see if you can find the Service Manual and Illustrated Parts List for that saw on the 'Beg for manuals' thread so that you have something to refer to.

Even if you get it torn down and find that it is not worth rebuilding, you will have learned an enormous amount about saws.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Here's another helpful link:

http://www.baileysonline.com/PDF/cylinder_kit_instructions.pdf

Philbert

 

[jdkeire]

I'm grateful for the replies..
I'll look at all the recommended threads

 

[jdkeire]

The baileys pdf is great, just what I wanted thanks. One last question please, in the tutorial it says to put piston ring clip on, and the next step is slide the cylinder over piston. Is there a stage where you remove the piston ring clip? Should it be on for a certain amount of time?

 

[bucknfeller]

The baileys pdf is great, just what I wanted thanks. One last question please, in the tutorial it says to put piston ring clip on, and the next step is slide the cylinder over piston. Is there a stage where you remove the piston ring clip? Should it be on for a certain amount of time?

They probably mean the wristpin clip? I usually put the clutch side clip in the piston first, then put the piston over the rod, then push the pin through from the flywheel side where you have more room, then the other wristpin clip. As far as the actual piston ring, you can put it on before you connect the piston to the rod, that way you can set the piston on the bench and be gentle with the ring. It doesn't take much to crack the ring if you over stress it, don't open it any more than necessary and work it down slowly all the way around the piston.

 

[bucknfeller]

I just looked tat the PDF, I think what you are talking about is a ring compressor. It is only used to start the rings into the cylinder. The tool is helpfull, but not a necessity. I have always just used my fingers and started the rings on the exhaust side (opposite the alignment pin) and worked it in to the cylinder slowly. Your 350 will only have one ring, it is not to difficult to start it by hand.

 

[moody]

You need the adapter to use the 346 top end. But as said find out why its locked up before dumping cash in it. Parts are available and fairly inexpensive. So if you're not sure something is going to hold up replace it. Few will say don't waste your money replacing things but why waste your time if you re use something and it fails. 350 is a great bang for your buck saw enjoy it. It'll be a great saw to work on.