Freehand cut?

[AaronB]

I have a log that is larger than my Alaskan Mill, can I cut the log in half free hand?

My thought is to chalk a line down the middle of the log (on the side of it), then once I get the bar buired in the saw I figure it will be easy or at least manageable to follow the line and cut the log in half.

I am sure someone has done this?

BTW, we did think of canting the log so then I could use the mill to cut it in half but its just to large for us to move, so this was our second best option we could think of.

The end game is we want to quarter saw the log (white oak) so we were going to half it first so we could move the halves then half the halves (get quarters) once its back at the house.

 

[BobL]

I have a log that is larger than my Alaskan Mill, can I cut the log in half free hand? .

Of course you can - but don't be like that joker who was doing this and when he finally cut it in half =, one half rolled onto his foot and trapped him there until he could get help.
Luckily he had steelcap boots or that it did not roll any further and crush his legs.

 

[AaronB]

Of course you can - but don't be like that joker who was doing this and when he finally cut it in half =, one half rolled onto his foot and trapped him there until he could get help.
Luckily he had steelcap boots or that it did not roll any further and crush his legs.

thanks for the heads up, I will use some boards and screws to anchor the top half to the bottom half as I go down the log after I put wedges in.

 

[Talltom]

Very difficult to get a straight cut through a big log without some sort of guide - even more so if sawing horizontally. The buried end will wander a lot. If you saw vertically, at least gravity isn't working against you. You may get just as good results by cutting a groove across the diameter on one end and using wedges to split the log. Oak splits quite easily. Cutting a shallow kerf along the length would help control the split. Results will depend on how straight the grain is. I did this on an oak butt that had already started to split & only had to trim 1/2 inch off each split face, but the log was only 5 ft long.

 

[rarefish383]

BobL was talking about sawing vertically so there was a right and left side, not a top and a bottom. When the guy got to the end the two sides just rolled over. I think that would be the best way to make the cut, and just put some big wedges in the sides so they can't roll, and of course, beware that they will try to move, even before you are finnished the cut. If you can get us some pics. I've made some benches free hand and the cuts were straight enough to sit on. Good luck, Joe.

 

[AaronB]

BobL was talking about sawing vertically so there was a right and left side, not a top and a bottom. When the guy got to the end the two sides just rolled over. I think that would be the best way to make the cut, and just put some big wedges in the sides so they can't roll, and of course, beware that they will try to move, even before you are finnished the cut. If you can get us some pics. I've made some benches free hand and the cuts were straight enough to sit on. Good luck, Joe.

Oh, I was planning on doing the cut horizontal. I can see how veritcal might be a tad easier but the nose of the bar would dig into the ground so that's why I didn't consider it.

 

[markvanzee]

this is how to do it!

MY LIFE IN THE PHILIPPINES VOL.14 LUMBER CUT BY CHAIN SAW - YouTube

 

[820wards]

this is how to do it!

MY LIFE IN THE PHILIPPINES VOL.14 LUMBER CUT BY CHAIN SAW - YouTube

This guy is good!

jerry-

 

[Talltom]

I can't believe I wasted all that money on a mill! I like this guy's technique, but his log is quite a bit smaller than Aaron's 30"+ one & I'll bet he's had some practice. I've tried it making a deep cut starting from the far end and it didn't work well at all, but then I can't get a cut that straight when I'm bucking a log!

Aaron - Try to get as close to plumb as you can without having the tip hit the ground. It will be much easier on your arms. OR, you can cut the log almost through and split it for the last couple inches. From the video, it looks like the guy's using gravity to keep plumb, & that wouldn't work at any angle other than plumb.

 

[Groundcover]

Good to see he had all his PPE in place !

 

[rarefish383]

This guy and I shop at the same PPE store. Only thing is I wear a pair of crocks in case a stone gets mixed in my saw dust, I have tender feet, Joe.

 

[abbott295]

But if you went barefoot all the time, your feet wouldn't be tender. Just like him.

"Only thing I wear is a pair of crocks..." Out of sight of neighbors? I'm always concerned they will want to come over and talk, since from the sound of the chainsaw, they'll know you're home.

Hearing protection at least is required.

What's that you say?

 

[AaronB]

Aaron - Try to get as close to plumb as you can without having the tip hit the ground. It will be much easier on your arms. OR, you can cut the log almost through and split it for the last couple inches. From the video, it looks like the guy's using gravity to keep plumb, & that wouldn't work at any angle other than plumb.

After watching the video I see what you mean by doing it vertical, if I angle the saw the tip wont hit the ground. Keeping the cut straighter might be easier doing it vertical similar to what the video shows, like you said it will be easier on me to control.

 

[BobL]

Oh, I was planning on doing the cut horizontal. I can see how veritcal might be a tad easier but the nose of the bar would dig into the ground so that's why I didn't consider it.

Unless you have had a lot of practice and have been seriously working out in the gym or similar then a horizontal cut will wear you out big time.

 

[n8ghz]

Unless you have had a lot of practice and have been seriously working out in the gym or similar then a horizontal cut will wear you out big time.

The Phillipino guy.....wow....barefoot in shorts, with a big saw....and what looks to be at least a 36" bar......wow.
Barefoot and it looks like he still has feet?

I wouldn't want to arm wrestle him.

 

[AaronB]

Unless you have had a lot of practice and have been seriously working out in the gym or similar then a horizontal cut will wear you out big time.

Any suggestions on method for the cut? Should I make a scoring cut then just go gradually deeper each time or go a 1/4 each time and do it in 4 passes?
Here's a couple of pics of part of the tree.

View attachment 229548

View attachment 229549

 

[hamish]

Ever think about making it smaller first then going from there? Even a large cant with wane will be much smaller and easier to work with.

 

[billstuewe]

Here is how I do it--

Here is where you get the guide I am using--
Bailey's - The Beam Machine
It works good if you have a way to get the log up on something so the bare doesn't eat rocks and dirt and I like someone to keep an eye on the tip for me and tell me when I am close to the ground.

 

[gemniii]

Here is how I do it--

Here is where you get the guide I am using--
Bailey's - The Beam Machine
It works good if you have a way to get the log up on something so the bare doesn't eat rocks and dirt and I like someone to keep an eye on the tip for me and tell me when I am close to the ground.

Is that just a 2x4 you are using for support?

 

[billstuewe]

It is, sorta, I made it myself from milled wood. It is a bit wider to eliminate the slop (be sure to camfer the edges so they fit into the co0rners of the beam machine. The tool is designed to be used with a 2x4. It has cleats on the bottom and swivels so you can pull it towards you, step on it and then lever up on the saw handle to assist in cutting-but be careful when the log splits in two with your saw mounted on it. I stop just before it breaks through and remove the saw and 2x4 and freehand the last little bit and watch the big boys go kaboom. I also prop 2x4s against the log to help support it just in case---