opcorn:
freeing piston after nearly 30 years in storage?
- Thread starter Sutterfield
- Start date
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opcorn:
Just want to follow along good luck
sawmandave
ArboristSite Operative
I have used this method on serval as motors , it works awsome until the piston clears the exhaust port , IT WILL move stuff , think about how you pump up dozer tracks with a grease gun , that requires alot of pressure , it will get the tracks so tight they cant flex at all , so this said please soak for a long time then try this method .
I welded a coupling that will accept a grease fitting to a fitting that you use in a spark plug hole so the blow by oil in the cylinder will not foul the spark plug , i will try to post a pic of my contraption..
dave :msp_biggrin:
sawmandave
ArboristSite Operative
sawmandave
ArboristSite Operative
This why i have so much stuff , love that old iron
just keeping track of your progress, I just made some of the acetone / fluid mix myself. Good luck. Jeff
ATF the go to, but type F is the best, the new mercon/dexron stuff isn't as nasty as good ole type f mix it 50/50 with acetone and there isn't much it won't break free, just don't use it on plastics...
you could safely bake yer engine up to around 250 deg much higher than that and you start pushing the limits of whether or not your stoves thermostat is correct and the temp limits on some of yer parts inside the saw. just pull any plastic parts you can off first...
When its all said and done and your engine is turning smoothly get every last bit of that atf out cause eventually it can eat away at gaskets and such, couple dips in a can of premix should be enough to do it...
One last bit is it possible that the critters got down inside the crank case? got a 044 heap in the forge that just that happened to it, bound up so tight it won't even turn now, and the cylinder isn't even on it...
you could safely bake yer engine up to around 250 deg much higher than that and you start pushing the limits of whether or not your stoves thermostat is correct and the temp limits on some of yer parts inside the saw. just pull any plastic parts you can off first...
When its all said and done and your engine is turning smoothly get every last bit of that atf out cause eventually it can eat away at gaskets and such, couple dips in a can of premix should be enough to do it...
One last bit is it possible that the critters got down inside the crank case? got a 044 heap in the forge that just that happened to it, bound up so tight it won't even turn now, and the cylinder isn't even on it...
Pioneer fan
ArboristSite Operative
I have used this method also. You can develop a tremendous amount of force, without the "shock" load that striking can produce. IIRC, a handheld grease gun can produce aroud 1500 lbs of pressure, mutiply that by the size of the bore....you can see what kinds of pressure you can make.
Can the spark plug threads stand up to these pressures ? I was just wondering ...
Yep, but be sure to remove the cylinder bolts. LOL
Here's a mistake I made >>> http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/170201.htm
KodiakII
ArboristSite Member
Did the acetone and atf mix together ok? Guys on another thread claim the two will not mix for some reason.
well? what's the result OP?
Sutterfield
ArboristSite Lurker
Well, I'm glad to see there's still interest brewing, but the sad fact is that it is still soaking, untouched. Got busy with some other stuff, holidays, got sick, changed jobs, 20 degree days, the sun was in my eyes, etc. I will try to get back to it this weekend and update with results. And to think, I was concerned that I wouldn't have the patience to let it sit long enough...
Have you ever seen the small ball bearing in the zerk blow out while being heated? I have it broke a window 12' away . Be carefull welding / heating a zerk fitting it was some scary sh1t
Sutterfield
ArboristSite Lurker
Well, here we are about 11 weeks later and I finally have news to report. First of all, I yanked it out of its acetone/ATF bath and naively tried pulling on the rod with my thumbs. No such luck. So, I decided I'd try the grease gun trick and hollowed out a spark plug. For those yet to try it, hollowing out a spark plug may be the biggest pain involved. The best method I came up with was to lay the spark plug on an anvil and smack the hex with a hammer. Turn it one side at a time and repeat until all of the ceramic breaks small enough that you can get it out. Once I had my spark plug hollowed I dug out my grease gun and realized it was empty. Bummer. I decided to see what shop air would do and welded an air chuck nipple onto the spark plug base. I shoved the air hose on with 130 or so PSI and it laughed at me again. Oh well, nothing ventured...
After a couple of weeks I remembered to buy a grease cartridge. And a few weeks after that (tonight), I made it back out to the garage. I saved myself some time and welded a grease zerk to my useless air fitting. I think I pumped it 26 times before it filled up the cylinder and the piston moved. Eureka.
It moved a bit with each pump until the piston moved past the exhaust ports and I lost pressure. So, I drilled a couple of holes in some flat stock and bolted it over the exhaust ports. This worked well until I uncovered the intake ports. At this point I stuck a punch through the end of the rod (with a few wraps of duct tape to avoid marring the bearing surface). Because of the one-piece cylinder and crankcase casting, I was able to stand the jug upright and press down on either side of the punch to get the piston near the bottom of the cylinder. For the last little bit I put a wrench over the connecting rod and tapped the piston the rest of the way out.
The lower piston ring sprung mostly loose in the groove on its own. Some careful scraping with a pick and I had both rings free. I looks like the corrosion of the piston where it was open to the exhaust ports full of mud wasp spoo was most of the hold-up. I think it will clean up okay, but would appreciate some good advise here on what products/chemicals/abrasives to use prior to reassembly.
Yay beer!
After a couple of weeks I remembered to buy a grease cartridge. And a few weeks after that (tonight), I made it back out to the garage. I saved myself some time and welded a grease zerk to my useless air fitting. I think I pumped it 26 times before it filled up the cylinder and the piston moved. Eureka.
It moved a bit with each pump until the piston moved past the exhaust ports and I lost pressure. So, I drilled a couple of holes in some flat stock and bolted it over the exhaust ports. This worked well until I uncovered the intake ports. At this point I stuck a punch through the end of the rod (with a few wraps of duct tape to avoid marring the bearing surface). Because of the one-piece cylinder and crankcase casting, I was able to stand the jug upright and press down on either side of the punch to get the piston near the bottom of the cylinder. For the last little bit I put a wrench over the connecting rod and tapped the piston the rest of the way out.
The lower piston ring sprung mostly loose in the groove on its own. Some careful scraping with a pick and I had both rings free. I looks like the corrosion of the piston where it was open to the exhaust ports full of mud wasp spoo was most of the hold-up. I think it will clean up okay, but would appreciate some good advise here on what products/chemicals/abrasives to use prior to reassembly.
Yay beer!
ALLLLL RIGHT!!!!
uttahere2::msp_thumbup::msp_tongue:
uttahere2::msp_thumbup::msp_tongue:
Dan_IN_MN
Addicted to ArboristSite
Great work! Even better remembering to buy grease! EVEN better to remember to report back here! LoL!:hmm3grin2orange:
I guess they use a grease gun to tighten tank tracks, so there's got to me a bit of force there.
I guess they use a grease gun to tighten tank tracks, so there's got to me a bit of force there.
chadihman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Soak it in cider. That'll fix any man's piston
It dont surprise me that the ATF/oil didnt break it free. The acetone probably evaporated in a short time as well.
