Fuel diagnostics

[hautions11]

OK tuning Guru's

I have a Stihl 064 that started running poorly at idle and then refused to start. Plug looked bad so I put a new one in. Without throttle it will start on Choke and run as long as you leave the choke on. Push choke off and it runs 2-3 seconds. Now, fuel filter is OK. What do you guys start with? Fuel line, Impulse line, Carb? What is the best sequence to attack fuel problems? Thanks for any help you could provide.

 

[sedanman]

On fuel issues I don't play games. Adding a fuel fitler and a line to a carb job does not add too much to the bill but it does make sure you didn't miss anything. If there is any doubt as to the condition of the car, overhaul it. And replace the fuel filter while you're at it. Check the impulse and fuel lines and replace them if they are anything less than perfect.

 

[ehp]

It sounds like a carb/ fuel problem but just for a joke , start the saw up with the choke on and spray some WD-40 around the boot between the carb and jug to make sure you donot have a air leak in the boot, did you turn the low speed jet out ?

 

[hautions11]

I did not turn the jet out. What does the WD 40 do?

 

[ehp]

If you have a hole in the boot and spray WD-40 on it with the saw running it will either quit or lower its idle rpm's as soon as you spray the WD on the hole.
Maybe your low speed jet needs sets , if the saw was set to run in warm weather and now it is in colder weather it will run lean . If you have a good dealer around there you may want to get them to look at the saw before causing some real damage to it and costing some big bucks for a new jug and piston if you cannot get it fixed

 

[ehp]

When the 064 came out we ran a pile of them, I think at one time I had 12- 064's for the cutting gangs. If the operator got stuck and pulled hard to get himself out something they would tear the boot and it would suck air and if they didnot stop running the saw it would blow up from running so lean

 

[hautions11]

UNBELIEVABLE!!!!!!!!!!!!! I stuck the bar on a 40" oak section and trid to pull the bar out before I gave up unbolted the bar and und used wedges to get the bar free. Thaks so much as this is the kind of insight I was looking for.

 

[WadePatton]

When the 064 came out we ran a pile of them, I think at one time I had 12- 064's for the cutting gangs. If the operator got stuck and pulled hard to get himself out something they would tear the boot and it would suck air and if they didnot stop running the saw it would blow up from running so lean

Could this happen on a 024super? I've been through the carb 32 times.:bang:

 

[Lakeside53]

Could this happen on a 024super? I've been through the carb 32 times.:bang:

Rule 1, trust your work. if you rebuild the carb, and do it right (they really are quite simple), it will work just fine...

Your quesition: yes, especially if the mounts are soft and the saw old. Pressure test the saw... it will remove all doubts. Check your impluse line, and, crankshaft seals. The MOST likely seal to fail on the 024/26is the one under the flywheel.

Easy way - remove the carb, move the piston up until it covers the exhaust port, put a bike pump or whatever onto the impulse line, stick your thumb into the boot hole, and pressurize it to about 8-9psi. It will not hold fully due to leakage around the piston, but it will show you any leaks with soapy water. To really test a seal you need vacuum, but most of the really bad seals fail under pressure.

 

[WadePatton]

Long story, but now I remember why I bought the 2145. I do remember hanging up the bar a time or two. Something is funky. I'll mess with it again tomorrow.