Full wrap handles

[Rounder]

Dog in, and let the chain self feed through all three cuts with the bottom of the bar....that is what they are for....let the saw do the work.....no pushing necessary - Sam

 

[HILLBILLYREDNEC]

I agree

Counter-point: if flush stumps are not a concern, why wouldn't you trade the extra ounce or two of aluminum weight for the extra agility a full-wrap offers?

Me I am after the board foot dollar. If a few ounces bothers you then you need a smaller saw lol High stumps are required in my neck of the forest.

 

[madhatte]

if a few ounces bothers you then you need a smaller saw

zackly

 

[sachsmo]

Full wraps are very handy indeed, and they just look badass.

When cutting ditch banks and slopes there is nothing better than that right side handle.

You ask a dealer around here for a full wrap, more times than not you get one of those "sideways" looks.

 

[ChrisF]

They should make heated full wrap bars, I'd rock a fullwrap on my saw if they did.

 

[paccity]

wants you work a full wrap you'll feel naked with out. i've found to be very handy flipping the saw around while knockin. even a 3/4 is handy.

 

[sefh3]

I'm left handed so when you bucking or falling a log, you find yourself in strage position trying to hang on to the saw without a full wrap.

Plus it gives that saw a cool look too.

 

[2stroked2smoke]

They look cool, they make your saw more versatile, and it helps keep your clutch cover from getting banged up, and makes your saw more stable to set down on uneven ground [husqvarnas]. Drawback- harder to get your scrench into the bar nuts, at least on the husqvarnas. I took a scrench and ground down the 3/4 side to get more clearance.

 

[ChrisF]

I'm left handed so when you bucking or falling a log, you find yourself in strage position trying to hang on to the saw without a full wrap.

Huh? I'm left handed too, always used a saw the way a right handed person does.

 

[Gologit]

Me I am after the board foot dollar. If a few ounces bothers you then you need a smaller saw lol High stumps are required in my neck of the forest.

Yup.

 

[Nailsbeats]

One of the reasons for the wrap handle is for leveling a longer bar while cutting clutch side up. You have a handle to leverage the rear handle against to hold up the bar tip.

With bars under 28" it's not that hard to level up without one.

 

[Rounder]

They should make heated full wrap bars, I'd rock a fullwrap on my saw if they did.

I don't know this for a fact, just what I was told, but I've heard you can get the Dolmar 7900 with a heated full wrap. Hopefully someone in the know can tell you for sure - Sam

 

[Evan]

I prefer stihls 3/4 wrap both my 440 and 066 are 3/4 wrapped I. Also had a full wrapped 372. It was nice but the 3/4 stihls feel much better to me.
Yes big trees 40" or so have cutting in all kinds funky angles.
I feel naked felling with or even bucking with a normal saw

 

[ChrisF]

I don't know this for a fact, just what I was told, but I've heard you can get the Dolmar 7900 with a heated full wrap. Hopefully someone in the know can tell you for sure - Sam

I think I've read that somewhere too, but not sure. I run a 2171 though, guess I should've said that.

And no Dolmar dealers within a realistic distance of where I live/work. (Besides, I LOVE the ergonomics of Jonsered. Don't want to switch.)

I wonder it's possible to make my own from a set of normal full wrap bar and a heated half-wrap bar. Granted, it'd only have the heating on the "normal" part of the full-wrap, but it'd be miles better than nothing.

 

[Cedarkerf]

I prefer stihls 3/4 wrap both my 440 and 066 are 3/4 wrapped I. Also had a full wrapped 372. It was nice but the 3/4 stihls feel much better to me.
Yes big trees 40" or so have cutting in all kinds funky angles.
I feel naked felling with or even bucking with a normal saw

I agree Stihls 3/4 kicks husky wrap all over. Heres a situation thats comman out here 6' stump on one side1' on uphill side. Ground is like gravel mixed with beauty bark.

 

[Justsaws]

Counter-point: if flush stumps are not a concern, why wouldn't you trade the extra ounce or two of aluminum weight for the extra agility a full-wrap offers?

Always "flush" stumps. Unless the OP is doing commercial work or + "20 on slopes what advantage does he get from spending the extra $100.00+ dollars on full wraps for a 576?

1. He would not have to cross over the tree to complete the falling cuts which he does not have to do now.

So again, manly men, what advantage is there to full wraps in Va. on a 576?

1. Probably none.

blue dog,if you want them buy them but they become useful felling with 28" bars and steep slopes. Some members have posted some photos of when a set of full wraps would be needed. If your situation is similiar than full wraps would be a good idea.

 

[oscar4883]

Always "flush" stumps.

Always? Well that depends. I do residential tree work and sometimes it is not worth it, or a good idea. As for a wrap handle, I have wrap handles on my 460 and 660. Got the idea after reading how a climber on this site liked them. Works great for me. However, for firewood duty, and non-extreme terrain conditions, I don't see much of an advantage. If someone wants one and has the cash, then go for it. They are pretty easy to sell if you find it to be a pita.

 

[Evan]

What's the price difrence seems over here most all saws bigger then 60cc have some form of full wrap or 3/4
I guess full wraps and 3/4s are hard to come by and Maybe the trees are smaller. I have worked on the east coast and I could not believe how flat it

 

[little possum]

Full wraps are pretty much useless for noodling with my 372 and 288.
I can see where the 3/4 wrap would be dominant.

 

[Evan]

I agree they hang up noodles.

Those that haven't run a 3/4 don't know what there missing. Clogging noodles minor its the feel that has them . Well u just don't know