Golf circlip decides to go travelling... (pics)

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Should I reuse the old clips instead of the ones in the Golf kit?

I'll take one to my local stihl dealer but if none match I will have two choices, use the old ones of the golf ones.
 
Should I reuse the old clips instead of the ones in the Golf kit?

I'll take one to my local stihl dealer but if none match I will have two choices, use the old ones of the golf ones.

Cant answer that.I know the one that broke on me did not last a half hour.I wonder if the ear part coul be cut shorter with a pair of dikes?
 
so?? don't all have 'tails' so-to-speak? whether single or dual curved??

Some have none at all

images3-2.jpg
 
So it is best to use clips like these pictured?

Wonder what the ones in the saw look like. Does Dolmar/Makita use earless? I'll reuse the old ones if they don't look worn. I'll know when I pull it apart.
 
I was thinking about your saw... is the top end interchangeable with the Dolmar 7900? Lots of 7900 pistons and cylinders out there... it's a $100 option if the Golf goes south on you.

Do you have any saw dealers that are close to you? I think the pin diameters tend to fall into standard sizes, at least they do with Stihl -- 10mm pin or 12mm pin or whatever. So the clips would interchange over a large range of saws...
 
I was thinking about your saw... is the top end interchangeable with the Dolmar 7900? Lots of 7900 pistons and cylinders out there... it's a $100 option if the Golf goes south on you.

Do you have any saw dealers that are close to you? I think the pin diameters tend to fall into standard sizes, at least they do with Stihl -- 10mm pin or 12mm pin or whatever. So the clips would interchange over a large range of saws...

+1 :clap:

I'm almost 100% positive the 7300 cut off, is the same crankcase (or based on) the 6400/7300/7900 saes...

J
 
+1 :clap:

I'm almost 100% positive the 7300 cut off, is the same crankcase (or based on) the 6400/7300/7900 saes...

J

I thought that too, but my experience has been that the cylinders are not exactly the same. I'm not sure what else, but at least the spark plug is located differently- it is leaning back on the chainsaws, but more straight up on top on the cutoffs. This causes issues with the plastic- you may be able to get it to work, but if you did at the least you would not be able to get the spark plug out without unbolting all the plastic on the saw. There are also a few other interference issues with plastic (like bosses for muffler and loop handle attachment) that make life difficult. I had a Baileys BB kit around that I wanted to try, but it was even worse- besides the previously mentioned problems, the cooling fins on the top of the cylinder are higher and more curved than OEM, and so cause more interference. The OEM chainsaw cylinders look flatter, like the chopsaw cylinder, and so may not have this issue. All that being said, I do believe that if not for the plastic it would work- everything should bolt right up to the crankcase. Unfortunately that doesn't matter if you can't put the rest of the saw back together.
 
huh...
this is true!!

I HATE when they (companies) make multiple runs of the SAME parts...just to be a pain...

cause it's not like the plastics came LATER on after the saws were designed/built. :rolleyes:
 
I had a golf made husky 346 topend go south because of a wrist pin clip letting go (happened on the first tank). Kafar replaced the kit and I tried to use OEM clips the second time around, they fit even worse than the ones supplied with the kit. I haven't ran the saw much since because it developed an air leak and I don't feel like fixing it yet.
 
huh...
this is true!!

I HATE when they (companies) make multiple runs of the SAME parts...just to be a pain...

cause it's not like the plastics came LATER on after the saws were designed/built. :rolleyes:

I figured something was up when they made the power cutters in 64, 73, and 81 (not 79) cc versions. One would expect to see the same displacements as the chainsaws if the same parts could be used.
 
While I agree in general with your statement; some saws only come with eared clips (especially Huskies), so I do see them being a problem if you face the open end of the clip facing up.

So facing the open end straight down should help alot even with the ear? Should I cut the ear?
 
So facing the open end straight down should help alot even with the ear? Should I cut the ear?

Yes, it technically shouldn't be able to come out. If you read Timberwolf's post near the beginning, he explains it a little.

Leave the ear, many, many saws come with eared circlips, so the problem isn't really with the ear, but another defect (machining in piston, metal quality and thickness). I would use OEM clips when possible though since they keep a higher quality standard.
 
Yes, it technically shouldn't be able to come out. If you read Timberwolf's post near the beginning, he explains it a little.

Leave the ear, many, many saws come with eared circlips, so the problem isn't really with the ear, but another defect (machining in piston, metal quality and thickness). I would use OEM clips when possible though since they keep a higher quality standard.

The more I read this thread the more it makes sense about how the pin is breaking. I have never put one on so I can't add anything but can take all the advice. If the groove is too deep is there a thinner filler clip that can be put in first then the circlip over it. If it is just the ear of the clip that is holding the pin in place, it is asking for trouble for sure.

I can't wait to see the piston when it comes in. I'll push the pin in piston first to see where on the clip it pushes up against.

BTW, thank you everyone who was thinking of other ways to get my 7311 concrete saw working. The cylinder does have the plug pointed up at about 45 degree toward carb then there is the decompressor valve on left side of cylinder.
 
Hi folks.

Here's what I found when I opened up my BIL's ms290... it ran once after I "fixed" it with a Golf piston and the acid treatment on the bore:

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Looks like the same ol' story: Too deep of a groove in the piston, so the pin is retained only by the clip ears... which soon succumb to the pounding and go on a bit of a walkabout... hilarity ensues... :cry:

I was looking over the pic of this piston and if the circlip opening faces straight down it will have a section with no support as there is that groove to stick pliers in to remove clip. Would swinging the clip around that the the opening of the clip aligns with that opening on the piston, this way the whole clip will have support.

So like the pic shows the clip is showing in that groove with no support, swing it around to move all or at least most of the clip out of that groove. How big of a space will clip have between ear and tip end, when installed? If not much space then turning the clip to have the open end directly across from that groove.

That first pic just looks like the clip ear is ready to swing over into that groove and break. IDK Thinking out loud here. If I never did any research I would keep the ends on opposite side, if opening is not big when installed.
 
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