Got a new Husky 359 today...need input...

[Nevada Al]

Hey all, first time poster long time reader..

I went in search of a decent saw today.. My personal saw has been a Poulan for the past 8yrs and it just makes me want to throw it in the garbage anytime I've used it on more than 2" limbs...I'm tired of borrowing a saw everytime I need to do something big.. Yes we all know the look "that guy" gets...lol

I had my mind and budget set on a 460 rancher even though I was gonna spend a little more if I could find a deal on a dolmar 5100/5105 or a 346xp knowing that its better to buy the best you can..

I drove to the nearest dealer (60 miles away) and he had a good selection of Stihl and Husky's... The 460 had 24" B/Cs on them and after I asked and was told they wouldn't switch it out for a 20" I started to look at other saws.. Right above the 460 was a new Husky 359 and wow...! it was only 50 bucks more at $499... Sold

This one was also sportin a 24" B/C but was lighter than the Rancher.. hmm And I knew it had more power...

I want to take the 24" off and put on a 20" B/C... Whats a good bar and chain to put on it...? I wan't to stay with 3/8s so I can swap over to the 24" for bucking or felling bigger stuff..(.325 and 3/8 require different sprockets right?) I know just slightly more than nothing about bars and chains :msp_confused: clueless regarding chisel and semi-chisel and whats what with bars... What works good on this saw..?. In the past I just bought the cheapest Oregon oem replacement for saws.. I know theres more to it though after finding this place..

Next, My new saw is a "green capper" I'm gonna order a non-cat muffler from Bailey's as soon as I get teh bar and chain info.. I read on the forum that these models run a little lean... Is this true.. Can somebody give me a how to on this saw tuning or point me to a good thread with the info... FYI, I live at 4,000' and will be using it up to 7-8k sometimes if that makes a difference..

BTW, I did ask to get it tuned at the dealer and he said his lawnmower mechanic might be able to adjust it.. After paying I went back to the "mechanic"..... I found a 17-18yr old kid banging the hell out of the output shaft on a brand new mover with a "BFH"... I just turned around, took my saw and left... On top of that there was some mix up finding the manual and paperwork,, at the register the manager came and gave me a yellow envelope and said here you go..ownere's manual and warranty... So I get home this afternoon open the envelope and guess what...... Its for a 460.. so I call the dealer and the manager says he can't find the envelope for the 359 cause sometimes they get lost.. Then tells me not to worry the 359 is exactly the same as the 460 except the 359 is a smaller saw.... I was like noooooooo... They are not the same... and the 460 is only bigger in CC's thats it.. not to mention some new 460 owner is probably gonna get a manual for some other model and so on... He was like yeah maybe.....WTF!!:msp_scared: Now I know why his prices are decent, because all other aspects of his buisiness outside the product suck.... Btw, he has even more Stihls than Huskies so its not like Lowes or something where I could understand how this happens....I suppose I will just print the info...after I call Husquavarna and let them know they have idiots selling thier saws..if they even care..

So aside from the rant I would appreciate help with B/C selection and some tips on tuning... Also is there any other quirks with this saw.... Its not like I'm going back to the dealer for service EVER..:msp_mad:

Thanks Al

 

[flyboy553]

First of all, welcome to AS! You will find the people here to be very knowledgeable when it comes to saws, and anything to do with saws! Very friendly folks!
I have the same saw and I really like it. Have had it for two seasons now with no issues. Well, mine came with a Walbro carb on it that had been recalled, but once that was changed out it has been great. One of these days I have to put the non-cat muffler on also, but have yet to do that.
Mine has an 18 inch bar, with 3/8th chain. I usually run a full chisel chain, occasionally switch to the semi-chisel if cutting dirtier wood. Basically, a full chisel will cut faster than semi, but will need sharpening more often.
I am not the one to advise you on most of what your asking. There are plenty of guys here far more wise than I on these things.
If you look through the threads, I am sure you will be able to answer most of your questions.
Enjoy yourself, looking through all the threads! And, enjoy your saw! Am sure you will like it!
Ted

 

[sunfish]

Welcome, Al. The only thing wrong with your first post is no photo of your new saw.

Despite the poor dealer, you got a great saw at a very good price.
The 359 is a solid, strong, reliable firewood saw, that's built like a pro model (metal case).

I would not want a 24" bar. 18" would be perfect for me. 20" would be fine, if you need one that long.

For chain, just order from Bailey's, non-safety Oregon or Woodland Pro. Chisel for clean wood, semi-chisel for dirty.
conditions.

Enjoy the saw.

 

[GA_Boy]

Congrats on the new saw. I just doesn't make sense that the dealer wouldn't swap out a 24" bar for an 18" one. That's saving him money. And two, i'm pretty sure 24" is over the rated length for that saw, so it had no business being on that saw in the first place. I have an 18" bar on mine and it 's just right. Balances out perfect.

 

[Nevada Al]

Welcome, Al. The only thing wrong with your first post is no photo of your new saw

Yep your right sorry about that...lol Here's some pics... She's nice and warm here in the house for the time being... When I get her dirtied up it will be off to be with the other tools..

I don't know what the deal was at the store....I gather maybe those Ranchers are some kind of a package deal.. I noticed tonight on Husquvarna's site that it lists a part number for the 24" 460 Rancher while right there in bold print it recommends a max of a 20" bar..? Anyway thats why I wanted it changed, just didn't have a feeling that saw would work too well with that big of a bar... This 359 is also probably marginal with that much bar so I figure I'll hang onto it incase I need it in a pinch...Opon a time I worked for a guy in upstate NY that cut trails on contract and his dealer would do everything but buy you an ice cream cone to make a customer happy bust up a bar or chain...Dropped it off and it was ready in the morning with a bill for just parts... I guess thing change or are just different out here... I know there's a good dealer in Reno about 100miles away but they aren't that useable that far out... O well, I'm done complaining, I really am happy about getting a decent saw.....

I won't be getting a bigger saw unless I move up to Idaho or something... I'm gonna use it for firewood mostly but will be droppin an occasional big elm... Probably won't get more than 100hrs a year on it at the most... I'm gonna use my litte 42cc poulan for little limbs unless I throw it off a cliff first... Then maybe a smaller saw will come home...

Thanks for the replies guys, I'll look for some 359 tuning posts, I just realized I can use the search function now as a member,,,instead of reading through pages and pages of threads..lol

Al

 

[mayhem100]

New 359 owner here too. Only fired it a couple times but really enjoyed it when I did my test cutting.

Mine came with the 20" Farm Tough Husky bar and a 3/8 .058 chain and the dealer tossed me a spare at "cost".

i'm pretty sure 24" is over the rated length for that saw

Husqvarna rates the 359 for duty with a 24" bar as its max recommended size. Might pinch it easily, but it should pull it just fine...keep the revs up. I'd like a 24" bar for mine but more for vanity than practicality...I love the look...the 20" is perfect for me.

Nevada Al, make sure to go to Husqvarna's website and register your saw so you can be sure your warranty is good and so you get any possible recall notices or safety tips from them. Based on your description I woulnd't trust that the dealer did it for you. Serial number plate is behind the clutch cover right where the top handle anchors to the body. The first two numbers are the production year.

 

[nmurph]

Welcome to the site and congrats on the new saw. The 359 is a very nice saw. It will pull the 20" bar OK. The 24" is pushing it, especially if you are burying most or all of it. For the occassional job you can get by, but you will need to have a light hand on the control or it will bog. Remember, keep you chain sharp and learn to listen to you saw and watch the cut. Your ear can tell you where the optimal point of RPM's and cut speed meet.
I would find some Stihl RSC chain if you are cutting clean wood. The bark of wood that has been dragged will be filled with dirt which will quickly dull your chain. The Oregon chain is also a good chain, but it seems to dull more quickly. If you wood is clean, the ask for a chisel chain, and don't listen to any crap about them not being able to sell it to you. If they refuse, go elsewhere.
Do some searches on chain sharpening and read up. You probably would benefit from using some type of filing guide. I would be careful of taking my chains to a shop to be sharpened. Some are OK, but many just chew up the cutters, damage the temper, and give you back a ruined chain.

 

[ncfarmboy]

To everbody get that cat muffler off ASAP it will make it run hotter than heck. Just finished my neighbors 359 (scored piston) cat muffler. He has always run Husky oil @ 40:1.

Shep

 

[longbar]

Al

Wow! Nice reloading setup! is that a Hornady LNL? Rep for the setup! Oh and nice saw btw!

 

[Philbert]

Welcome to A.S., and congrats on the new saw!

You can download the correct manual for your saw from the Husqvarna web site:

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/landowner/support/download-manuals/

If you have not used your 24" bar yet, you might be able to put it on Craig's List and defray some of the cost for the shorter bar that you want. The longer chain can be resized by a competent dealer (mine charges about $3 to do this), or sold with the bar as a set.

If you keep the longer bar, you might also think about buying a skip tooth chain to use with it if you are concerned about bogging down the motor with it.

Philbert

 

[stihl waters]

Today, 12:07 AM Nevada Al


I'm gonna use my litte 42cc poulan for little limbs unless I throw it off a cliff first... Then maybe a smaller saw will come home...

Once you use your 359 you will never use your Poulan again!

 

[Philbert]

I want to take the 24" off and put on a 20" B/C... I wan't to stay with 3/8s so I can swap over to the 24" for bucking or felling bigger stuff..

I had a similar situation when I bought a saw a few years back: I thought that an 18" bar would be a good all-around length for me, but had store credit at a retailer who only sold it with a 20" bar. Ended up buying a 16" bar for it and keeping the 20" for bigger stuff, like you mention. Now I think of it like a socket set, where I can use the parts in different combinations, instead of like a fixed length saw.

It's also nice to have a second bar in case one gets stuck and you can't wedge it out or don't have a second saw handy. Unmount the stuck bar and use your other bar to cut the first one out.

Philbert

 

[Nevada Al]

Thanks for the welcome's guys...

This site rocks, I found so much info in the Fact section that I read until 2am and I only scratched the surface...lol The compiled sharing of knowledge and experience is really amazing...

I downloaded the newest 359/357xp manual last night but according to my serial number my saw is an 2009 production so I might need to download another one....They list several for this series saw..

I'm gonna get two chains to start and after reading I think an 18" bar is in order..especially since I will have the 24" setup on hand as well.. I have no clue how to "Ebay" so Im just gonna keep it..

So...I'm gonna go with 3/8 .050 semi-chisel Woodland pro chain and an 18" Oregon Powermatch bar... How does this sound? would there be any advantage in going with a .058" bar and chain? BTW, Alot of my cutting will involve dirt, dragging and winching logs...

Thanks for all the responses....

Longbar that is a LNL with the auto case feeder... I had a Dillion 550 before and this press is lightyears better especially when changing calibers and the primer feed is top notch..... SO far its cranked out around 12,000 rnds of 9mm, 45acp, and 357..... The other press is Forster Co-Ax for my rifle needs...

 

[Nevada Al]

Philbert I was typing when you were...

Thats exactly what I was thinking, I'm not a pro so the time to switch bars is not an issue... The more I think about it the better an 18" sounds as a primary setup.. I know that I will need the 24" next week though too.. gonna cut up some big trunks on some trees that are coming down..

Once you use your 359 you will never use your Poulan again!

I think I might give it to one of my brothers..

You know that 42cc poulan has cut alot of stuff in the years I've had it but it has been a living nightmare every step of the way too... Last year I cut a 24" or so Russian Olive and one cut through the trunk too me 30 minutes.. The saw has an 18" bar and would probably bog down cutting a bannana in half... lol Probably needs a 6" bar to work..

To be honest, I went down to the hardware store and looked a Poulan Pro model that I was told was a good saw.. It looks just a crappy as my exxisting saw and I just passed... They might be alright but I doubt it.. They have a an auto chain tension system thats plastic.. I'm not bashing them but to my eyes that just don't look very good......


I took the 359 apart last night to lube everything and check to see what carb is on it.. I also checked the jetting settings and the high and the low are as far rich as it will go with the stop tab on it...Should I break it in first before I fine tune it and change the muffler out..? I don't want a hot saw during break in... I will have the muffler on the way with the bar later today..

Thanks

 

[mark360T]

I was running a 28 on my 359, just max out the oiler and you will be good to go. And my dealer will give you two free chains with a purchase of any chainsaw.

 

[GA_Boy]

I took the 359 apart last night to lube everything and check to see what carb is on it.. I also checked the jetting settings and the high and the low are as far rich as it will go with the stop tab on it...Should I break it in first before I fine tune it and change the muffler out..? I don't want a hot saw during break in... I will have the muffler on the way with the bar later today..

Thanks

You'll need to retune it once you get a new muffler on it that's less restrictive. If you can wait for the new muffer for break in, i would. Nothing wrong with crankin' her up and blipping on the throttle though :msp_biggrin:
One thing i have noticed with new saws lately is that the LA is always set too rich. I like to stand them on the bar nose at idle for about 5 secs. and bring it back up level to see if it tries to stall. If it does that means it's getting too much fuel at idle, then i'll lean out the LA a little and increase idle to compensate for the rpm drop.

 

[Mastermind]

Welcome home Al!!!!

Now a properly woods ports 359 is a very strong saw indeed. Just sayin.

 

[Nevada Al]

You'll need to retune it once you get a new muffler on it that's less restrictive. If you can wait for the new muffer for break in, i would. Nothing wrong with crankin' her up and blipping on the throttle though
One thing i have noticed with new saws lately is that the LA is always set too rich. I like to stand them on the bar nose at idle for about 5 secs. and bring it back up level to see if it tries to stall. If it does that means it's getting too much fuel at idle, then i'll lean out the LA a little and increase idle to compensate for the rpm drop.

Thanks for the tips...I just ordered the new muffler, bar, chains, files and guide, and a gray cap (to replace the green one :msp_w00t Bailey's sure has the goods..

So I'll wait till it shows up and then install it..I havn't even put fuel or bar oil in the saw yet so I'll just sit on my hands..:waiting: I'm gonna go mix some petrol now though..

mark360T
I was running a 28 on my 359, just max out the oiler and you will be good to go. And my dealer will give you two free chains with a purchase of any chainsaw.

Thats how I would think a dealer should be..But I'd have been happy to just get the correct owners manual..

Now a properly woods ports 359 is a very strong saw indeed. Just sayin.

:msp_w00t:

 

[sunfish]

Good move on the non-cat muff, shorter bar and the gray gas cap...
I hate those green caps!

 

[cat-face timber]

Congrats on the great looking saw!
Great choice.
When you go cut, if you bring your Poulan most likely it will just be watching the Husky do work. If it was me I would break it in until I put the new muffler on it. Just my opinion
Man I love me some Huskys......