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spike60

spike60

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bet it dont run as good as that 359 :greenchainsaw:


It's actually pretty close. Had them both out tonight before it got dark. Doesn't sound as good though, cause that 359 that motomedik modded is really opened up. It did beat my decked and ported 2153.

Basics are: Good power and torque. They did a good job with the weight; it is noticeably lighter than the 359. Handles like a 346. Hands being a little farther apart is very nice.

On the down side, the acceleration isn't as quick as it should be. Maybe it's the auto-tune and the programming of the prototype, and of course it's only on it's first tank of fuel. Did some limbing with it, and being used to a 346, I was hitting the limbs before the revs got there. Room for improvement there.

Another little surprise is when I went to try a 3/8 set up, is that it uses a small CMR6H plug, so the piston stop wouldn't fit in that small hole.

Took all kinds of pics, and spent an hour trying to upload them, size them or whatever. Came close, real close, to smashing this computer into small molecular sized pieces, so I went out in the shop to wind down. I'll try tomorrow from the store where I at least have hi speed.

Not into computers. Hate the f'ing things actually. :censored:


BTW, I won the family rib fest. That Rudy's Rub you gave me did the trick. Used a different sauce. Found a different Sweet Baby Ray's; Honey Chipotle. Didn't need the brown sugar. One hour on wood, two hours on charcoal. They were great!
 
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adkranger

adkranger

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Here's my common man's sense. Clutches generate heat. Engine cases radiate heat. Having the shoes farther from the case will improve cooling and therefore clutch performance and life.

If the saw is operated correctly, using the rpms intended for proper clutch engagement the clutch should not be experiencing excessive heat. Clutch failure is usually operator induced from my experience. Poor engagement, powering up in the cut (rather than setting into the wood at speed), excessive throttle blippin', installing B/C setups longer than engineered for then sinking it into large wood, etc..... Also from my experience outboard clutches are not more durable than a comparably designed inboard clutch. Purely anecdotal, but I have had to fix/replace more outboards than inboards.

Ever have to remove the powerhead from a saw with a stuck bar? I'll take an inboard clutch every time given the choice. All that said, I have saws with both and it is not necessarily a deal breaker, just a consideration. I do not see how the outboard is any kind of improvement, or has any advantage over the inboard. There is also the ease of clutch drum removal, inboards can be done in the field in less than a minute w/o any special tools........

To each their own though.:cheers:
 
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adkranger

adkranger

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It's actually pretty close. Had them both out tonight before it got dark. Doesn't sound as good though, cause that 359 that motomedik modded is really opened up. It did beat my decked and ported 2153.

Basics are: Good power and torque. They did a good job with the weight; it is noticeably lighter than the 359. Handles like a 346. Hands being a little farther apart is very nice.

On the down side, the acceleration isn't as quick as it should be. Maybe it's the auto-tune and the programming of the prototype, and of course it's only on it's first tank of fuel. Did some limbing with it, and being used to a 346, I was hitting the limbs before the revs got there. Room for improvement there.

Another little surprise is when I went to try a 3/8 set up, is that it uses a small CMR6H plug, so the piston stop wouldn't fit in that small hole.

Took all kinds of pics, and spent an hour trying to upload them, size them or whatever. Came close, real close, to smashing this computer into small molecular sized pieces, so I went out in the shop to wind down. I'll try tomorrow from the store where I at least have hi speed.

Not into computers. Hate the f'ing things actually. :censored:


BTW, I won the family rib fest. That Rudy's Rub you gave me did the trick. Used a different sauce. Found a different Sweet Baby Ray's; Honey Chipotle. Didn't need the brown sugar. One hour on wood, two hours on charcoal. They were great!

Sounds like you need some technical assistance there.......maybe you need to pass the beta saw on to someone who can post some pix & vids.:monkey:

I may be late to the party on this, but with auto-tune are you able to tweak it yourself with conventional tools? Or have saws entered the realm of laptop tuning? That may not be the worst thing, depending on the availability of the software........:chainsaw:
 
the westspartan

the westspartan

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If the saw is operated correctly, using the rpms intended for proper clutch engagement the clutch should not be experiencing excessive heat. Clutch failure is usually operator induced from my experience. Poor engagement, powering up in the cut (rather than setting into the wood at speed), excessive throttle blippin', installing B/C setups longer than engineered for then sinking it into large wood, etc..... Also from my experience outboard clutches are not more durable than a comparably designed inboard clutch. Purely anecdotal, but I have had to fix/replace more outboards than inboards.

Ever have to remove the powerhead from a saw with a stuck bar? I'll take an inboard clutch every time given the choice. All that said, I have saws with both and it is not necessarily a deal breaker, just a consideration. I do not see how the outboard is any kind of improvement, or has any advantage over the inboard. There is also the ease of clutch drum removal, inboards can be done in the field in less than a minute w/o any special tools........

To each their own though.:cheers:

Well said. rep sent.
 
spacemule

spacemule

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If the saw is operated correctly,

I'd wager that fully half of the saws out there are, in fact, operated incorrectly. Furthermore, I'd wager that manufacturers design with this in mind. And finally, if you're "operating correctly," you should never have to remove a bar from a saw that is stuck in the tree.
 
Zombiechopper

Zombiechopper

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I'd wager that fully half of the saws out there are, in fact, operated incorrectly. Furthermore, I'd wager that manufacturers design with this in mind. And finally, if you're "operating correctly," you should never have to remove a bar from a saw that is stuck in the tree.

tha's BS. If you cut enough wood yer gonna get a bar stuck. Armchair loggers never get pinched bars though ;)
 
belgian

belgian

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c'mon spike...

attachment.php
 
cuttinscott

cuttinscott

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Hey Spike, Steve says GRAB your Poloroid snap a few pics drop them in the mail to him and he will upload them for ya LOL.... Or Ship him the saw for a PHOTOSHOOT!!!! He Will send it back asap :clap::dizzy:

Or email what you have and he will upload them??


Scott
 
adkranger

adkranger

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... you should never have to remove a bar from a saw that is stuck in the tree.


In theory, yes, but those of us that actually work in the real world with saws on imperfect wood, in real world situations feces happens. Even to the best sawyers. If someone claims they have never stuck a bar they are either liars, posers or just full of ****.:cheers:
 
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