Great ideas to keep the firewood the same size

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I use a broken cheap telescoping mechanics magnet with a landscaping flag stuck in the end of it. The flag I cut down to size and removed the rest. The wire, I cut to length and stuck it in the end of the broken telescoping part with the magnet on the end, pinched it tight with a pair of pliers and used a little piece of duct tape to hold the wire in place. I carry the thing in my saw box or in my pocket so that when I need to cut wood to length, I'll pull it out, attach it to the end of the bar and walk along the log (with the chainsaw running) and make a little cut in the log as I go. When the little flag lines up with a little cut, that's where I make my next little cut and so on until I have marked however many logs i have staged. Then just simply reach over remove the little contraption and stick it in my pocket or toss it towards the saw box. Instead of walking back to where I started marking the logs, right there, in reverse order I make my cuts 3/4ths of the way through the log, roll the log and finish. It might not be perfect, but it's close enough and my firewood is fairly uniform when all is said and done. If per chance I have multiple logs stacked, that means only one log gets marked since as I'm making my cuts they will automatically mark the next log.

If I need to measure logs to whatever length, then I'll use a regular fiberglass tape measure, make a little cut and move on down the log.

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I got nothin' for that... it's just natural, automatic motion for me.

And an unnecessary one, that's repeated how many times per tree? Swinging a 10# (or more) saw 90° and back before every cut is a lot of wasted energy.

I'm thinking you're gonna have to come to the spring IA GTG - I smell a challenge. 2 equal sized logs, I'll even use the same size saw as yours. First one to have em in firewood lengths, with deductions for over/under length (tolerance and penalty to be determined), wins. Winner gets a box o beer from the loser. I'm packin Mingo.
 
I'm just old and cranky don't like new things, had the same stick for 30 yrs. bought a box of lumber crayons and a holder when I bought my stove. Still got 1/2 box left, even gave some to the neighbors, my time is worth squat. I do like to see and read about new things, but I don't change much. Of course that doesn't mean I haven't bought a crap ton full of saws over the years.

:popcorn:
 
And an unnecessary one, that's repeated how many times per tree? Swinging a 10# (or more) saw 90° and back before every cut is a lot of wasted energy.

I'm thinking you're gonna have to come to the spring IA GTG - I smell a challenge. 2 equal sized logs, I'll even use the same size saw as yours. First one to have em in firewood lengths, with deductions for over/under length (tolerance and penalty to be determined), wins. Winner gets a box o beer from the loser. I'm packin Mingo.
Better pack an extra box o beer too, whitespider is one that I wouldn't be challenging. I have seen pictures of his wood stacks. I do agree to the swinging the saw being a pita, but easier than running that mingo down the small limbs.
 
And an unnecessary one, that's repeated how many times per tree? Swinging a 10# (or more) saw 90° and back before every cut is a lot of wasted energy.

You would think so... but really it ain't.
It's darn simple, easy and fast if the log is elevated, a bit less so for one laying directly on the ground, which I try to avoid... and built a HD log lift to avoid it ('cause hittin' dirt with the chain really wastes time). When you hold a saw it doesn't "naturally" hang in your hands with the bar sticking straight out... as a right-hander, the bar "naturally" swings left and pivots down slightly, and I take advantage of that. I cut most of the time with a 16-inch bar (my gauge), and the 20-inch bar has paint marks.

Cuttin' right-to-left - when I finish the cut I simply relax my arms and the bar "naturally" swings left under the log, the clutch cover is in line with the log end and I only need to glance where the bar tip is... lifting the saw for the next cut (lifting is required no matter how you wash it) as I'm sort'a side-stepping/back-stepping into position brings the bar back into cutting position.

Cuttin' left-to-right - again, I relax my arms at the end of the cut, the bar "naturally" swings left, while sort'a side-stepping forward into position and lifting the saw I watch the bar tip, when it's flush with the log end my clutch cover is the reference... and again, lifting the saw brings the bar back into cutting position.

I don't need a mark on the log, there's always something to reference... a piece of bark, a knot, a scar, a stray saw chip, whatever. That reference don't need to be exactly in line with the bar tip/clutch cover... if it's an inch or two off I can adjust accordingly. Yeah, the technique does require constant minor modification depending on actual conditions/positions... but the motion is fluid and don't use any extra energy... or, at least it uses a whole lot less energy (and time) than walking up 'n' down the log marking it!! Of course, I've been doin' it for over 30 years so it is automatic and extremely fast for me. It might feel a bit awkward at first for a beginner because the natural tendency is to lift straight up on the saw after the cut... which never relaxes the arms and uses more energy because the arms, especially the left arm doing the lifting, is partially extended away from the body.
 
Everyone is different. I'm pretty good at just eying up things, so I don't use anything. Sometimes I just imagine the width of my stove door when I make the cut. I'm usually not more than an inch or so off. But if I hand my chainsaw to my boy, the lengths are usually 2-3 inches too short. I'll keep telling him "a little longer", but still the same result. He's 23 and he puts wood in the same stove as I do all winter long. WTH. Too short wastes time. It's more cuts, more time watching the log splitter go back and forth, more stacking, and you're not getting the stove as full as you could with longer pieces. So anyway, if you're not so good at eyeballing, I guess you can use whatever helps. As far as neat stacks, I never seem to have firewood that splits all that straight anyway. I see pictures on here of all those perfect stacks and just wonder where they get all that perfectly straight grained wood.
 
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Logging. Sometimes you might even make a little money at it. :laugh:
Oh I do that too but not on the basis you do I'm like 2 loads a week, not 2 loads an hour. I know you've heard this but; how to make a million dollars logging, start with 2 million. Oh well have a great Saturday :rock:
 
Folks that think they are smarter than everyone else chap my ass......

But, but, but... what if the guy that thinks he's so smart also continually claims that "this isn't my first rodeo"??? Doesn't that give him automatic bonus points? And what if he's strong (supposedly, just ask him) as well? Surely that must count for SOMETHING??

Regarding uniformity of woodstacks, plus or minus an inch or two is plenty close for me. Within two years they'll be replaced by new stacks anyway.
 
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What got me started making sure all the firewood I cut is all one length was this grouchy old man that I call my uncle. He insisted that we do things a certain way.

Most of the wood I cut is used for sweat lodge ceremonies, and I have been taught that the spirits like everything to be beautiful, including the wood stacks.
 

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