In The Weeds
ArboristSite Operative
I suppose if you could grind without applying too much heat a grinder and a file would get an equally sharp chain. 
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grinder versus file specifically for stihl RSC
- Thread starter mikefunaro
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Terry Syd
Addicted to ArboristSite
There may be something in the 'hook' that a file can give to a cutter's edge. I can take a ground chain and dress it up with a file and it will cut better. Perhaps it is the difference in the 'wedge' type of cutting edge on a ground cutter and the progressive radius of the filed edge. The filed edge seems to enter the wood with less resistance.
In The Weeds
ArboristSite Operative
Are you saying that a grinder leaves more of a burr?
indiansprings
Firewood Purveyor
I've got a grinder, and a good one, not a HF toy, it sets idle 90 percent of the time. I just find we like the hand filed one's better for what we do, I know for a fact I get alot more chain life out of hand filing.
I do find I can get the oregon 22 lpx sharper than the Stihl chain, it imho is softer,easier to file, but we don't get the life out of it we do with RSC. If if grind a chain I'll almost always touch it up with a file after grinding it. I can't stand a dull or marginal chain, it slow things down, it's harder on the saw and the operator an imho a dull chain is dangerous to saw with, I've seen people put insane amounts of pressure on a saw with a dull chain. Buy you a dozen save edge files from bailey's, I like the smooth finish they put on a tooth and they last.
I do find I can get the oregon 22 lpx sharper than the Stihl chain, it imho is softer,easier to file, but we don't get the life out of it we do with RSC. If if grind a chain I'll almost always touch it up with a file after grinding it. I can't stand a dull or marginal chain, it slow things down, it's harder on the saw and the operator an imho a dull chain is dangerous to saw with, I've seen people put insane amounts of pressure on a saw with a dull chain. Buy you a dozen save edge files from bailey's, I like the smooth finish they put on a tooth and they last.
roger m
ArboristSite Operative
i have used a file and grinder,i usually use the grinder after i have found a rock or metal in the wood i am cutting,normal wear i usually touch them up with a file,jmo
Another thing people don't understand is the proper settings being used with a grinder - very similar to being very careful with hand filing. The grinder needs to have the right settings applied. Other settings that will affect sharpening is the ability to compensate for the wearing of the wheel. And something very important to getting a proper edge is setting the depth correctly and making sure the wheel is dressed accordingly. Run a hand file just a little deeper in the hook and you may find longer slivers or a "sharper" edge, similar to running a file one size smaller. You may yield some performance gains, but they will be temporary. It will dull faster. It's a matter of physics vs. mental perception. Just like a "modded" saw isn't always faster than a stock saw - but it's been ported or MM'd, it must be faster!!
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying grinding is better than hand filing. I'm saying they're equal. The operator just needs to know how to use the tool in order to get the desired results.
And actually, the OP is asking specifically about Stihl chains and results. I do find the Stihl chains to be a little harder, but I don't do anything differently other than take a little longer doing it by hand. Almost unnoticeable.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying grinding is better than hand filing. I'm saying they're equal. The operator just needs to know how to use the tool in order to get the desired results.
And actually, the OP is asking specifically about Stihl chains and results. I do find the Stihl chains to be a little harder, but I don't do anything differently other than take a little longer doing it by hand. Almost unnoticeable.
imagineero
Addicted to ArboristSite
There are way too many variables to both hand cutting and grinding to make some a simplistic comparison.
For hand filing, You have to be able to consistently maintain file depth in the cutter (hook), cutter angle same on all teeth, cutter angle 'straight' on each indivdual tooth (not waving around), cutter length, and file 'drop'. Then keep all these the same on both left and right cutters, regardless of one cutter perhaps being harder than the others. Just doing the same number of strokes on each tooth isnt going to cut it. As a beginner you need to start with file guides to take a couple of the variables out, and use verniers. As you get better, you can hand file and get pretty close just by eye.
For grinding, A lot of cheaper grinders just arent that consistent. They vary from left to right, and flex. Add to this the different types of wheels available, dressing the profile of the wheel getting the settings right, not burning the cutters. Using a good quality CBN/ABN wheel on a top quality grinder is completely different from using a poorly dressed pink wheel on a $30 ebay special.
It's pretty tough to pick between a top quality grinding wheel/grinder in the hands of a pro sharpener vs a top quality hand sharpen by someone equally skilled. Having said that, it takes regular practice to get good at hand sharpening, and i you aren't using a saw that much you may not ever get good at it. I've met plenty of full time saw users that are absolutely awful hand sharpeners.
If you are not a good hand sharpener, a cheap grinder/wheel isn't going to improve your situation at all. A top quality grinder/wheel will be far superior to a low quality hand sharpen, and 90% of people will get sharper more consistent chains with less effort this way. Over the life of the grinder/wheel, you probably have come out ahead compared to buying files too. Adding to that, careful use of a grinder will get more sharpenings out of a chain than hand filing will in my opinion. Some users are getting a couple thousand chains out of these combos, if you're paying a buck a file and only getting a few sharpens average out of each file by the time you factor in files you lose, files that rust, files you break, files you destroy on overly hard cutters etc....
But you still need to know how to hand file so you can touch up.
Shaun
For hand filing, You have to be able to consistently maintain file depth in the cutter (hook), cutter angle same on all teeth, cutter angle 'straight' on each indivdual tooth (not waving around), cutter length, and file 'drop'. Then keep all these the same on both left and right cutters, regardless of one cutter perhaps being harder than the others. Just doing the same number of strokes on each tooth isnt going to cut it. As a beginner you need to start with file guides to take a couple of the variables out, and use verniers. As you get better, you can hand file and get pretty close just by eye.
For grinding, A lot of cheaper grinders just arent that consistent. They vary from left to right, and flex. Add to this the different types of wheels available, dressing the profile of the wheel getting the settings right, not burning the cutters. Using a good quality CBN/ABN wheel on a top quality grinder is completely different from using a poorly dressed pink wheel on a $30 ebay special.
It's pretty tough to pick between a top quality grinding wheel/grinder in the hands of a pro sharpener vs a top quality hand sharpen by someone equally skilled. Having said that, it takes regular practice to get good at hand sharpening, and i you aren't using a saw that much you may not ever get good at it. I've met plenty of full time saw users that are absolutely awful hand sharpeners.
If you are not a good hand sharpener, a cheap grinder/wheel isn't going to improve your situation at all. A top quality grinder/wheel will be far superior to a low quality hand sharpen, and 90% of people will get sharper more consistent chains with less effort this way. Over the life of the grinder/wheel, you probably have come out ahead compared to buying files too. Adding to that, careful use of a grinder will get more sharpenings out of a chain than hand filing will in my opinion. Some users are getting a couple thousand chains out of these combos, if you're paying a buck a file and only getting a few sharpens average out of each file by the time you factor in files you lose, files that rust, files you break, files you destroy on overly hard cutters etc....
But you still need to know how to hand file so you can touch up.
Shaun
chopperfreak2k1
Addicted to ArboristSite
no, but i also do not sharpen all my chainsaw chains wether they need it or not. what i mean is in this case you must compare your single knife to your single chain. when you sharpen your kitchen knife you don't just sharpen the tip or middle section right? you sharpen the whole blade pretty much uniformly i'd expect.
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
As a matter of fact I do sharpen the part of my knives that is dull.
No use to sharpen back by the handle if the dull part...and that's the part you are using...is the point.
My point is that each cutter is an individual cutting instrument and should be treated that way.
Having cutters of different lengths on the same chain doesn't matter unless they are ALL longer or shorter on one side.
I can't believe there are actually people who measure each tooth with calipers.
Mike
Fish
Tree Freak
Well those big rolls of new chain are all hand filed, that is why new chain cuts better.........
