H.P vs. Bar Length?

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rms61moparman

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I tried the search function but couldn't find anything on it. I was just wondering if anyone had ever done a horsepower versus bar length chart. I know that it would only be a general guide and variables such as torque/rpm and hard wood/soft wood would all factor into it but it seems like it could be done.
Mike
 
I tried the search function but couldn't find anything on it. I was just wondering if anyone had ever done a horsepower versus bar length chart. I know that it would only be a general guide and variables such as torque/rpm and hard wood/soft wood would all factor into it but it seems like it could be done.
Mike

Nope, too many variables to make that worthwhile.
 
I talked to a crew-boss Friday, and they like a 28" full comp, full chisel 3/8" on their MS 361's... Said they have no problems with bogging, etcetera. This guy has logged for 20 years, so I'll take him at his word.

They commonly cut Doug Fir, Ponderosa Pine, Lodgepole Pine, Cottonwood, Larch (Tamarack), the occasional Maple, Buckeye, etc.

I think it all boils down to personal preference.:confused:
 
That's way too much bar for that saw...unless you're cutting typical Montana pecker poles, and bumping knots.

Typically:

13-18 inch bars= 3 cube, 3-4 hp saws
18-24 inch bars= 3.5-4 cube, 3.8-4.5 hp saws.
20-32 inch bars= 4-5 cube, 5-7 hp saws
24-42 inch bars = 5-6 cube, 6-7.7hp saws
30-84 " 088, 3120 or any other old 7-8 cube big saw....

longer versus shorter variables are wood type and whether you're a length challenged easterner.....or a stud western logger.....
 
I was just wondering if anyone had ever done a horsepower versus bar length chart. I know that it would only be a general guide and variables such as torque/rpm and hard wood/soft wood would all factor into it but it seems like it could be done.
Mike

Around here, as a general rule: "More is Better" on both counts! :clap: :greenchainsaw:
 
Just ask, but you will probably find out on your own. As a Midwestern hardwood "heathen", I'm going to tell you to buy a shorter bar than those PNW "manly men". I run a 20" on my 372, and a 24 or 36 on my 066. My 60cc saw sports a 16".

Mark
 
I can't, it says something like I need to spread the love around or something like that. I guess I have to be nice to someone else before I can neg you. I hate that. Sorry, Supreme Red Nova Master. It's the thought that counts. Right?
 
Just ask, but you will probably find out on your own. As a Midwestern hardwood "heathen", I'm going to tell you to buy a shorter bar than those PNW "manly men". I run a 20" on my 372, and a 24 or 36 on my 066. My 60cc saw sports a 16".

Mark

yeah, what he said!

I got a chance to run the red version of that 20"/372 combo again. I think when the government decides to economically stimulate me this May, I may have to stop at the local Jonsered dealer and do my part.

And I have an 18" on my 60cc saw-PNW here I come!
 
Just for the record, I think a 28" on that 361 is too much... But then again, I haven't ran that configuration, so I can't say it sucks. I'm meeting with them tomorrow morning... Maybe they'll let me dig into some wood with it?
 
I think as far as a chart goes, it's probably personal preference.
What I've never been able to understand is why some run 20" bar's on an 066 or a 395 unless you're racing. If a 20" bar is all that's needed, I'd use a smaller saw.
To me, running a 20" bar on a 66 would be like pulling a 2 horse trailer with a Kenworth. It might be fun but not a good work scinario.

Of corse this is just my opinion.

Andy
 
HTML:
LOL dont listen to your wives - SIZE DOES MATTER


and bigger is better

Yeah, My wife reminds me of that at least once a week.....WHEN I HAND HER MY PAYCHECK!!!!
Mike
 
I have never been asked this before as a generalization. I just played around and thought 1.3*the square root of the bar length in inches should be close. Due to the numbers of variables involved this is only for ballpark figures. The constant 1.3 would vary from about 0.9 to 1.5 depending on the hardness of the wood. You could easily use a spreadsheet program to play around with parameters and customize it. Cheers, Simon.
 
I think as far as a chart goes, it's probably personal preference.
What I've never been able to understand is why some run 20" bar's on an 066 or a 395 unless you're racing. If a 20" bar is all that's needed, I'd use a smaller saw.
To me, running a 20" bar on a 66 would be like pulling a 2 horse trailer with a Kenworth. It might be fun but not a good work scinario.

Of corse this is just my opinion.

Andy

Man, I was going to get an 880 and slap a 14" bar on it to use as my climbing saw:D
 
My boss just ordered a 2152 and when I showed him the website and he saw that the 20" B/C was available that is immediately what he decided on. I tried to recommend a 16" but he wanted the biggest bar he could get with the saw. I did tell him that at least he could stop by TSC and pick up a 16" when he got tired of dealing with the 20". On the plus side it does come with 2 free chains, so at least he got the most expensive chains thrown in.

He is moving up from a two saw plan of Wildthings. One with 14" and one with 18". So he should be happy with the saw just in terms of quality.
 
I have never been asked this before as a generalization. I just played around and thought 1.3*the square root of the bar length in inches should be close. Due to the numbers of variables involved this is only for ballpark figures. The constant 1.3 would vary from about 0.9 to 1.5 depending on the hardness of the wood. You could easily use a spreadsheet program to play around with parameters and customize it. Cheers, Simon.
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