Hard nose bar suggestions

[bitsumishi]

I cant use a sprocket bar as they always jam on me, overheat, then I lose the chain. I get a few specs of sand in there (its very sandy soil here) however careful I am and no amount of oiling will prevent the jam.

I think I have no alternative than to use a hard nose bar.
Can anyone suggest a good one? I need 18", .325 to fit an MS250.
I think the Stihl Duromatic is only in a 3/8?

Thanks.

 

[pgdalton]

Hard tip bars are not specific to chain pitch.

 

[LoveStihlQuality]

I have a used 18" duromatic .063 ga but don't think it will mount up. This is the part no. I have a MS 250, I'll try it out.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

 

[bitsumishi]

Sprocket bar

 

[Philbert]

Different bar mount for the MS250 than larger (e.g. MS260) saws.

You have to find one in a 3005 mount (Oregon A074), with the right gauge bar groove (or buy chain to match the groove you can find). But as noted, chain pitch does not matter.

Might have to talk to a dealer, or contact some of the on-line/catalog vendors to find a 3rd party bar. Most of these appear to be geared to larger saws.

EDIT: 'Worst case scenario' might be to make (or find someone to make) a sprocket replacement insert for a sprocket nose bar: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/nose-sprocket-rescue-illustrated.256640/

Philbert

 

[bitsumishi]

Was just looking at GB bars and I'm thinking that their bar will have the same mount issue as they list for a 260 but not a 250.
http://www.gbforestry.com.au/store/...ssional-hard-top-guide-bar---063-gauge-detail

http://www.gbforestry.com.au/store/chainsaw-products/chainsaw-bars/hard-top-bars

Anyone know of bar which will fit a 250 mount?

 

[Philbert]

Just saw that you are in Australia. Archer makes some solid tip bars, but do not see one listed in that mount, in the catalog I have. But things change - check with a dealer; they may have sourced them for someone else in your situation.

Anyone know of bar which will fit a 250 mount?

You have to find one in a 3005 mount (Oregon A074)

Archer 'SW'.

Philbert

 

[CR888]

You may want to give an 063 gauge sprocket nose a try. Although you don't mention what gauge your having issues with, my experience would suggest its 050. I eliminated a lot of binding issues more due to hardwoods than sand by changing gauge. The heat issues I had dissapeared too. Just a thought.

 

[bitsumishi]

EDIT: 'Worst case scenario' might be to make (or find someone to make) a sprocket replacement insert for a sprocket nose bar: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/nose-sprocket-rescue-illustrated.256640/ Philbert

Was brand new bar and chain. This time it was first time out with the bar and first tank of fuel and the thing jams solid and throws a chain. Not the first time this has happened. Another wrecked chain. I was lucky not to get hurt. Fed up with replacing chains. Took me half an hour to get the sprocket to run free in the shop. Enough is enough.
The saw got so hot I couldnt touch the nuts.
So saving a worn sprocket isnt the problem. They dont wear out, they just jam.

 

[bitsumishi]

Just got a text from a Stihl dealer "No hard nose bars, Stihl or otherwise, available for your saw".

Have asked Cannon in Canada and Suehiro Seiko in Japan, if they can make one for me. Will let you know what they say.

 

[Franny K]

Pretty much any bar with the right thickness of (bar stud) slot can be made to work. That would be the Oregon 095 and 041 (small husky mount and poulan mount). Pretty much also means stay away from narrow tail bars like Oregon AXXX which one might find in the laminated ones. Need to drill a new adjuster hole and oil hole. Those 3005 stihl bars are kind of wide real quick so the tail may need to be pretty close to the sprocket to get the oil hole far enough below the rail so the chain may end up being a drive link smaller than called for. I would say it is more a matter of the nose radius you get than any specific other thing. The laminated hard nose Oregon bars seem to have kind of a small nose radius. Larger radius does not get as hot. Hope this helps, I might suggest getting something off ebay. I made the solid Oregon medium nose 095 work on my ms251. even ground the tail rails down a bit on one side to use 6 tooth 3/8lp chain as that sprocket diameter is kind of smaller than it was designed for. The weight of that set up kind of makes the saw more dangerous in the balance aspect.

 

[bitsumishi]

Suehiro do a solid nose carving bar in a 3005 mount. Only 16" and .050. I think their intention is to use a 3/8LP chain with this bar.
Have no idea how these bars go with cutting logs...anyone had any experience with this type?
Certainly fits with small nose radius/less heat. Maybe also less drag/less loss of speed as I read somewhere that a full size hard nose bar can reduce speed by 10%. Though really dont like the look of carving bars much.
http://www.suehiroseiko.jp/download/catalogue_en.pdf

 

[Franny K]

Small nose radius is more heat sorry I edited the post above. Definitely gets hotter perhaps it is the same heat but more area to dissipate it. The medium nose radius (1.33" from the sheet I have) Oregon really does not seem to get hot enough to worry about it at least on my similar saw to what you have.

 

[Philbert]

So saving a worn sprocket isnt the problem. They dont wear out, they just jam.

You missed my point (or I was not clear).

If you cannot easily buy a solid nose bar that fits your saw, you may be able to convert a sprocket nose bar into a solid nose bar with just a little bit of work. Pull the nose sprocket and install a metal spacer cut to fit.

Philbert

 

[Franny K]

You missed my point (or I was not clear).

If you cannot easily buy a solid nose bar that fits your saw, you may be able to convert a sprocket nose bar into a solid nose bar with just a little bit of work. Pull the nose sprocket and install a metal spacer cut to fit.

Philbert

Not sure what you have in mind and doubt the feasibility of what I think you have in mind but a splice from a stellite tipped hard nose bar solid or laminated probably is a better idea though I have not tried any splices.

Here is the one I am suggesting modifying http://leftcoastsupplies.com/product/laser-weld-armor-tip-bar-3/