hard nose milling

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BIG JAKE

BIG JAKE

Let’s go Brandon!
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I use a sprocket nose. It lifts the chain around the tip and eliminates most of the friction via bearings. Milling generates enough heat as it is spinning the chain continuously. No need to add friction into the mix. Hardnose bars are the ticket for rootballs and really dirty wood though. You could try the stickier bar oil and see if that helps bring the temp down or back off the chain tension a tad. You need optimum film strength in you're bar oil though for a hardnose bar. As long as the metal isn't turning blue you should be ok.
 
smokinj

smokinj

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I use a sprocket nose. It lifts the chain around the tip and eliminates most of the friction via bearings. Milling generates enough heat as it is spinning the chain continuously. No need to add friction into the mix. Hardnose bars are the ticket for rootballs and really dirty wood though. You could try the stickier bar oil and see if that helps bring the temp down or back off the chain tension a tad. You need optimum film strength in you're bar oil though for a hardnose bar. As long as the metal isn't turning blue you should be ok.

Thats what mntgun said as well, I was running tight for sure. Makes sence nothing blue...I will Back off some.
 
stingray bay

stingray bay

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Arapawa Island marlbourgh sounds new Zealand
Thats what mntgun said as well, I was running tight for sure. Makes sence nothing blue...I will Back off some.

Be careful how much you back it off though as too much and the chain will flop around both ends of the bar resulting in extra wear of the bar. On my 880 I found that when the chain was backed off the return (read top) chain was hitting the top mill bolt, I only noticed when it started getting dark and saw the sparks! By the time I noticed my .404 had eaten half the bolt, speed of cut dropped a bit but not as much as you'd expect! I now mount the bar off centre, much closer to the bottom mill bolt and haven't hit the top bolt since (mind you I run the chain at the normal tension too), regards Mark
 
smokinj

smokinj

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Be careful how much you back it off though as too much and the chain will flop around both ends of the bar resulting in extra wear of the bar. On my 880 I found that when the chain was backed off the return (read top) chain was hitting the top mill bolt, I only noticed when it started getting dark and saw the sparks! By the time I noticed my .404 had eaten half the bolt, speed of cut dropped a bit but not as much as you'd expect! I now mount the bar off centre, much closer to the bottom mill bolt and haven't hit the top bolt since (mind you I run the chain at the normal tension too), regards Mark

Thanks does seem be a fine line. I was use to the 460 and cross cutting so it was about an 1/8 pull now shooting for 1/4-3/8 after letting the bar cool down before tighting
 

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