Hard Pulling Dolmar

[rayvil01]

I've got a nice old Dolmar 540 that has been a great saw, and still runs great. But, it's gotten hard to pull the starter. Seems like when it goes through compression the rope just stops and wants to pull out of my hand. It'll start on the second pull, but you have to get it on compression then pull it a very short stroke. The starter and pawls are in great shape. Without a plug is pulls perfectly. I thought I had side-slipped the flywheel. But, when I pulled the flywheel it was not slipped. The flywheel did seem to be in two pieces; one an insert on the flywheel, the other remaining on the shaft. The parts list doesn't show it that way. So, I've ordered a new one. Regardless, the flywheel was where it was supposed to be.

I'm thinking maybe I'm dealing with an exhaust restriction?

Thanks for the help.

 

[sachsmo]

My little 5100 will do the same thing.

Really not a bad thing, means you have stout compression.

It could have slipped and slightly advanced, usually when they shear a key they move far enough it won't start at all.

I have a 143 that will hurt you if you are not real serious when pulling it over!

 

[sachsmo]

Dunno if the little "black box" has a retard for starting, could be that?

 

[w8ye]

You cannot be timid to start one of those.

Approach it with determination that you are going to start it.

Give it everything you got when you pull it.

I have a Dolmar 111 and if you do give it a honest pull, it will jerk the cord through your fingers and wrench your hand.

Other than that, it starts just fine.

I also have a 5105 (with the, so called, early "Easy Start") It will not jerk the handle through your fingers but it is hard to pull over. It starts just fine but you are lucky to get it through more than one compression stroke when you pull on it. It has a lot of compression.

 

[hoeyrd2110]

my 540 is very hard to pull...but the missing base gasket may have something to do with that:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[rayvil01]

Thanks for the help

I guess she's just a mule at heart. I'll put a bigger pull handle on it and take it from there. Thanks.

 

[leeha]

Sounds like your flywheel key was in two pieces.
If thats the case your timing was off and can cause
a hard pulling saw if the timing is advanced.





Lee

 

[67L36Driver]

On the really nasty 'wants to run backwards' saws in my collection I have resorted to the cushioned 'D' handle from Lowes.

In particular a Homie XL-800 (no comp. release) and an XL-101 (170 psi and undersize recoil pulley).

 

[rayvil01]

Sounds like your flywheel key was in two pieces.
If thats the case your timing was off and can cause
a hard pulling saw if the timing is advanced.





Lee

Thanks. Odd-looking key. It was in two pieces, but the way it separated the flywheel should not have moved. My initial instinct was that timing had slipped. That sandwich-looking key was the closest I came to a smoking gun. I've got a replacement and spare coming. We'll see if that makes a difference. Thanks again.

 

[rayvil01]

On the really nasty 'wants to run backwards' saws in my collection I have resorted to the cushioned 'D' handle from Lowes.

In particular a Homie XL-800 (no comp. release) and an XL-101 (170 psi and undersize recoil pulley).

Thanks for that tip. That's a serious handle. I have an old 8 hp Briggs engine on a little leaf shredder that's going to get one of those!

 

[67L36Driver]

Thanks for that tip. That's a serious handle. I have an old 8 hp Briggs engine on a little leaf shredder that's going to get one of those!

Back up the knot with a small flatwasher.

The rope that comes with them is crap.