Burvol
Bullbuck
The bottom looks pretty square to me. A compand angle is what it amounts to.
Having trouble cutting pine trees
- Thread starter Mustangous
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wvlogger
Rock trucker
dropthe saftey chain is number 1 to me go and get a stihl rmc chain but if you keep the saftey little more angle on the top plate and get a little more hook on the teeth. some of them look pretty straight up and down. and drop them rackers
Burvol
Bullbuck
I'll agree, and say that safety chain you have is worthless. You need a bar and chain combination that is 3/8" pitch, .050 or .058 gauge chain... Semi chisel is fine I guess (which is what your tooth is), but I'd recommend full chisel.
Here are a couple things on your chain pics... Hope it helps some.
OK, the top plate angle is a little shallow, but too much "top hook" and the saw gets aggresive, then dull after a few knots.
.30 is a tad low for full comp chain. .25 is what you need. More cutters doing the work, no need to go lower, you'll be bogging and too grabby. Also, are you left handed? The one side of your chain is filed more than the other.
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
wvlogger
Rock trucker
thanks metals
BlackenedTimber
ArboristSite Operative
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What a headache...
I know this is a dead post, but I just gotta say it:
For the price you paid for 2 craftsman saws, you could have easily gotten your hands on a new Stihl 290, or even splurged and gotten your self the 361, which is hands down a phenominal saw. Or ebay an 066 and never worry again.
It sounds to me that A) you need to be using better quality chain. Oregon makes a good chain, but the professional stuff has better quality metal and harder cutter teeth than anything you will find at Lowes (LOWES or HOME DEPOT is NOT where you buy chainsaws/chains/parts/etc.) or get yourself some Stihl Full Chisel, B) because the chain you are using sucks, you are probably not letting the saw chain do the cutting, so you are probably putting too much weight/force on the bar, which is causing your bar to wear out, which is further complicating your problem, and C) just suck it up and get a Stihl. Or get a Husky. Whatever, just throw those Craftsman boat anchors into a dumpster, ANY dumpster, and pretend you never owned those pieces of :censored:.
There is no reason why you should have any problems with cutting pine with a new bar and chain, other than operator error, whether it be filing or maintenance or running the saw. No offense, but many, many members on this site have years of experience felling, bucking, sharpening, and operating chainsaws. I commend your enthusiasm, however, the common misconception is that felling a tree is a simple task, and just about anyone can do it.
It is true that anyone can do it. My Gramma could probably muster enough strength to heft one of my saws long enough to fell a tree. However, many of us have entered into a life-long dedication and appreciation of the true art that is tree care.
Good luck, and for godsakes, DO NOT HURT YOURSELF OR ANYONE ELSE.
I leave you with this: BUY A STIHL. The 361 cures cancer.
I know this is a dead post, but I just gotta say it:
For the price you paid for 2 craftsman saws, you could have easily gotten your hands on a new Stihl 290, or even splurged and gotten your self the 361, which is hands down a phenominal saw. Or ebay an 066 and never worry again.
It sounds to me that A) you need to be using better quality chain. Oregon makes a good chain, but the professional stuff has better quality metal and harder cutter teeth than anything you will find at Lowes (LOWES or HOME DEPOT is NOT where you buy chainsaws/chains/parts/etc.) or get yourself some Stihl Full Chisel, B) because the chain you are using sucks, you are probably not letting the saw chain do the cutting, so you are probably putting too much weight/force on the bar, which is causing your bar to wear out, which is further complicating your problem, and C) just suck it up and get a Stihl. Or get a Husky. Whatever, just throw those Craftsman boat anchors into a dumpster, ANY dumpster, and pretend you never owned those pieces of :censored:.
There is no reason why you should have any problems with cutting pine with a new bar and chain, other than operator error, whether it be filing or maintenance or running the saw. No offense, but many, many members on this site have years of experience felling, bucking, sharpening, and operating chainsaws. I commend your enthusiasm, however, the common misconception is that felling a tree is a simple task, and just about anyone can do it.
It is true that anyone can do it. My Gramma could probably muster enough strength to heft one of my saws long enough to fell a tree. However, many of us have entered into a life-long dedication and appreciation of the true art that is tree care.
Good luck, and for godsakes, DO NOT HURT YOURSELF OR ANYONE ELSE.
I leave you with this: BUY A STIHL. The 361 cures cancer.
treeguydavid
New Member
the other reply you have is good advice
make sure you count your file strokes on each tooth and do the same on both sides as well as useing aflat file on the rakers a common rule for this is for every 3 strokes of the round file take 1 stroke with the flat file good luck and be safe
make sure you count your file strokes on each tooth and do the same on both sides as well as useing aflat file on the rakers a common rule for this is for every 3 strokes of the round file take 1 stroke with the flat file good luck and be safe
Mustangous
ArboristSite Lurker
Thats a good tip! Thanks!
After i bought a full chisel chain online its been great! it was definitly the saftey chain...
