Help with 372XP

[TJACK]

I need some referrals for someone that you consider absolutely the very best at trouble shooting problems with saws. Over the last 4 years, yes 4 years I have had my Husqvarna 372XP to 3 different dealers in an attempt to fix my saw. The last guy had it for the last 16 months and he finally just sent it back without a bill stating I can't find the cause (this guy also build hot saws and work saws). Everyone agrees there is a problem, although knowone can find the cause. I hate to just trade it in and give the problem to someone else because I wouldn't want someone to do it to me.

I am sure everyone wants to know what the problem is, so here it is:

The saw is in a cut and seems to lay over loosing RPM's. You can really hear it when you are wearing muffs.

Things that have been done.

1. Adjusted the carb using a tach may times all 3 dealers
2. Changed Carb
3. Changed ignition
4. Changed plug
5. Replaced the bottom end crank and bearing assembly

Nothing seems to even affect the problem. I am at my wits end!!! My 357XP will out cut my P372XP even bearing down in a 16" red oak log.

Please help,

Jim

 

[THALL10326]

I need some referrals for someone that you consider absolutely the very best at trouble shooting problems with saws. Over the last 4 years, yes 4 years I have had my Husqvarna 372XP to 3 different dealers in an attempt to fix my saw. The last guy had it for the last 16 months and he finally just sent it back without a bill stating I can't find the cause (this guy also build hot saws and work saws). Everyone agrees there is a problem, although knowone can find the cause. I hate to just trade it in and give the problem to someone else because I wouldn't want someone to do it to me.

I am sure everyone wants to know what the problem is, so here it is:

The saw is in a cut and seems to lay over loosing RPM's. You can really hear it when you are wearing muffs.

Things that have been done.

1. Adjusted the carb using a tach may times all 3 dealers
2. Changed Carb
3. Changed ignition
4. Changed plug
5. Replaced the bottom end crank and bearing assembly

Nothing seems to even affect the problem. I am at my wits end!!! My 357XP will out cut my P372XP even bearing down in a 16" red oak log.

Please help,

Jim

Are you saying it's losing way more Rpm's than it should in the cut?, as in bogging down way more than it should???

 

[TJACK]

Yes, kind of like the pitch goes down a few octives and you can feel it in the cut. Just to let everyone know, I cut about 8 full chords of firewood a year, my saws husky 359. 357XP, 026 and 015 stihl, plus the 372 XP.

I am just trying to say, I have experience and it is not normal. Come to think of it, I ran my friends 371XP (older saw) and there is no comparison to my 372.

Jim

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Lakeside53 or Stihltesh would be the ones "in the know".

Was a pressure/vacuum test done on the saw?

 

[buck futter]

What color is the plug. This will tell you if you are having a problem because of a lean mixture or something else. what is you compression like. you could have a cracked ring and it may do this. Who did the work is it a pp372?

buck

 

[TJACK]

Rich,

I was hoping you would reply. I talked to you a few years back about where to get a modded saw, since we both live in PA. How about the guy who does the mod work on your saws?

Jim

 

[THALL10326]

Yes, kind of like the pitch goes down a few octives and you can feel it in the cut. Just to let everyone know, I cut about 8 full chords of firewood a year, my saws husky 359. 357XP, 026 and 015 stihl, plus the 372 XP.

I am just trying to say, I have experience and it is not normal. Come to think of it, I ran my friends 371XP (older saw) and there is no comparison to my 372.

Jim

Well it seems odd they would replace the lower end of the saw. The crank just tranfers the power of the engine, has little to do with making any power. Bad seals on the crank bearings would cause problems but that again would not call for replacing the crank. Seems to me the problem rests within the cylinder, since looking at your list its about the only thing that hasn't been replaced. Has the piston/cylinder been tested for hairline cracks that open up when hot? Has the saw been pressure and vac tested for leaks? Has the tank vent been checked as well, loss of fuel in the cut means loss of rpms. Has a compression test been done? Those weren't on your list. Finally and foremost has this saw done this since new??? If so I'd say the problem rests with the cylinder and psiton...

 

[buck futter]

Hey
look at that the champ and I are in agreement hehehe.
thall I like the line. You've replaced everything else.

I want to know who the pro is.

basically
two tests

compression and plug color
what do ya got

 

[TJACK]

The guy that had the saw for the last year and a half wanted to change the lower end as he thought it may be a bent crank. The answers to most of your questions is NO, those things have not been checked to my knowledge, vaccum, compression or looking for a crack in the cylinder. Yes, it has done it since new. The pro saw builder was the one who had it for the last year and a half and lets just say he lives East of Ohio and West of New Jersey, North of Maryland and South of New York. I am not looking to bash anyone.

The plug looks normal to somewhat rich, but I run the mix at 40 -1.
Now that you know a little more, how can these things be checked given the local guys here in PA can't seem to find it? I do have a vaccum gauge, but wouldn't know where or how to check for vaccum on a saw. How do you check for a cracked cylinder?

Thanks,

Jim

 

[sugarbush]

The guy that had the saw for the last year and a half wanted to change the lower end as he thought it may be a bent crank. The answers to most of your questions is NO, those things have not been checked to my knowledge, vaccum, compression or looking for a crack in the cylinder. Yes, it has done it since new. The pro saw builder was the one who had it for the last year and a half and lets just say he lives East of Ohio and West of New Jersey, North of Maryland and South of New York. I am not looking to bash anyone.

The plug looks normal to somewhat rich, but I run the mix at 40 -1.
Now that you know a little more, how can these things be checked given the local guys here in PA can't seem to find it? I do have a vaccum gauge, but wouldn't know where or how to check for vaccum on a saw. How do you check for a cracked cylinder?

Thanks,

Jim

to find a crack in the piston or cylinder you put in an oven. very easy test. a find it hard to believe a pressure/ vac test wasn,t done.

 

[buck futter]

fair enough,
no bashing

just wondering the capabilty and future encounters, also if it was someone on here maybe they could shed some light.

buck

 

[TJACK]

The person who was working on the saw used to post on here all the time although I do not see him any more.

Jim

 

[sugarbush]

The person who was working on the saw used to post on here all the time although I do not see him any more.

Jim

have a pressure/ vac test done and make shure they do the vac test. the leak may only show with that test. but if a new crank was put in you usually replace seal's at the same time.

 

[TJACK]

Sugarbush,

Who can perform a vac pressure test? You said that to check for a crack just put the cylinder and piston in the oven? Please explain temperature and how this is done.


Buck Futter,

The person you are referring to was the last one who worked on the saw.


THALLl10326,

Could you post more information, you seem knowledgable

If anyone is willing to take a look at this saw please let me know,

Jim

 

[Uwharrie]

I would first check the crankcase for a leak as has already been discussed on here. If it has a leak, This will make a saw run crazy. If you have had it checked out by Pro's, what is the RPM of the saw in the cut and out of the cut? Is there any modifications done to piston or cylinder? If not I would think maybe it's a timing issue. I have seen ( don't laugh ) flywheels get the magnetism reversed by people beating them off with a hammer and hitting the magnets. You mentioned they changed ignitions and I wondered whether the parts were new or old parts? Tony

 

[Lakeside53]

The guy that had the saw for the last year and a half wanted to change the lower end as he thought it may be a bent crank. The answers to most of your questions is NO, those things have not been checked to my knowledge, vaccum, compression or looking for a crack in the cylinder. Yes, it has done it since new. The pro saw builder was the one who had it for the last year and a half and lets just say he lives East of Ohio and West of New Jersey, North of Maryland and South of New York. I am not looking to bash anyone.

The plug looks normal to somewhat rich, but I run the mix at 40 -1.
Now that you know a little more, how can these things be checked given the local guys here in PA can't seem to find it? I do have a vaccum gauge, but wouldn't know where or how to check for vaccum on a saw. How do you check for a cracked cylinder?

Thanks,

Jim

Thought it might have bent crank? I sure hope you don't have to pay for that baby... It's easy to check for run-out in centers and with a decent dial indicator.

If your servicing tech was any good he would have done a pressure/vac test - he might have done it without you knowing.

You can check for a cracked cylinder by pressure/vac testing, and visual - you'll see the leaks generally.,

 

[Four Paws]

I kind of read through this thread rather fast, but I don't recall anyone suggesting a problem with the clutch might be the cause of his woes. If the cluth is slipping, it will make the saw slow in the cut and could bog it from time to time.

 

[THALL10326]

I kind of read through this thread rather fast, but I don't recall anyone suggesting a problem with the clutch might be the cause of his woes. If the cluth is slipping, it will make the saw slow in the cut and could bog it from time to time.

Good point there. I considered that too but he said the saw was losing rpms in the cut. If the clutch was slipping seems the motor would keep on reving but little cutting. He said the sound of the engine was as though it was a slower pitch. Even so though that clutch should have a look see to make sure, it certainly wouldn't hurt..

 

[THALL10326]

Sugarbush,

Who can perform a vac pressure test? You said that to check for a crack just put the cylinder and piston in the oven? Please explain temperature and how this is done.


Buck Futter,

The person you are referring to was the last one who worked on the saw.


THALLl10326,

Could you post more information, you seem knowledgable

If anyone is willing to take a look at this saw please let me know,

Jim

You need a flange to make the pressure and vac test easy. Can be done without but not nearly as easy. Lets see what you've got so far. A new crank was put in so the cylinder had to come off. Surely the tech looked over the piston while he had it apart. Its not likely he would put the piston back in with cracked rings so condiser the rings ok based on that. I'm still baffled about them replacing the crank but beings its new surely they replaced the seals at the time. So lets go gettter done, follow me.

If I were you before going any farther on that saw I'd do this. Take it to a local Husky dealer and have them vac/pressure test the saw, nothing else, just the test. If possibe stand there while they do it so you can see the gauges, nothing like seeing for yourself. That has to be done to get a idea of what is going on with the engine. Assuming there are no leaks and knowing the piston has already been checked when they replaced the crank you will then know whether the fault lies within the engine itself. You have replaced the carb and coil. Now lets say the engine proves to be not leaking at all. New carb, new coil, lets assume both are good, no reason they shouldn't be, so where does that leave you, fuel supply. Gas line may be faulty,meaning not fully open all the way through, tank vent may be faulty, not working properly and finally the fuel filter. All those items are cheap and that saw is well worth items before canning the saw. Talking 20.00 bucks for those parts and maybe 20.00 for the test. Is that saw worth 40.00 more dollars to you, if so get those tests done.

Should the tests show indeed there is a leak you will know right away what all your problems have been.....Get that saw tested....

 

[sugarbush]

Sugarbush,

Who can perform a vac pressure test? You said that to check for a crack just put the cylinder and piston in the oven? Please explain temperature and how this is done.


Buck Futter,

The person you are referring to was the last one who worked on the saw.


THALLl10326,

Could you post more information, you seem knowledgable

If anyone is willing to take a look at this saw please let me know,

Jim

any shop can do a leak test and probobly was done. as for heat test remove piston and cylinder,clean and dry thoroughly, put in the oven about 300 for 15 min. a cracked piston will be obvious but i use a small mag lite in the cylinder. but a cracked piston or cylinder is rare. have you tried losening the gas cap when it start's to lose rpm's? If this has been going on since it was new, why didn't the dealer fix it or replace the saw? was the saw modifyied in any way? I think there's to many unknown's to fix it over the internet. I have a lot of thought's on it as i'm shure everyone else does to, but i would think the shop that had it for a year and half would have checked everything possible.