Help with home made splitter

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Luno14

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OK, so I ran across this site and decided to register since there seems to be a lot of knowledgeable people who may be able to answer a few questions about a home made log splitter that I bought off of eBay?
I don't know how long this thing has been sitting but it appears it's been awhile? It had an old B&S 5 HP motor and a pump that has a tag that says "Northern Inc", it has a cylinder that has "Prince" and it's rated at 2500 psi.
The B&S motor had no spark so a friend of mine gave me a 6.5 HP Kohler engine that worked along with a pump that has "GRH CBT-13/1.8" stamped on it, I put them on the splitter and it splits wood, does it split good? IDK? It does split that's about all I can say. It's my first time ever owning one.
The valve has no identifying marks other than "Made in the USA" , "A", "B", "In" and "Out"?
I would like to add a pressure gauge but don't know which port to put it at nor do I even know if the hose's are in the right ports? So guy's, any help would be appreciated!
 
You will "T" the pressure gauge into the line labeled "IN". This will the the high pressure side of the circuit. Usually this is done at the valve with the gauge hard plumbed to the valve (using steel fittings instead of hose). Then connect the hose to the end of the "T" you just used to install the valve
 
OK, sounds simple enough! As far as ports A and B, should the hose or line from the back of the cylinder be on port A or port B?
 
It really doesnt matter. most people have the lines plumbed so the handle moves to extend the cylinder when pulled. if pushing the handle feels more natural to you then you can plumb them that way. either way is fine

edit... if you have a detent valve then you want the return stroke on the cylinder to be in the detent position. if you have the extend on the detent things can get dangerous
 
Jakers is correct. In is the line coming from the pump to the valve. Out is the line going from valve back to tank. a&b are your cylinder ports. The port for the detent should be plumbed to the rod end of the cyl as this is the end that pressure retracts the cyl for return. Your valve may or may not have detent. If it does, you should be able to push/pull the lever and in one direction the valve will self center, and the other direction, the valve stay activated. If the valve self centers in both directions when you release the lever, your valve does not have detent.
 
and be sure to use fittings that are rated for high pressure.

or else.

Normal pressure fittings are fine. Start buying 10000psi "aka high pressure" or higher stuff and you'll pass out at the prices.
 
Jakers is correct. In is the line coming from the pump to the valve. Out is the line going from valve back to tank. a&b are your cylinder ports. The port for the detent should be plumbed to the rod end of the cyl as this is the end that pressure retracts the cyl for return. Your valve may or may not have detent. If it does, you should be able to push/pull the lever and in one direction the valve will self center, and the other direction, the valve stay activated. If the valve self centers in both directions when you release the lever, your valve does not have detent.
OK, apparently the valve does not have detent since it self centers once you release the handle.
I was just looking at it today and noticed that the line coming from the pump to the valve is only 1/2" shouldn't that line be at least 3/4"?
 
A 1/2in hose will flow about 12gpm at 20ftsec, a 1/2in pipe will flow about 19gpm at 20ftsec
3/4 hose=27gpm@ 20ftsec, 3/4 pipe =33gpm@20ftsec.
What size is your pump. if they where pulling it with a 5hp motor, it probably isnt over 11gpm in the low pressure mode and would probably only be around 3 or 4 gpm in the high pressure mode. If this is so, then changing out the fitting and hoses for larger wouldnt provide much of any benefit
 
I believe by the numbers he posted he changed to a 6.5 hp engine and what I assume is a 13 gpm pump. Still fine either way
 
Here is the only info I have for the current pump, I'm thinking it's like 13gpm ( photo #1 )?
This is the original pump that was on it and other than the metal stamp I have no other info for it ( photo #2 ).IMAG0813.jpg IMAG0786.jpg
 
[QUOTE="
edit... if you have a detent valve then you want the return stroke on the cylinder to be in the detent position. if you have the extend on the detent things can get dangerous[/QUOTE]
What makes it more dangerous on the extend than the retract? If an operator cannot keep their limbs clear of pinch points or need a warning label. . . perhaps they should not be around or operating any machinery. . .
 
[QUOTE="
edit... if you have a detent valve then you want the return stroke on the cylinder to be in the detent position. if you have the extend on the detent things can get dangerous
What makes it more dangerous on the extend than the retract? If an operator cannot keep their limbs clear of pinch points or need a warning label. . . perhaps they should not be around or operating any machinery. . .[/QUOTE]

After you cut your fingers, hand or arm off, come back and let us know how well depending on personal responsibility and reflexs works out for you. If you dont think it can happen to you, them maybe you are the one that shouldnt be around any equipment. I am not trying to be insulting or uppity in any way shape or form with that statement. I just have to assume you might be ignorant as to the possible dangers.

The way the detent works is it allows you to activate the control lever and the lever stay engaged, allowing you to remove your hand for doing other things. Once the CV is placed in the detent position, the cyl willl continue to move until a set relief pressure is met by the hydraulic system. If Detent is used to extend the cyl, and you accidently get your body parts in a pinch point, that cyl isnt going to stop extending until you lose that body part. Skin and bone wont slow down a hyd system designed to slice and dice a piece of wood. Chances are that if you are extending the cyl, some part of your body is going to be in close proximity to the cyl, hbeam, wedge, and wood being split. You turn and stumble and place your hand on the wood to catch yourself and the cyl can promptly wack your hand off. It wouldnt be a matter of simply releasing the control valve, because it is in detent position and going to just keep cutting until the pressure is met that kicks it out of work position.

They do make auto cycle valves that detent in both directions for almost hands free operation. Lots of folks use them. I wont. I just like my body parts to much to risk one little mistake that can change my life forever. I think the only reasson most people that do use autocycle valves, is that they think, feel, believe, it increases productivity. They can load a round on the splitter, activate the CV and turn away to get another round while the machine finishes splitting the firts round. For a home owner machine, the extra few seconds you might save between splitting rounds shouldnt be necessary. The only actual time they save is the amount of time it takes the cyl to extend, and they dont even save that if the round has to be resplit because they are standing there waiting on the cyl to retract anyways. Even with a auto cycle valve, if system pressure reaches the detent setting on the splitting stroke, and it can on hard to split wood, then you still have to manually activate the CV to continue splitting the round. So if you turn to get another round to split and the cyl stops mid split, you have to drop the round you just picked up and turn back to the splitter and manually activate the CV to continue the split. With my type of wood, that would aggravate me to no end. I would endup standing at the CV, with my hand on the lever until I knew the round would be fully split before i could turn to get the next round. Not worth the extra expense to me.

A CV that detents in one direction is what most all factory splitters come with. You hold the lever while the wood is split and then just push the lever in the detent position for cyl retraction, where it will stay until the cyl is fully retracted. It works for me because I would have one hand on the CV until the wood was fully spit anyways with a autocycle, valve so the time actually saved, with a ACV, might only be a couple of seconds at best.

You can use what ever kind of valve you wnat to use, but I wouldnt ignore safety aspects simply because you think the operator should be smart enough to not make mistakes. They can and they do, you can and you will.
 
Couldn't be said any better! I don't have any plans on changing the valve unless I have to, I'm OK with the way the lever works now.
When I plumb in the gauge should I keep it up against the valve housing? Will that give me the most accurate reading?
 
one thing to keep in mind when mounting a gauge is where its least likely to be in the way. if it hinders your hand placement on the valve then its not in a great spot. if it can be hit by falling or manuvering large diameter wood, its not in a great spot. placement can be anywhere from the pump to the valve inlet on the pressure line
 

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