Help with Lewis winch

[AT sawyer]

I'm looking for advice on how to best MOUNT a Lewis winch so it will not roll or torque during operation. Here is how I will be using it:

I will be hauling 500lb bundles of black locust logs up a 32 degree slope on a highline. The project is for a trail repair on this slope, and getting volunteers to carry 100lb+ logs on a freighter frame pack is asking too much, particularly since the project will be using hundreds of logs. The highline is 200' and tensioned with a TU-28 Griphoist. The Lewis winch is fitted with 250' of 1/8" cable, which has a better than 4:1 safety factor for the load size we will be hauling. We will be running the winch line through at least one, possible two snatch blocks to keep the pull STRAIGHT (yes I know that the blocks will reduce my maximum pull due to friction and that will be taken into account to keep the job safe).

The winch is in my garage and I'm trying to figure out how to best anchor it. The Lewis website shows it connected to a peavy on a stump (always nice to have God put a stump just where you want it.... I'm not counting on that magic). I think I need to have two chains or straps at a 90+ degree angle relative to the winch. I also think I may need to make some kind of anchor plate and run lag bolts through it into a stout log set perpendicular to the winch. Are these worthwhile ideas? Any suggestions?

 

[Jacob J.]

Those are pretty decent ideas. Keep in mind you'll be pulling a dynamic load and however you're anchored in your anchor points will be subject to some shock loading during the haul. If I use straps or chains on a chainsaw winch, I run them back at about a 30-45 degree angle instead of 90 degrees. A perpendicular log is okay as long as the log itself can take a large load with minimal chance of rolling down the hill. If I anchor to a log usually it's vertical on the slope.

Have you considered one of those dirt anchors that people use for pulling 4x4s out when there's no stumps around?

 

[AT sawyer]

I have a ground anchor made from 1" steel plate. It has four holes -- three for the 3-foot steel anchor bars and one for a shackle. It's a heavy beast and works well in dirt. However, we're on a rocky mountainside with little soil above the bedrock. I'll probably start with light loads until I get a feel how the winch operates. We'll have a Stihl 044 pulling it.

 

[2dogs]

Your Lewis winch should always sit on a stump or a block. One or two anchors don't seem to make much of a difference. Let's say for instance you will work at the back of a pickup truck. Anchor to the truck and then cut a block or better yet build a crib stack that puts the winch in the direct line of pull. If this can not be done then you can anchor the winch to a tree, build your crib stack to a convenient height and run the winch line to a directional pulley (dp) near the ground and to another dp up in a tree near your Tirfor "skyline".

If you have alot of winching to do then your stump or crib stack should be notched to hold the saw/winch from rocking. Make sure you check the winch fairlead often as you can wear through one in no time if the it does not roll.

BTW 7/16 wire rope with the end brazed soild works just fine in my Tirfor.

 

[AT sawyer]

Excellent. I thought about the two pulley configuration as a way to keep the winch low and in-line with the pull. They don't call it a highline for no reason; it's well up in the tree to keep the wire from requiring too much tension.

I braze my rope too...... never did learn how to weld or cut with a torch. Works just as well for that application and I can do it with Mapp gas.

 

[2dogs]

Excellent. I thought about the two pulley configuration as a way to keep the winch low and in-line with the pull. They don't call it a highline for no reason; it's well up in the tree to keep the wire from requiring too much tension.

I braze my rope too...... never did learn how to weld or cut with a torch. Works just as well for that application and I can do it with Mapp gas.

I remove the core for about 6" then rewrap the strands and braze them together. The brass is easy to gring and taper so it slips into the Tirfor easily. The Tirfor (Griphoist) rope is super expensive.