Hi all

[Brewdawg]

Hi all,
Been lurking on and off a couple years now. Finally I had to create an account. I'm out in Greybull Wyoming at the base of the Big Horn mountains. I'm more or less a hobbyist and cut around 10 cords a year for firewood. Lots of mechanical background with everything thing from wrenching on trucks and motorcycles, helicopters, airplanes, oilfield equipment and currently working in a plant for a bentonite mining operation. The reason I joined is to try to find information and advice on an old chainsaw I am trying to resurrect. It is a Dayton 2Z463B the rebadged poulan 245 SA. According to the old man it's one badass saw, but the oiler is not working. She's awfully dusty, been sitting for probably 25 years. Just picked her up last night. I also have a few other saws that I run and tinker with. So anyway I'm looking forward to being a member and learning and contributing to the community.
-Rob

 

[farmer steve]

Hi Rob . Welcome to AS. LOTS of good people with lots of knowledge. Was in the Big Horns when I was 8 years old . Stihl remember it. See if we can get @Bobby Kirbos here. He recently rebuilt a Dayton like yours and may have some tips/tricks for you.
Steve.

 

[Brewdawg]

Thanks Steve! Should be an awesome saw. I've cut a fair amount of wood off that mountain but the winters here....... someday I might move to warmer a climate. ( PS I think I posted in wrong spot)

 

[farmer steve]

No particular new member thread. Chainsaw forum is the best place to get info . Firewood and heating is another of my favorites forums. Good luck on getting the Dayton running .

 

[Bobby Kirbos]

Hi Brewdawg. I've attached the IPLs and service manual for you.

You'll definitely want to do a carb rebuild, fuel lines, and crank seals. You will need to take the top half of the fuel tank off to get to the lines in there. I kept the original gasket and added a small bead of Permatex #2 to help seal it. I also put some on the bolt threads and around the bolt head. Also, there is a foam gasket between the fuel tank/handle assembly. You need to replace this gasket. I used a fat bead of the same Permatex for this as well.

Oil pump not working -
Best case, you just need to clean and regrease the auto-oil mechanism. Worst case, you're digging into the oil tank itself. You'll need to take the oil tank off anyway to get to the crank seals, and that involves opening up the auto-oil mechanism - convenient.

There are really no "gotchas" that I can think of. It is a 3D jigsaw puzzle though.

@Acornhill is a good resource for parts.

Just a suggestion - If yours is a points saw, dump the points and install one of those universal solid state ignition modules.

 

[farmer steve]

Hi Brewdawg. I've attached the IPLs and service manual for you.

You'll definitely want to do a carb rebuild, fuel lines, and crank seals. You will need to take the top half of the fuel tank off to get to the lines in there. I kept the original gasket and added a small bead of Permatex #2 to help seal it. I also put some on the bolt threads and around the bolt head. Also, there is a foam gasket between the fuel tank/handle assembly. You need to replace this gasket. I used a fat bead of the same Permatex for this as well.

Oil pump not working -
Best case, you just need to clean and regrease the auto-oil mechanism. Worst case, you're digging into the oil tank itself. You'll need to take the oil tank off anyway to get to the crank seals, and that involves opening up the auto-oil mechanism - convenient.

There are really no "gotchas" that I can think of. It is a 3D jigsaw puzzle though.

@Acornhill is a good resource for parts.

Just a suggestion - If yours is a points saw, dump the points and install one of those universal solid state ignition modules.

 

[Brewdawg]

Awesome thanks so much. Gonna try to print these off! Are there good part numbers for the crank seals? I've been doing some reading and it seems that a few different ones might work. Well I'll keep you guys updated on what I find.!

 

[Brewdawg]

Greetings, Dayton is still on the back burner but I picked up what appears to be a 245 A. It has a short bar and no compression release though. Serial number on the cover is 627382 but I suppose that don't mean much on a saw this old. Has 125 lbs of compression and seems to run good. Gonna have to find a few little parts but is useable as is.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Nice saw, loved that era Poulans.