Ho, ho, ho, Jolly Star Grinder Review

[mtngun]

Christmas came a little early this year, when Santa dropped off a Jolly Star Grinder. Santa had to pay $320 plus shipping from a former AS sponser.

The Jolly Star is made by Tecomec and appears to be the same as the Speed Sharp sold by Baileys. Both appear identical to the Oregon 511ax except the 511ax has an adjustment to compensate for wheel wear and the Jolly Star/Speed Sharp doesn't.

The Jolly Star/Speed Sharp/511ax have a self centering vise, which is supposedly better than the vise on the 511a and its Northern Tool copy.

The assembly instructions were not very clear, but I muddled through it.

I ran into difficulty tightening the screw that attaches the grinding wheel to the motor. The screw was a stiff fit in the motor shaft threads, causing the motor shaft to spin as I tried to tighten the screw. I ended up using pliars to hold the motor shaft, not a cool solution.

Later I chased the threads in the motor shaft with a 6mm tap, and then the screw fit better and could be tightened while holding the grinding wheel, no pliars required.

I made a wooden base for the grinder.

The wooden base is then clamped in a bench vise, since I don't have enough bench space to permanently mount the vise.

There was no noticeable side to side runout on the grinding wheel, but there was a little vibration because the grinding wheel was not perfectly centered on the motor shaft. The vibration was less after I dressed the wheel and ground a chain.

OK, so how well does it sharpen ? I didn't have any dull chains just then, so I re-sharpened a 0.325" chain that happened to be handy. I measured each cutter to check for consistent length. After developing a "feel" for the grinder, I was able to keep cutter lengths inside a 0.003" window.

However....... after switching from the right side to the left, and not making any other adjustments, the cutter lengths changed about 0.025". That's unacceptable. Once I became aware of the problem, I readjusted the cut so that both sides were equal length equal, and from now on I'll be sure to adjust separately for both sides, measuring with calipers to ensure equal cutter lengths.

Considering my $30 Harbor Freight grinds both sides without needing to readjust, I was a little disappointed in the Jolly Star's unequal grind. Nonetheless, I will learn to work around the Jolly Star's weaknesses just as I learned to work around the HF's weaknesses.

Even though I was only taking a light grazing cut, some of the cutters got hot enough to turn blue near the edge, and some of the cutters had burrs (I can see a cyclone wheel in my future). By comparison, the $30 HF grinder rarely leaves burrs and rarely overheats cutters. Perhaps the smaller diameter wheel used by the HF grinder has a slower surface speed ?

It was dark and 10 degrees F outside, so I didn't have a chance to test the chain, but I'm sure it'll cut OK and I'm sure I'll gradually learn to produce better results with the Jolly Star.

Was it worth the $320 ? Unlike the plastic HF unit, the Jolly Star is hell for stout and should outlast me. Once I get used to it and learn to compensate for its shortcomings, it'll crank out excellent chains.

Still, the main reason I sprung for the Jolly Star instead of a 511a or NT clone was because of the supposedly superior vise, yet it turns out the vise doesn't automatically produce equal length cutters on both sides. If I had to do it over again, I'd take my chances with a NT grinder and use the savings to buy a cyclone wheel or two.

 

[toyfarm]

Excellent write up!
Thanks for taking the time to post!!

 

[biggenius29]

Still, the main reason I sprung for the Jolly Star instead of a 511a or NT clone was because of the supposedly superior vise, yet it turns out the vise doesn't automatically produce equal length cutters on both sides. If I had to do it over again, I'd take my chances with a NT grinder and use the savings to buy a cyclone wheel or two.

I am in the market for a new grinder because I hate the fact that I do one side of the chain then I have to measure those cutters and readjust the chain for the other cutters.

Is there a grinder that will do both sides of the chain the same so there is no need to measure them?

 

[dq72]

I've had the Oregon 511a about 2yrs now & it took a couple times of grinding my own chains to get a feel for it. But now it's not bad at all. It still takes me 10-20 minutes to do a chain. I usually stop & check a few teeth with my calipers just to make sure their up to par. Once in a while I hafta readjust the vice to keep the chain centered but I've learned to live with it. Around here the saw shops get 5-8 bucks to sharpen a chain. I figured it's already paid for itself considering all the chains I have plus I sharpen alot of chains for friends. It was a good investment for me.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Good right up.

Interesting though on the difference between the left and right cutters.

I have the same grinder and mine seems to be very very close between the two when switching from side to side.

Mine did have a spell for awhile on doing what you describe but I can't remember what it was. I know it was something I was doing wrong and it had to do with tilting the vise.

 

[Saw Dr.]

I noticed the variance in cutter length when changing from right to left. I was able to take most of that out by loosening the allen bolts that hold the vise assembly on the tilt bed and shifting it. There is some "wiggle room" between those fasteners, and the bed. I meant to drill the assembly, and drive a few roll pins in there when I got it perfect. Like so many other things, it slipped through the cracks and never happened.

 

[mtngun]

Is there a grinder that will do both sides of the chain the same so there is no need to measure them?

I wondered the same thing and was hoping the Jolly Star's much touted chain vise would be the solution. It's possible that my vise could be tweaked a little to give better results, or it is possible that I need to be more careful when I reposition the vise for the other side. If I find a fix I'll update this post.

I forgot to mention that I was using the 10 degree tilt angle on this test chain. That adds one more variable because the tilt has to be changed when switching from left side to right side. If I have time, I'll try grinding a chain with 0 degree tilt and report the results.

Quality control does seem to be hit and miss with all brands of grinders. One guy says his grinder produces equal lengths, another guy with the same grinder says they are uneven.

 

[biggenius29]

Quality control does seem to be hit and miss with all brands of grinders. One guy says his grinder produces equal lengths, another guy with the same grinder says they are uneven.

But is the guy who says they are all equal lengths actually measuring them?

 

[Modifiedmark]

But is the guy who says they are all equal lengths actually measuring them?

Yep I did!

Seems to me that I was not getting the vise tilted right from side to side.

There are marks on the side that need to be lined up each time it is adjusted.

 

[brncreeper]

I've used the Bailey's CBN wheel on mine since it was new. It's expensive ($180) but it maintains it's shape and I've ground dozens of chains.

I got my jolly star grinder from amicks for $300.

I see you put sharpie L R marks on yours too!

 

[biggenius29]

Yep I did!

Seems to me that I was not getting the vise tilted right from side to side.

There are marks on the side that need to be lined up each time it is adjusted.

Once you got everything lined up right were you able to get it so both L+R cutters were ground the same?

On a side note, has anyone had any luck with the MAXX, or is it a problem with all these grinders?

If you jump up to the really expensive grinders (Silvey) is their engineering able to solve the problem?

 

[Modifiedmark]

Once you got everything lined up right were you able to get it so both L+R cutters were ground the same?

I would say so.

There sure close enough I have not bothered to meausre them for the longest time.

 

[danrclem]

Can the vice lock be adjusted or shimmed to give a different centering point? If that can't be done could you file some material off of one side of the vice lock where it holds the chain to give a different centering point?

 

[SteveH]

[
On a side note, has anyone had any luck with the MAXX, or is it a problem with all these grinders?

[/QUOTE]


I've been using a Maxx since maybe last Jan. or Feb., don't recall but I like it. I have not measured cutters. However, when actually using the chain I get straight cuts and that tells me I have to be really close with the sharpening. And I mean straight cuts all the way through 28"+ diameter trunks.

I don't have a way to measure the cutters with accuracy...might know someone who can loan me something and I'll try to remember to borrow it and post my results when I do. Though, as I said, I'm getting perfectly straight cuts and that tells me what I need to know....

Don't know anyone else with a Maxx so cannot say whether mine is different from other examples of the make/model.

 

[mtngun]

Update on the Jolly Star:

I finally had a chance to generate a few dull chains that needed sharpening. First, I took the vise apart to see if there were any obvious defects that might explain the unequal cutter lengths. Actually, all the castings looked great, no obvious burrs. Nonetheless, I hit the tilting part of the vise lightly with emery cloth, cleaned it up, sprayed it with graphite lube, and reassembled.

Now the tilt movement seemed much smoother, and the detents were more positive.

Then I started setting up to sharpen a chain. I had left my bifocals in the house, and kept thinking "I really ought to go get the bifocals because I can't see what the heck I am doing without them" but I didn't want to make the trip through the snow.

The chain was stuck in the vise for some reason, so I turned the vise handle counterclockwise, and the next thing I know, something snapped. &*%^$!!!! :bang:

A piece of the tilting vise had broken completely in two.

At first I assumed the part was defective, but after fetching my bifocals so I could examine the vise carefully, I figured out what happened.

The chain was a milling chain, which is kinda narrow. The entire chain, not just the drive links, had slid into the vise jaws. That's why the chain seemed to be stuck. Since I didn't have my glasses on at the time, I had no clue, and just assumed that I needed to open the vise a little more. As a result, the vise jaw bumped into the piece below it and that snapped it off.

It's thin at the break. Little effort was required.

In hindsight, the vise is a weak design, just waiting for some klutz like me to come along and open it too far. Still, I'm not blaming anyone but myself. If I had taken the time to put my glasses on, this would not have happened.

I'll have to order a replacement piece. Oh well, it's winter, not much sawing going on.

Just thought I'd share this so that anyone who owns a Jolly Star/Speed Sharp/511ax is aware of what can happen and doesn't make the same mistake I did.

 

[7sleeper]

Update on the Jolly Star:

...
The chain was stuck in the vise for some reason, so I turned the vise handle counterclockwise, and the next thing I know, something snapped. &*%^$!!!! :bang:
..
A piece of the tilting vise had broken completely in two.

At first I assumed the part was defective, but after fetching my bifocals so I could examine the vise carefully, I figured out what happened.

The chain was a milling chain, which is kinda narrow. The entire chain, not just the drive links, had slid into the vise jaws. That's why the chain seemed to be stuck. Since I didn't have my glasses on at the time, I had no clue, and just assumed that I needed to open the vise a little more. As a result, the vise jaw bumped into the piece below it and that snapped it off.

It's thin at the break. Little effort was required.

In hindsight, the vise is a weak design, just waiting for some klutz like me to come along and open it too far. Still, I'm not blaming anyone but myself. If I had taken the time to put my glasses on, this would not have happened.

I'll have to order a replacement piece. Oh well, it's winter, not much sawing going on.

Just thought I'd share this so that anyone who owns a Jolly Star/Speed Sharp/511ax is aware of what can happen and doesn't make the same mistake I did.

Outch! That is real bad luck! :bang::bang:

Thanks for sharing! I am sure that your bad luck will help some fellows here stay out of the pitfall.

Reped ya for sharing your bad luck!

7

 

[7oaks]

I made a wooden base for the grinder.

The wooden base is then clamped in a bench vise, since I don't have enough bench space to permanently mount the vise.

Rep for the wooden brace idea. I'll borrow it if that is okay with you. I so seldom use my grinder I hate to keep it set up all the time with the limited bench space.

Sorry to hear about the broken part. Good luck with obtaining the replacement part!

 

[Modifiedmark]

Update on the Jolly Star:

I finally had a chance to generate a few dull chains that needed sharpening. First, I took the vise apart to see if there were any obvious defects that might explain the unequal cutter lengths. Actually, all the castings looked great, no obvious burrs. Nonetheless, I hit the tilting part of the vise lightly with emery cloth, cleaned it up, sprayed it with graphite lube, and reassembled.

Now the tilt movement seemed much smoother, and the detents were more positive.

Then I started setting up to sharpen a chain. I had left my bifocals in the house, and kept thinking "I really ought to go get the bifocals because I can't see what the heck I am doing without them" but I didn't want to make the trip through the snow.

The chain was stuck in the vise for some reason, so I turned the vise handle counterclockwise, and the next thing I know, something snapped. &*%^$!!!! :bang:

A piece of the tilting vise had broken completely in two.

At first I assumed the part was defective, but after fetching my bifocals so I could examine the vise carefully, I figured out what happened.

The chain was a milling chain, which is kinda narrow. The entire chain, not just the drive links, had slid into the vise jaws. That's why the chain seemed to be stuck. Since I didn't have my glasses on at the time, I had no clue, and just assumed that I needed to open the vise a little more. As a result, the vise jaw bumped into the piece below it and that snapped it off.

It's thin at the break. Little effort was required.

In hindsight, the vise is a weak design, just waiting for some klutz like me to come along and open it too far. Still, I'm not blaming anyone but myself. If I had taken the time to put my glasses on, this would not have happened.

I'll have to order a replacement piece. Oh well, it's winter, not much sawing going on.

Just thought I'd share this so that anyone who owns a Jolly Star/Speed Sharp/511ax is aware of what can happen and doesn't make the same mistake I did.

Well that just blows.

After looking at your pictures, I see your chain vise rails are a littler different then mine

Mine was one of the first ones to hit the market so maybe they changed them some.

If it makes you feel better, I have to keep a set of readers close by when doing most of anything like that now!

 

[Freyboy23]

Christmas came a little early this year, when Santa dropped off a Jolly Star Grinder. Santa had to pay $320 plus shipping from a former AS sponser.

The Jolly Star is made by Tecomec and appears to be the same as the Speed Sharp sold by Baileys. Both appear identical to the Oregon 511ax except the 511ax has an adjustment to compensate for wheel wear and the Jolly Star/Speed Sharp doesn't.

The Jolly Star/Speed Sharp/511ax have a self centering vise, which is supposedly better than the vise on the 511a and its Northern Tool copy.

The assembly instructions were not very clear, but I muddled through it.

I ran into difficulty tightening the screw that attaches the grinding wheel to the motor. The screw was a stiff fit in the motor shaft threads, causing the motor shaft to spin as I tried to tighten the screw. I ended up using pliars to hold the motor shaft, not a cool solution.

Later I chased the threads in the motor shaft with a 6mm tap, and then the screw fit better and could be tightened while holding the grinding wheel, no pliars required.

I made a wooden base for the grinder.

The wooden base is then clamped in a bench vise, since I don't have enough bench space to permanently mount the vise.

There was no noticeable side to side runout on the grinding wheel, but there was a little vibration because the grinding wheel was not perfectly centered on the motor shaft. The vibration was less after I dressed the wheel and ground a chain.

OK, so how well does it sharpen ? I didn't have any dull chains just then, so I re-sharpened a 0.325" chain that happened to be handy. I measured each cutter to check for consistent length. After developing a "feel" for the grinder, I was able to keep cutter lengths inside a 0.003" window.

However....... after switching from the right side to the left, and not making any other adjustments, the cutter lengths changed about 0.025". That's unacceptable. Once I became aware of the problem, I readjusted the cut so that both sides were equal length equal, and from now on I'll be sure to adjust separately for both sides, measuring with calipers to ensure equal cutter lengths.

Considering my $30 Harbor Freight grinds both sides without needing to readjust, I was a little disappointed in the Jolly Star's unequal grind. Nonetheless, I will learn to work around the Jolly Star's weaknesses just as I learned to work around the HF's weaknesses.

Even though I was only taking a light grazing cut, some of the cutters got hot enough to turn blue near the edge, and some of the cutters had burrs (I can see a cyclone wheel in my future). By comparison, the $30 HF grinder rarely leaves burrs and rarely overheats cutters. Perhaps the smaller diameter wheel used by the HF grinder has a slower surface speed ?

It was dark and 10 degrees F outside, so I didn't have a chance to test the chain, but I'm sure it'll cut OK and I'm sure I'll gradually learn to produce better results with the Jolly Star.

Was it worth the $320 ? Unlike the plastic HF unit, the Jolly Star is hell for stout and should outlast me. Once I get used to it and learn to compensate for its shortcomings, it'll crank out excellent chains.

Still, the main reason I sprung for the Jolly Star instead of a 511a or NT clone was because of the supposedly superior vise, yet it turns out the vise doesn't automatically produce equal length cutters on both sides. If I had to do it over again, I'd take my chances with a NT grinder and use the savings to buy a cyclone wheel or two.

Looks like Santa hucked you up big time!! You must have bin a good boy this year. hahah well good luck with the new sharpener man!!

 

[mtngun]

Just got word from Tony at the former AS sponser regarding the broken piece. Tecomec will be sending me a replacement piece :rockn: , even though I told them the break was due to my own clumsiness.

They never did tell me the cost of the broken piece, but Baileys lists the vice assembly for about $100. :censored:

It is a weak design, with nothing preventing the moving part of the vise from pushing against the bottom casting until it snaps -- and it snapped easily -- so learn from my mistake and be gentle when you are opening the vise. There's no logical reason to open it that wide, but Murphy's law always applies.