Homelite Chainsaws

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Was there much involved in making the Stihl bar work?

It wasn't too bad. I had some nuts laying around that fit the large mount bar slot perfect, drilled them out to .375 to slip over the bar studs. then I used the factory homelite bar and traced, and trimmed the tail end of the stihl bar then drilled the oil holes and adjustment holes.

The only hiccup was the factory stihl oil holes had an aluminum bridge on each side of the hole, I guess its to help keep the oil from leaking back down the bar? those had to be filed out Because the drives would hang up on them. I used a hacksaw blade to file them out.
 
It wasn't too bad. I had some nuts laying around that fit the large mount bar slot perfect, drilled them out to .375 to slip over the bar studs. then I used the factory homelite bar and traced, and trimmed the tail end of the stihl bar then drilled the oil holes and adjustment holes.

The only hiccup was the factory stihl oil holes had an aluminum bridge on each side of the hole, I guess its to help keep the oil from leaking back down the bar? those had to be filed out Because the drives would hang up on them. I used a hacksaw blade to file them out.

Right on, don't think I will bother hacking up one of my big Stihl bars as I have my 925 up for trade...

I heard the big Husky bars are pretty easy to adapt though; may try one if I keep the saw.
 
Picked this gem up today at a garage sale. I believe it is another xp 1020 maby a super. 140 comp might restore this one.


with its twin and the guard dog


now the question is witch one gets to wear this?
 
Well, I bit the bullet and filed out one of my 32" Husky bars for my Super XL 925...

What a wicked noodle machine! Almost as good as my 660 but I think it sounds better...:)

AF26A06B-19D8-42BE-986B-07FCA28B7851_zpsrijz37jq.jpg
 
It happened again... These old Homelites have a bad habit of just showing up. Yesterday it was a free 330 (sorry, wasn't excited enough to take pics) today it was a CL 450. Not perfect shape, but 4 pulls had my compression gauge at 180+ with likely a bit to go. At that point I paid the man and told him to call me if he has anymore saws or parts. He texted me later about a much older Homelite in his dads barn... We'll see!

The 450 has some issues. The recoil has some ghettofied hardware. Appears to have silicone or something around all the fuel lines where they exit the air box, which in general is a bit of a messimage.jpg image.jpg . Missing the bumper spike, and wearing a Husqvarna bar. But pretty much intact.

Edit: woohoo! She's a runner! Popped in a new plug, some fresh mix. Fired first pull. Pig rich and smoky, idles and revs pretty good. I'm anxious to throw some old school chips!
 
The oil and fuel tanks are part of the same unit with the crankcase housing. The fuel tank is in the front and the oil tank section is behind. There's a cover with a gasket that seals both the fuel and oil tanks. I'd guess most likely the "L" section of the gasket where the two tanks touch started leaking due to pressure from the boiling gas.
P1000025.jpg

Dan
 
The oil and fuel tanks are part of the same unit with the crankcase housing. The fuel tank is in the front and the oil tank section is behind. There's a cover with a gasket that seals both the fuel and oil tanks. I'd guess most likely the "L" section of the gasket where the two tanks touch started leaking due to pressure from the boiling gas.
View attachment 359271

Dan

Thanks for the info....probably should drain and clean the tanks and apply some sealant to that area.

Any recommendations?
 
It may be a good idea to make sure it's really leaking where you suspect. Do you have a pressure source like a blood pressure bulb, or low pressure (5-10 lbs) air compressor and a pressure gauge? After emptying the gas and bar oil, connect a pressure line where the fuel line comes out of the tank and tee it with the gauge. I'd use some plastic wrap and screw down the cap. The plastic wrap will keep from blowing out the duck bill on the cap and make sure its sealing up there. Apply pressure and pressurize the fuel tank. Notice the gauge and see if its leaking down. If its bad, you can probably hear it. If its slow, you might put a little kerosene in the bar oil tank to see where the bubbles are leaking through.

This sounds like a lot of trouble, but I'd want to know for sure where the leak is, and how bad it is. If its leaking at the seam where the gasket is where the two tanks touch, I can think of a couple choices. Hardest way would be to separate the tank, smooth the surfaces, and put in a new gasket. Those philips head screws can be a pain to remove. May need to heat, and use an impact tool to get 'em loose. I've never used the stuff, but guess the easiest way would be to get some gas tank sealant and apply inside the fuel tank.

Dan
 
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