Homelite Chainsaws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
HP carb versus an HL carb on the latter. I wonder which I'd prefer...

Chris B.
Duuuuuuuuhhhhhh.......the HL?????. Thanks. I've dealt with one HP and that is enough.
Started to tear this down tonight. Looks pretty complete and in good shape except for the always missing recoil cover. Looks like it has a safety chain - didn't know they made them back then.
 
OK, need a little education here from the experts..
Just picked up a mostly complete (Muffler is loose, missing outlet similar to old echo) craftsman branded Homelite 450. Haven't done a thing other than pull it over to see if there was compression and pulled over smooth. It did. Price was right for a 70+cc saw.
What are any pitfalls on this saw?
It's really decent looking overall. Rim drive setup on it.
 
OK, need a little education here from the experts..
Just picked up a mostly complete (Muffler is loose, missing outlet similar to old echo) craftsman branded Homelite 450. Haven't done a thing other than pull it over to see if there was compression and pulled over smooth. It did. Price was right for a 70+cc saw.
What are any pitfalls on this saw?
It's really decent looking overall. Rim drive setup on it.

They are known to swap fluids through the oil tank and fuel tank internal separator. This one has that issue.
amadyder.jpg



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
I just put together a Homelite 330 with a new boot, fuel lines, etc. The saw will start and run but I noticed a miss upon acceleration. The saw kicks back a little during starting and I read where the timing is fixed so I guess I can't adjust it other than removing the flywheel key and retarding it a bit that way. I suppose I might also elongate the bolt holes in the module. Anybody gone through this before?
 
I just put together a Homelite 330 with a new boot, fuel lines, etc. The saw will start and run but I noticed a miss upon acceleration. The saw kicks back a little during starting and I read where the timing is fixed so I guess I can't adjust it other than removing the flywheel key and retarding it a bit that way. I suppose I might also elongate the bolt holes in the module. Anybody gone through this before?

I found they will also kick back if the high side is set too rich. The Homelites seem to have the timing set a little aggressively.
 
I'll try leaning it out a bit. Already tried richening it up and that sure didn't work! I didn't notice the kick back before the boot replacement which was real lean then. I've got the carb screws set on about 1 1/4 turns out which is more than it was when I got the saw. If this doesn't help I guess I'll have to tear it all apart again and retard the timing about 1/2 inch.
 
I'll try leaning it out a bit. Already tried richening it up and that sure didn't work! I didn't notice the kick back before the boot replacement which was real lean then. I've got the carb screws set on about 1 1/4 turns out which is more than it was when I got the saw. If this doesn't help I guess I'll have to tear it all apart again and retard the timing about 1/2 inch.
Try 1 turn on each if 1 1/4 is more than it was before the re-fresh.

Lee
 
I tried it at one turn and it still kicks back but not as much. I'll try to tune it in a little more when I have the time to warm it up. I still haven't received the air cleaner that I ordered for it and have been starting it without one. I'll try it in wood when the air cleaner arrives.
This model of Homelite appears to be the big brother to the 150 in that you have to take it all apart to do just about anything to it, except you can remove the carb on the 330 without a tear down.
 
I refreshed a 360 (35SL) and have not been able to get it to run right. New boot, lines carb kit etc but so far no joy. Being a little frustrating I put it aside for other projects. I have to tune a few saws for sale so may not get back to it until the fall. I really like my small Homelites like the Super Mini and EZs.
 
I'll try leaning it out a bit. Already tried richening it up and that sure didn't work! I didn't notice the kick back before the boot replacement which was real lean then. I've got the carb screws set on about 1 1/4 turns out which is more than it was when I got the saw. If this doesn't help I guess I'll have to tear it all apart again and retard the timing about 1/2 inch.

I just checked my 330... H=1-1/4t, L=1-1/8t Choke on...fast idle on...4 pulls till pop...choke off...2 pulls to scream.
It was a free saw...due to claimed intermittent EI (I verified this). I changed the EI/coi l(IIRC$40ebay) . (refreshed carb components and rubber boot) success.... I really really like it. It's biggest flaw is low oiling of the chain, so keep an eye on that. good luck, unfortunately good skill trumps good luck...LOL
 
Hey guys, is there a trick to installing the fuel line with the built in grommet in a sxl 925 tank? I've already broken one trying to pull on it from the inside. As much as these things cost, I don't want to break any more. The one that broke may have been a little dry rotted, and the new one seems better, but i'm still hesitant to pull too hard. Thanks.
 
Hey guys, is there a trick to installing the fuel line with the built in grommet in a sxl 925 tank? I've already broken one trying to pull on it from the inside. As much as these things cost, I don't want to break any more. The one that broke may have been a little dry rotted, and the new one seems better, but i'm still hesitant to pull too hard. Thanks.
Some of those lines are new old stock which means they may be pretty old. On these saws I use regular fuel line and improvise a grommet with a piece of bigger fuel line or shrink tubing or both..Also I generally use silicone spray on the line and the hole to make it go in easier.
 
I just checked my 330... H=1-1/4t, L=1-1/8t Choke on...fast idle on...4 pulls till pop...choke off...2 pulls to scream.
It was a free saw...due to claimed intermittent EI (I verified this). I changed the EI/coi l(IIRC$40ebay) . (refreshed carb components and rubber boot) success.... I really really like it. It's biggest flaw is low oiling of the chain, so keep an eye on that. good luck, unfortunately good skill trumps good luck...LOL
Yeah, I noticed the oiler isn't the best so I put a 16" bar on it which might be better than the 20 incher. I don't know exactly why but when I got it together the last time it quit missing. I changed the plug (again) installed a foam air filter on it and put the bar and chain on it. It still kicks back slightly when starting but it doesn't have that annoying miss when it accelerates.
I wonder if there's any mods I can do to that oiler to make it better?
 
Yeah, I noticed the oiler isn't the best so I put a 16" bar on it which might be better than the 20 incher. I don't know exactly why but when I got it together the last time it quit missing. I changed the plug (again) installed a foam air filter on it and put the bar and chain on it. It still kicks back slightly when starting but it doesn't have that annoying miss when it accelerates.
I wonder if there's any mods I can do to that oiler to make it better?

The little oiler pump just to the rear of the carb has a diaphragm that is crankcase impulse driven and of course the gas, but especially the E-10, eventually harden the diaphragm. NOS ones are not that easy to find. I think as new, they were probably adequate . I almost had to make one myself but I finally found one.
I wonder if you have a bad EI? Mine does not kick back at all.
330d.jpg
 
Some of those lines are new old stock which means they may be pretty old. On these saws I use regular fuel line and improvise a grommet with a piece of bigger fuel line or shrink tubing or both..Also I generally use silicone spray on the line and the hole to make it go in easier.


Thanks a palmer. I used a little silicone to put the line in- worked great. She's now up and running!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20140622_202046248.jpg
    IMG_20140622_202046248.jpg
    71.2 KB · Views: 10
The little oiler pump just to the rear of the carb has a diaphragm that is crankcase impulse driven and of course the gas, but especially the E-10, eventually harden the diaphragm. NOS ones are not that easy to find. I think as new, they were probably adequate . I almost had to make one myself but I finally found one.
I wonder if you have a bad EI? Mine does not kick back at all.
330d.jpg
I think the 330's are sharp looking unit. I've got a 360(35sl) giving me some heartache. Does the 330 have AV?

Lee
 
Back
Top