I agree with Lee. It looks like an early XL-12.
Here's an IPL.
Here's an IPL.
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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The oil line looks different than my XL12. Mine runs behind the cover next to the top of the cylinder. That's what shows in the IPL.
Maybe they made them both ways?
Maybe they made them both ways?
crazy4saws
ArboristSite Member
Thanks fossil for the IPL! I feel stupid for asking this but on page 3 drive case and oil pump, it appears that the part#12 is the crank seal on the clutch side however when you scroll down to page 4 part #12 is not listed. On page 5 engine internals part#19 looks to be the flywheel side seal and is listed as 12282A however quantity is only 1. Are the seals the same or different on both sides? Thanks for the help!
There were many iterations of the Homelites. To get the correct IPL you would need to have the UT number which would be on the tag on the saw which quite often is missing.
crazy4saws
ArboristSite Member
22360342 that's whats stamped on a silver plate located by the kill switch. But it doesnt look like this is a good number for the XL-12 series saws
That IPL is somewhat confusing.
The PTO (clutch side) is most likely a 12282A which crosses to an SKF 6119 seal. The flywheel side may be the same or not. I would recommend that you change both sides on an old saw.
The SKF 6119 seal is for a shaft size of 0.6250 inch
The OD (case bore) that the 6119 seal fits is 0.8750 inch.
You should be able to pull the clutch (and oil pump if it's a auto oiler) and check these dimensions with a vernier caliper.
The flywheel side varies depending upon when it was built. It could be the same as the clutch side....or not.
Let us know what you find.
crazy4saws
ArboristSite Member
Believe it or not Tim I actually installed an skf 6120 seal in this saw which is OD .879 instead of the OD .875 which is for the skf6119. However when driving it in the seal kinda collapsed. Possibly because it wasn't the perfect fit. I will confirm the measurements and then order the correct seal. Really appreciate your input and help Tim.
May have collapsed because it was too big, but then again they can certainly be tricky.
crazy4saws
ArboristSite Member
I tried 2 of the 6120 both collapsing, so I decided I would try and get the OEM so I knew it was the right size. Also my digital calipers are from harbor freight so pinpoint accuracy could be hit or miss when I measured the holes the first time.
There's rarely a model number there but there is usually a serial number and a UT number. Your saw SN 22360342
which tells you, in order
2 indicates built on assembly line 2
2 indicates it was built in 1972
360 indicates the calendar day of the year it was built
342 denotes the 342's saw down line 2 that day
The 6120 seal is the same as the 6119 except that he 6119 has a dust seal lip. If the 6120's aren't going in, the 6119 shouldn't be any better.
If you do order a NOS Homelite seal, would you please mic the seal OD and let us know what it is?
which tells you, in order
2 indicates built on assembly line 2
2 indicates it was built in 1972
360 indicates the calendar day of the year it was built
342 denotes the 342's saw down line 2 that day
The 6120 seal is the same as the 6119 except that he 6119 has a dust seal lip. If the 6120's aren't going in, the 6119 shouldn't be any better.
If you do order a NOS Homelite seal, would you please mic the seal OD and let us know what it is?
I'm not sure about your XL-12 but some saw cranks have a sharp step the seal has to get over right by the case bore where the seal goes. That can cause seal damage on installation.
If you do have that, cut a short section of 1/2" copper plumbing tube. Leave the one end rolled by the tube cutter and make the other end a saw cut. Deburr, grease the tube and the seal lips and slide the seal onto the rolled end and place the copper tube (square cut end against the step)
over the crank snout and leave the tube in place until the seal lips are over the step.That could be your problem or not, but it does help get the seal over the step without damage.
I mostly use a 1/2" drive deep well socket and a large flat washer to drive in seals. Also deburr the edge of the housing bore. A swatch of .003 brass shim stock gets the seal lip over the shaft shoulder.
crazy4saws
ArboristSite Member
Ok, Here are the exact measurements of the crank where the seal sits. OD .869 ID .624. I already have a 6119 on order so when it comes I'm gonna give it a try.
I always used a socket or made a driver out of pipe to fit the seal on the top of the OD of the seal. It usually works but maybe it's time to change my methods?
I always used a socket or made a driver out of pipe to fit the seal on the top of the OD of the seal. It usually works but maybe it's time to change my methods?
I just measured two 6119's I picked up last week. The OD on both is 0.8755"
That sounds a little tight. The nominal press fit tolerance is 0.005" and you are about .0065 or so. You may want to put a bit of grease on the OD before you install them.
I use a 5/8" deep impact socket that is just a hair over the 7/8" bore and it works well for me if I'm careful.
They should go in OK. Do pay attention to that sharp step on the crank if there's one there.
Let us know how you make out.
I'd suggest not using the 6120, as it's only a single lip seal design. The fitment(sizes) of those seals are the same though. Tim gave you nominal
bore, not seal OD. Sounds like you had an installation error there.
Always chamfer the hole with a dull pocket knife if the bore edges are sharp.
http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/popup_parts_lookup_457010.htm
Honest John
ArboristSite Operative
Ok...bunch of questions. I picked up a couple of 900 series homelites yesterday, one of which was painted red and green. It had been sitting outside under a tarp under a foot of snow for quite a while and after I dug it out it blew 180 psi and fired up pretty quickly. So here's my questions
- How do I identify these saws if the paint is gone from the bar cover. Are they badged somewhere with a serial number ?
- Does anyone have suggestions for spray paint ? I could color match, but I'm sure the red and green that's on there now is a little sun faded. If I'm going to pay for color matching, I'd just assume get the original homelite color
Thanks
- How do I identify these saws if the paint is gone from the bar cover. Are they badged somewhere with a serial number ?
- Does anyone have suggestions for spray paint ? I could color match, but I'm sure the red and green that's on there now is a little sun faded. If I'm going to pay for color matching, I'd just assume get the original homelite color
Thanks
Honest John
ArboristSite Operative
Here's one of the saws in question. I did an internet search but the only two tone, green and red saw I've seen like this is a c9.
It might be one of these.
Honest John
ArboristSite Operative
Yep, I think that's it. Why do so many of these have two different colors ? Is it just that they were all canibalized for parts over the years because they are so interchangeable , or did they actually sell them this way ?
They had many color combinations, sometimes different color schemes on the same models.
Not sure why. We'd have to find a marketing guy that worked there. I think many of their saws were painted up pretty nicely. Lots of two tone saws.
This paint scheme is one of my favourites.
Not sure why. We'd have to find a marketing guy that worked there. I think many of their saws were painted up pretty nicely. Lots of two tone saws.
This paint scheme is one of my favourites.
