check out your coil HV wire (i.e.-spark plug wire). just recently went through that myself. maybe its the wire or maybe not. if you replace it you'll know that wire is definitely good. just sayin
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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towingace
ArboristSite Guru
How strong of a spark is it? If it's obviously weak, that's one thing, if it's questionable, then I would eliminate the other usual variables such as compression, vac test, wiring, etc. Even though you've gone through the fuel system, I would still dribble a little mix in the cylinder, to eliminate the possibility of a fuel problem. Just my 1 cent.
Check flywheel alignment for correct timing, too. (Just the other 1 cent.)
Did check key for sheared and it's ok.Spark was weak and not steady when testing.Reason I wondered not coil it seemed like it reacted ok increasing gap (retard) and saw didn't kick back/when I lowered the coil (advance) got a few more kick backs.Compression is great.Saw still has writing on the bar and sprcket shows little use.Normal I'd get a coil but know nothing about this transformer.Thanks
lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
There's a spring inside the transformer cup that contacts the tip of the spark plug. I've seen these springs be corroded or broken before. Also, there's contacts on the plastic transformer mounting piece. One of them (I think its the left side) needs to have a good contact with metal. I've seen cases where all that's needed to fix spark is just cleaning these contacts.
Dan
Dan
Thanks everyone,I went for a coil.I feel contacts are all clean testing wise.I'll post up when it arrives.David
have you done resistance checks on your coil? with and without coil wire?
points can be tested w/light or ohmmeter
sawnami
Addicted to ArboristSite
Gently pull on the wires coming out of the pickup coil and module assembly. See if the insulation stretches right where the wires enter the coil. This can cause a frustrating fire and no fire situation from the broken wire as it makes and breaks connection inside the insulation.
Sent from my SM-N910V
Sent from my SM-N910V
lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you have a meter and want to check out the transformer, here's some pics from awhile back that gives an idea of readings.
Dan
Dan
ft. churchill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Those are the same readings I got on my 360 transformer.
Thanks much guy's.I saw that post on the transformer but didn't know if my meter would do that.Since I saw it again and in a round about way have both parts coming asked electrians at work about the test(got to check my meter or get a different one).Anyway as soon as parts arrive I'll get back on it,for now got to finish an 075.Dave
ft. churchill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hey I just went out to the shop and took readings on a NOS ignition coil unit that I just got for the 350/360/450/550/650/750 series of homelite saws. This is the unit at the flywheel, not the trans former at the spark plug. Here's what she read....... .926 kilo ohms terminal to ground. 62.2 ohms lead to ground. .984 kilo ohms terminal to lead. I hope this helps someone to trouble shoot this ignition system.
Thanks,I'll have to get another meter.Sad part is I don't think owner will be able to start it.OK just a Free HF tester but transformer tested like post.Lack of sleep and no fire made I didn't remove and check coil .Think I'll wait and compare to new when it arrives.Thanks for now!!! Dave
roosterhog
ArboristSite Operative
Alright Dads, what does it mean when the Hi adjustment screw has absolutely no effect when you turn it? My Homie XL 901 (that will be the death of me) idles great and runs great at full throttle until you put it in wood. Then it acts like it starves for fuel and almost dies about 2 seconds into the cut. I figured it needed to run richer. I adjust the hi speed and no effect whatsoever. Has a new carb kit in it.
Will run all day until you put it in wood. Any help would make me sleep better. Thanks!
Will run all day until you put it in wood. Any help would make me sleep better. Thanks!
homelitejim
Full of Scrap
Try fattening up your low needle first, increase idle , then fatten up the hi.
roosterhog
ArboristSite Operative
Homelitejim: I fattened it up til it wouldn't idle.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
homelitejim
Full of Scrap
I was having a similar issue with another brand of saw which was running too lean no matter how much I opened the high needle. So I fattened up the low till it wouldn't run then increased the idle set screw till it would run, then was able to adjust the high until it 4 stroked at wot no load.
homelitejim
Full of Scrap
I had to play with the low jet screw and idle set screw a bit before the carb let me hit the sweet spot on the hi jet. This particular saw is known for having a temperamental carb after a good woods port, usually homie carbs are not so bitchy.
roosterhog
ArboristSite Operative
About how many turns did you end up with on each?
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