Bought a xl 100 circular saw in what looks to be good condition. Gives indication that it needs seals replaced. Seal nos from ipl are 58688A and 56256. Anyone got info regarding AM seals (SKF, National, dictomatic, etc). Thanks, jerry
Homelite Chainsaws
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I covet it already! Those things look AWESOME.
An HS-135-A from an XL98 chop saw. Is there supposed to be a welch plug in the opening at the upper right? It has a channel going in the direction of whatever is under the top welch plug which covers what presumably is the 'L' jet needle seat. Can''t get this thing to run right to save my ass. This is the third time around for it and I'm gettin' tired of pulling it over. Thing is a beast and has some type of slight timing advance that bites you every pull to boot. Been quite the challenge all the way around. TIA for any enlightenment as usual.
Had one of these in the junk trunk so took a picture for you. It is just a blind hole on mine. Why there are three steps is a mystery. When trying to help a guy "not getting it to run right" is not much to go on. Mike
this is one off a husky77.
Jamesthebeltman
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Depending on the model homelite i can get you USA ade drive belts !!
Thanks, fellas.
(And belts aren't the problem.)
(And belts aren't the problem.)
I have seen those open passages on the rear of some HS carbs Poge. XL 76/130 and 9xx series. I have wondered about the function. It is not a passage that is opened through an index in the throttle shaft. It is wide open to the idle circuit and is external to any impulse contained by the carb/block gasket. In comparison, HDC's (early) had this additional accelerator circuit that introduced impulse through the idle circuit. This in theory was to back feed fuel into H circuit upon throttle. Supposedly to minimize bogging and the ability to set the L rather lean. Mind you, those carbs had a main fuel supply feedIng the L via the H.
If you blow WD-40 into that port, it enters the Venturi via the idle and transition ports. I have never been able to track down info on the function of it. Low, rich idle control?
Here are a couple pics I just shot. All off Homies. HS-125/131/104. All have ports into idle circuit. In comparison, I checked a couple HS's off Huskies. No ports, mind you, they would be covered regardless, with the extra large gasket.
If you blow WD-40 into that port, it enters the Venturi via the idle and transition ports. I have never been able to track down info on the function of it. Low, rich idle control?
Here are a couple pics I just shot. All off Homies. HS-125/131/104. All have ports into idle circuit. In comparison, I checked a couple HS's off Huskies. No ports, mind you, they would be covered regardless, with the extra large gasket.
On another note, been painstakingly piecing together a couple box o' parts random projects. 4 days in. Lots of time on hand. 73'/74' Super Mini and 76' Super 2. Started with nuts and bolts kind of project. Going to test out my work around retrofit on the check valve in the HDC. Hopefully fire this AM. Being a polite neighbour still.
Was glad the Super 2 was earlier. Would not have enjoyed Medusa's nest of plumbing - lol.
Was glad the Super 2 was earlier. Would not have enjoyed Medusa's nest of plumbing - lol.
Thanks for the input, Cory. And an excellent point about the gasket covering that recess anyway. Never even dawned on me. Duh.
Got this guy running today. A real nice specimen with only a couple dings here and there. Got it awhile back from an area Husky shop who farm out some of their weirder stuff to me. Came with an SXL 925 and Super 2 some of you may recall. I made fairly quick work of the 925. The Super 2 didn't have a good thread left anywhere on it and was basically a basket case. And this rascal was just an intimidating beast sitting there staring at me with "I dare ya" written all over it. LOL My luck isn't usually very good getting into older saws for customers so I try to do em when I have a little more spare time than usual..., which isn't much to begin with.
I pulled covers and looked it over and all seemed in order as far as I could tell considering I've never looked one of these over before. Has been very well maintained with good fuel line and clean filters. Had a bit of relatively clean mix still in the tank that smelled pretty oil rich..., as in what the sticker said. Spark was monster and I had a good feeling. Primed it and it popped. Once I figured out the choke position and the trigger lock I was able to keep it running on a prime until it took right off on its own. Damn! First time I've been this lucky with a saw this old without doin' a thing to it. Was a pretty cool feeling. Now I want to keep it. LOL
Actually, it's one of those sentimental saws that belonged to the customer's dad. He just wanted to hear it run again..., and he probably did from the next county over. (Could probably see the smoke, too!)
Nice machine Poge. I never see that era of Homelites in this part of BC. Thick forests gobbled up many a saw back in the day, I guess. Not many survivors.
I would be curious to see what the XL-98 does if you block off that port. I never have on any of mine with those HS's. It is a pretty significant source of air downstream in that carb. I wish I knew the exact function/operation of that idle/transition circuit and that open port.
Tried out the Super Mini and Super 2 today. The Super 2 slugged hard for what it is. I actually cut up some decent rounds with it and it performed well on the top 1/3 of the tree (< 6-8"). I also ran an XL-1 that I have had the top end off of more times than I can remember. The deck of the cylinder and the case have proven very difficult to get a good seal. And the nuts tend to let go. I think I have it taken care of now.
Super Mini was running a homemade retrofit check for the Walbro 86-523 check assembly. Works like a charm. The HDC was a known leaker into the idle circuit. I just about took a ball peen hammer to it chasing it on another saw. It runs like a new carb now with a little redneckery.
Original screen and circlip with a NOS check on the bottom left. My punched out version on the right.
Installed without pulling the seat assembly.
Reused everything, just because. Passed and checked like a rock.
Super Mini was running a homemade retrofit check for the Walbro 86-523 check assembly. Works like a charm. The HDC was a known leaker into the idle circuit. I just about took a ball peen hammer to it chasing it on another saw. It runs like a new carb now with a little redneckery.
Original screen and circlip with a NOS check on the bottom left. My punched out version on the right.
Installed without pulling the seat assembly.
Reused everything, just because. Passed and checked like a rock.
Corey,
Good work around job right there!
What material thickness did you end up using?, as I’ve used the bulk nitrile oiler diaphragm material with good luck. Thinking it is 0.016”.
Was just watching a Leon’s Homelite vid on repairing little Super 2 oilers, and Leon threw the failed oiler plunger diaphragm #A-12356-B into the trash can... daym it!, as those can be rebuilt like the Poulan S25 ones.
Hi Randy. The first thing I thought of when I saw the impulse diaphragm with button/pintle was the retrofit you came up with on the 25's. Works dandy and I suspect it would be a superior fix for the Super 2's. Although, this one is a bit stiff, it still manages to oil really well.
As parts like the check assembly and 3400/25/Super 2 oiler diaphragms (to mention a couple) are NLA and supplies gone or eventually so, I try my best to work around. I know certain posts probably piss guys off that are stocked up and selling NLA OEM stuff, but I can't afford to get stuff to my door anymore up here with the dollar. I will say, nothing beats OEM if it is available and affordable (to your door). I cringe when a perfectly good assembly/part/pump is pulled and tossed when a little tenacity and industriousness are called for.
I thought about using that sheet stock nitrile that we bought. It is a bit thick at 0.015-0.017", as the OEM checks are only 0.009" +/-. I actually used really old (but healthy) pump diaphragms that clocked in at 0.010".
Here is a link to the full process if AS will let it go through. If not, I ought to do a detailed write up.
https://houseofhomelite.proboards.c...k-valve-assembly-repair?page=1&scrollTo=61829
Thanks for the link, I hardly go to the HOH site anymore.
The $2 Briggs 272538 FP diaphragm may be that thin, I’ll measure a new one. Another option is punching the WA/WT Walbro FP material, its 0.009”. That blue colored acetate diaphragm, that I never use from the Walbro WA/WT carb kits, is really thin at .005”.
Would prob be a lifetime supply of HDC checks from one of those Briggs, for me anyway.
The $2 Briggs 272538 FP diaphragm may be that thin, I’ll measure a new one. Another option is punching the WA/WT Walbro FP material, its 0.009”. That blue colored acetate diaphragm, that I never use from the Walbro WA/WT carb kits, is really thin at .005”.
Would prob be a lifetime supply of HDC checks from one of those Briggs, for me anyway.
.
I'd mess around with it if it were mine, but I need to get it back to the owner asap. He says it was running great before it started leaking fuel and then getting put on the shelf for a year. I've had it quite a while already. Fortunately, he's a very patient guy..., and knows nobody else will work on it. LOL
As for the gasket blocking that port, I gather you were referring to the Husky application? It's wide open on the XL98 and prone to any/all dirt circulating in the air box.
I did finally get the flywheel to pop off after soaking with penetrating juice for a few days. Was hoping to find some advance from a sheared key but it was intact. I'm going to retard it a tad to see if that will aid in reducing the bite back when pulling it over and maybe even have a positive effect on the running issue itself. 'Course that would sorta lean toward a misbehaving coil and a whole new bag o' snakes.
If you'd have been following previously you'd at least know it's not for lack of compression. LOL And since timing is essentially 'fixed' and it has spark you could weld with, that pretty much leaves the fuel system. Reed block looks fine. New fuel lines and filter. The saw did pass a pressure/vac test with flying colors so I'm assuming the block itself is crack free. Reeds are all there and appear seated as they should be.
That gets us to the fixed high jet HS carb with a governor and a mystery hole along with an ignition that bites hard when you pull it over.
I suppose I could try a different carb and coil..., if I had em. Maybe even swap the flywheel..., if I had a spare. But since I don't on all counts, I'm gonna retard the timing a hair and put the carb back on (with its new OEM Tilly kit) and see if I can start it without literally having to stand on it to pull it over. There ain't no drop startin' this pup.
There are 639 pages to "follow previously" give me a break!
I've never seen an XL-98 but from IPL's I gather it has the 3-piece CDI. Generator under flywheel, pickup and coil? I had problems with mine at one point and I swapped the generator. From the literature, the system provided automatic retard at startup and advance through WOT. Clymers just goes over diagnosing the system but doesn't elaborate on the retard/advance element. I didn't read/recall in the Shop Manual, but I am curious if they get into that aspect. IIRC, there was no adjustment rotation allowance provided at the generator under the flywheel. To be honest, when I was wrestling with that ignition a few years ago, I was dead set on trying to fit our Husky coil into the mix. Never did, but still might when/if it arises on another 9xx. If you are getting timing related issues across full range of RPM, including finger busting starts, perhaps something is amiss with that "Pulsar" feature in that ignition.
I'll stay tuned, and if what I mentioned doesn't apply in this case, at least it got me thinking. Probably worth turning that flywheel back a tad as you suggested and going from there.
Here is a link to a 925 brochure that extols the benefits of that 3-piece "Pulsar" system. First time I've looked at it.
https://www.leonschainsawpartsandre...l-925_chainsaw_product_specifcation_sheet.pdf
It's a chop saw..., just a bare bones XL925 with electrinic ignition, no oil pump, and a non-adjustable 'H' HS carb. The tank divider is also removed for greater fuel capacity. Hope to put it together today with the flywheel turned back a hair to see if that makes it easier to start.
I've admittedly had this thing for quite a while now, but not that long. LOL A quick search turns up most of the discussion. Will report back with anything new of interest.
