Sawzilla sells a pretty nice Proline two-piece molded fuel line for that saw. I've used one. Nice, snug fit.
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Patrick1903
ArboristSite Operative
OK, I think you're talking about this set: https://sawzillaparts.com/fuel-line...r-xl-925-sxl925-chainsaw-65718b-65593-65593a/
(EDIT - I see the fuel line set is out of stock right now)
There appear to be replacement Tygon fuel lines currently in the saw, pliable, in decent shape. My fuel leak is coming from the grommet through the tank. I am struggling to find that part on the IPL located here. Can someone point me to that? Or is that grommet built into the replacement fuel line from the link above (that's what I'm leaning towards now!)...The longer of the two lines?
Picture below.
Attachments
The grommet is molded into the line. Depending on how deteriorated yours is, the flare on the metal line may be able to be temporarily rednecked with a few wraps of teflon tape to minimize the leakage there with some Motoseal around the outside diameter to seal it at the tank opening.
Here's an available one -- https://store.chainsawr.com/products/homelite-super-xl-925-chainsaw-molded-fuel-line-65593-new
Leon also has a kit -- https://www.leonschainsawpartsandre...aw_Tygon_Fuel_Hose_Replacement_Kit_FLS24.html
LRB offers one which is probably the same as the Sawzilla line, but 10 bucks more. May be out of stock there as well, but you may not find out until you pay for it. I personally stay away from LRB unless they're the only game in town.
Patrick1903
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks, just purchased from chainsawr.
It looks like the Leon kit uses a difference part, the grommet 68046, to create its own seal - with a hole for the Tygon line. So presumably the Tygon line would have to be stubbed through the grommet, and the metal line would insert into the tygon line inside the grommet, I think?
Regardiless, I'm going the first route with the molded line. But I considered just buying the grommet if that would be a cheaper alternative. It could save a few bucks, but I'll go the 1 piece route.
Thanks!
It's an economical end-to-end roll your own kit. There's an installation video further down the page..., one of many Homelite videos he has on YouTube.
Patrick1903
ArboristSite Operative
Awesome, thanks. I had missed it by not scrolling down. Appreciate it.
FreakinCoolUsername
ArboristSite Member
just bought this 450 today. For only a $100, but of course the intake boot needs done and the carb need rebuilt. BTW how do you get the carb out on these saws, i can't get it.
View attachment IMG_20220211_151425.jpg
View attachment IMG_20220211_151425.jpg
Patrick1903
ArboristSite Operative
Well, that was brutal! Took me 1 hour to get the new line seated in the tank. Tried dish soap, then bar oil. Not fun. Then another 30 mins trying to get the metal elbow into the grommet. That was not at all how I hoped it would go, but at least the saw is no longer leaking fuel.
also put a new filter on. I figured out why my carb was full of debris (inlet screen). Take a look at carb, then old fuel line/filter and grommet.
Never done one, but it looks like it -- sorta like an XL-12? Got the IPL from Leon's site.
Oh wow. It's in wonderful condition.
I'm sure someone has done this before, but I haven't seen it.
An SXL 925 I got a few months ago ran like a turd with the governed carb.
Plugging the governor did nothing, so I decided to plug the orifice under the diaphragm temporally and it worked.
Since I made this vid I tried soldering the orifice hole. I didn't surprise me that it didn't take.
So, I used epoxy. If that don't hold, all it can do is go really rich really fast.
It runs like a 925 should run now.
If you do this be careful. 925's don't last lean.
An SXL 925 I got a few months ago ran like a turd with the governed carb.
Plugging the governor did nothing, so I decided to plug the orifice under the diaphragm temporally and it worked.
Since I made this vid I tried soldering the orifice hole. I didn't surprise me that it didn't take.
So, I used epoxy. If that don't hold, all it can do is go really rich really fast.
It runs like a 925 should run now.
If you do this be careful. 925's don't last lean.
Patrick1903
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks @clint53 . Glad you got it going well. What year is your saw (if you know) and what carb?
I'll look and get back to you.
You could simply pull the points box but I personally prefer pulling the entire plate off. There isn’t much room to get a washer and socket in there though and I hate fumbling with the whole saw.
That saw may have a gasket that you may need to replace if you pull out the bracket though. Some have an o-ring while the older ones have a gasket.
A couple screw drivers to very carefully lift the plate out usually do the trick.
Once you get the plate out you can press the new seal in with a bench vise and socket. That’s how I do them on 902 & 922’s.
Ok , are the points box and coil plate a unit? Or do they have to be separated?
They are separate. The box comes off by unscrewing the condenser and removing the two or three screws that attach the box to the backing plate.
The box will need to come off no matter which method you choose in order to get at the seal.
I ground a socket to a taper so that I can sink those seals in a bit.
These homemade tools get the job done for me.
Attachments
A bit late in this…….but I find that if you cut the new fuel line to a taper and poke a piece of wire into the fuel like you can pull it into the tank very easily.
Fish the wire through the grommet and pull it out of the fill hole. Drop of oil on the fuel line for lube and pull it in.
Slightly difficult to explain but very simple to execute. Best tip I ever got!
Thank you , I know what I'm looking at now.
I think I'll clean up the area first and get it done.
Patrick1903
ArboristSite Operative
Awesome tip. I seriously considered breaking out the xacto knife and throng just that…, but was afraid I would compromise it and end up with another leak. What kind of wire would you use and how would it “grab” the outside of the grommet (to pull it into the tank)? I’m thinking of the fuel line puller tool that comes with small engine fuel lines, like this. https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/lawn-mowers/lawn-mower-parts/7388184
I did use dish soap first, then oil, to try to coax it through. Not sure it would have ever worked without it.
I finally got to really run the saw today. Ran great. Sounds awesome. Here’s a picture of it rescuing my MS250.
