Homelite Chainsaws

[longbar]

Finally got a few minutes to get some pictures of the 750. It's still dirty from sitting around for however long. Looking below the dirt and surface rust it should clean up nicely. I'm looking forward to cleaning this one up and running it.

MP5N

MAN your one lucky SOB. Thats a nice saw!!! Let me know when you wanna get rid of it:msp_biggrin:

That c-71 you got looks nice too. I love the bar on it!!

 

[Wildman1024]

Nice looking 750 and c-71. I like the spacer to run the large stihl mount carlton bar. I have a super 650 that's missing the grill on the starter housing and busted muffler guard. Cannot find them anywhere. Good luck with your 750 its on my list

 

[donthraen]

Here's my C-71 with the 36" Carlton bar. A neighbor gave me the saw about 5 years ago. Until recently it's been sitting in the garage. When I got around to working on it I found it to be in good shape. I took it completely apart, cleaned all of the parts and replaced the bearings, seals, rings and added a new rim sprocket. The felling spike was gone so I made up a new one out of 410 stainless. We just got a nice water jet machine which made this really easy.

In my younger days I raced motorcycles professionally then got into building motors. I've been out of it for a while and this saw got the juices flowing again. So when everything was apart I did some minor porting bumped the compression a hair and added a C9 pyramid style reed cage. I machined the reed sealing faces to allow for a good seal and machined the reed retaining plates to flatten them out. I bought rings from that guy on eBay from Greece. When I got the rings the gap was around .01. I ended up filing a radial notch on the inside of the end gap to allow the rings to clear the alignment pin in the ring grooves of the piston. This allowed for a tighter end gap to help with blow by. This made a nice improvement in how it runs. I can bury the bar in White Ash and she just torques through.

I ended up fitting the large mount Stihl bar on a filler plate up to take up the clearance from the smaller studs. When I was dry fitting the bar I noticed the centerline of the bar studs didn't line up with the centerline of the crank so I staggered the holes to allow the bar to align with the crank. I'm thinking this will reduce some of the friction where the chain exits the bar and engages the sprocket. I also elongated the oiler slot in the side case and guide plate to allow the oil holes to line up better.

All in all it's been a cool project. I burn about 5 cords of wood a year and recently hooked up with a tree guy who will supply me with large trunks so I needed a big saw to make life easy. The 750 I just picked up was a great deal I couldn't turn down. I'm planning on fixing up the C7 I picked up with the 750 to let my neighbors use so I don't get my saws beat up. I'll more than likely do a full restoration on the C9. My kids seem to have the mechanical bug so it'll be a cool project to do with them.

Many thanks to all of the folk who make up this website. There is a huge amount of information and support which makes things easy.

By the way does anyone know this stuff can become addicting?

MP5N

you can work on my c52 any time

 

[little possum]

you can work on my c52 any time

Haha, thats what I was thinkin Don.

 

[donthraen]

I haven't bean on fore a bit how you doing and welcome all you nu bees to having CAD disease

 

[little possum]

Everything is good in this neck of the woods.

Smilin Possum had the 36 bar buried on his S1050A at the TN GTG. Ol saw just chugs along all day.
Everybody noted that my S1050A made more noise though I have yet to get any chain for the 28" roller nose

 

[donthraen]

Everything is good in this neck of the woods.

Smilin Possum had the 36 bar buried on his S1050A at the TN GTG. Ol saw just chugs along all day.
Everybody noted that my S1050A made more noise though I have yet to get any chain for the 28" roller nose

well get that darn chain and get it on maybe they wont notice the noise so much never mind the noise will still be there lol--- I go-to get a chain fore my 28in hard nose going to put on one of my mid-size saws probably the c52

 

[Guido Salvage]

Help me get my 540 back together!

My almost new 540 took a tumble off my rolling storage cart and the rear handle is no more. I bought the saw new and think I have only run 2 tanks through it. Can anyone help with a tank assembly to get me going before the Virginia GTG next month?

 

[longbar]

What do you guys do to get this type of recoil set-up to engage all the time? I am consistently having to take the recoil off and mess with it to get it to engage. i greased it then wiped off as much grease as I could trying to lube the rollers but keeping them fairly dry so they dont slip on the shaft. here is a pic of the set-up I thought I took pics of both parts but the one with the shaft didnt show up on my cam and now the saw is back together.

What do you call this setup too?

 

[RandyMac]

Longbar, I never figured that abomination out either, try a handful of sand.
Just kidding, sort of. No grease, hit it with WD40 and carefully blow it out.
The official nomenclature is "over-running bearing clutch". I have known it to be called other things.

 

[Goball]

Homelite Clutch or Rewind Assy

I call this an "overrunning" clutch similar to the device used in many automatice transmissions of the past and numerous industrial applications. Check the items below:
- the rollers or palls as they are called are worn beyond their useable limit
- the tapered lands that the palls crawl up on when the rewind rope is pulled
are worn or ridged so that the palls won't roll up enough to cause the rollers to
engage the shaft.
- the shaft under the palls is worn so that the palls won't grab the shaft
- a combination of all the above.

You will need to completely dismantle the rewind assy to do a thorough inspection to determine the cause and repair. Hope this helps

 

[Deer Assassin]

need some help

got a homlite super 2 2 trigger saw

runs like a champ dont oil

i disassembled it today

got to lines coming out of tank

1. supply line the metal screen thing was off the oil line as the line was very soft n rubber like

2. was just a line that was in the top of the tank nothing on the end of it


i blew the line from crankcase to oil hole out seemed like there might have been an obstruction

i pulled the pump looking assy apart had a spring and a diaphragm thing
it looked good no tears


help

and where can i get parts for this thing

also if any one has a parts break down would be nice

thanks in advance

 

[longbar]

Longbar, I never figured that abomination out either, try a handful of sand.
Just kidding, sort of. No grease, hit it with WD40 and carefully blow it out.
The official nomenclature is "over-running bearing clutch". I have known it to be called other things.

Thanks Randy, Ill try the wd40 first and if that doesnt work I may try the sand

I call this an "overrunning" clutch similar to the device used in many automatice transmissions of the past and numerous industrial applications. Check the items below:
- the rollers or palls as they are called are worn beyond their useable limit
- the tapered lands that the palls crawl up on when the rewind rope is pulled
are worn or ridged so that the palls won't roll up enough to cause the rollers to
engage the shaft.
- the shaft under the palls is worn so that the palls won't grab the shaft
- a combination of all the above.

You will need to completely dismantle the rewind assy to do a thorough inspection to determine the cause and repair. Hope this helps

Thank you too Goball! i know my polaris atv uses a type of this clutch now but it uses a magnet to engage it. If the wd40 doesnt work I will have to check the things you mentioned! I was hoping for an "easy fix" but most of the time they dont exist or work.

I have a couple part 1020's so may try to take their recoils and use on this saw but was hoping to keep it original.

 

[cbfarmall]

I call this an "overrunning" clutch similar to the device used in many automatice transmissions of the past and numerous industrial applications.

Who here as heard of the IHC torque amplifier. Same principle, bit more sophisticated and every bit as frustrating when it doesn't work.

I think those generally fail when the rollers get flat spots--generally from such misuse as downshifting. (which won't even work as it freewheels running backwards.)

Chris B.

 

[GoRving]

Any of y'all have a Homey 6-22? That's a project for me soon to get one going. It looks so similar to alot of those other old Homeys that I want to know a little more about them from people who have used that model. Thanks!

 

[homelitejim]

Any of y'all have a Homey 6-22? That's a project for me soon to get one going. It looks so similar to alot of those other old Homeys that I want to know a little more about them from people who have used that model. Thanks!

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/547bcd19fe19fc7f88256b78000dfaa3?OpenDocument

Here is the info. Carb kits are still available, every 1950's Homelite saw I have has great spark most common problem is fuel or gasket related. If you can switch to .404 chain do it, #10 and 1/2 chain are hard to come by.

 

[cbfarmall]

Any of y'all have a Homey 6-22? That's a project for me soon to get one going. It looks so similar to alot of those other old Homeys that I want to know a little more about them from people who have used that model. Thanks!

Lots of saws in that series. 4-20, 5-22, 7-21, 700, 707, 770, Wiz, and others. All closely related. Classic Homelite. I have a parts 6-22. More compression than I've ever felt in a saw.

Chris B.

 

[Eccentric]

Who here as heard of the IHC torque amplifier. Same principle, bit more sophisticated and every bit as frustrating when it doesn't work.

I think those generally fail when the rollers get flat spots--generally from such misuse as downshifting. (which won't even work as it freewheels running backwards.)

Chris B.

Well Chris,

It's possible I've ran an IHC TA a time or two...

Yep. People bugger those TA's up when they try to 'downshift' with 'em while rolling downhill...

 

[8433jeff]

Who here as heard of the IHC torque amplifier. Same principle, bit more sophisticated and every bit as frustrating when it doesn't work.

I think those generally fail when the rollers get flat spots--generally from such misuse as downshifting. (which won't even work as it freewheels running backwards.)

Chris B.

TA's are an excuse for a gutless motor.

 

[Eccentric]

TA's are an excuse for a gutless motor.

No Jeff, they were mostly intended for speed reduction. "Speed Reducer" doesn't sound as cool in a dealer flier as "Torque Amplifier" though...:msp_lol: