Homelite Chainsaws

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Do your check for spark, but do a fuel system clean-up before trying fuel.

That old thing is a rotary valve, belt drive from the early 1950s, they continued with versions well into the '60s. They are not rare, only the really nice ones are, most were used up.
The one you have is worth the time and effort, it even has the ashtray.
 
Hmmmm....24 hours.....





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330

Can anyone tell me how to get the clutch off of a 330?

How about the flywheel, I have tried holding the flywheel and smacking a brass bar on the end of the crank to no avail...
 
Can anyone tell me how to get the clutch off of a 330?

How about the flywheel, I have tried holding the flywheel and smacking a brass bar on the end of the crank to no avail...

For the flywheel try some penetrating oil and a rubber mallet. Tap around the outter edges and it will pop off. For the clutch (if its like a 360) Take the clutch shoes out and tap the spider on the side while you have a piston stop in.
 
Can anyone tell me how to get the clutch off of a 330?

How about the flywheel, I have tried holding the flywheel and smacking a brass bar on the end of the crank to no avail...

never messed with a 330, but looking at the diagram it apears that one would pull the spark plug, turn the piston to the lowest spot using the flywheel, shove as much nylon rope in the sparkplug hole as it will take, and then spin off the nuts. the rope will stop the piston from moving. I would guess the clutch nut would be removed in a clock-wise fasion.
 
Yep, the rope trick worked perfect for getting the nuts off but both clutches and both flywheels are stuck on. Going to try the rubber mallet thing shortly.
 
turn the piston to the lowest spot using the flywheel, shove as much nylon rope in the sparkplug hole as it will take
I would make sure that the piston is above any ports and on it's way up for the direction that you'll be turning.
If any rope gets sheared off in there, you've got trouble.
 
I would make sure that the piston is above any ports and on it's way up for the direction that you'll be turning.
If any rope gets sheared off in there, you've got trouble.

Yep, bean there, done that:hmm3grin2orange:
 
Yep, the rope trick worked perfect for getting the nuts off but both clutches and both flywheels are stuck on. Going to try the rubber mallet thing shortly.

You are now in puller land. it looks like the flywheel is on a tapered shaft. if it comes off by tapping with a mallet I'll buy you a coke.

if you don't have a puller, go to the local auto parts place and 'borrow' a 2/3 combo puller. ours will loan tools. use three jaws if you can, but you'll probably be stuck using two.

keeping things aligned, put a good amount of pressure on the tool, then whack the top of the acme thread with a hammer. tighten, whack, repeat. sometimes it's a good idea to put the nut back on the shaft (with as much room as you can get between the nut and flywheel) to keep the flywheel from flying off.

It looks to be the same with the clutch, but be more careful. From the IPL drawing, the clutch does not 'appear' to be threaded on. ymmv.
 
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I would make sure that the piston is above any ports and on it's way up for the direction that you'll be turning.
If any rope gets sheared off in there, you've got trouble.

Yea, btdt too. I now use 1/4" nylon rope with the end melted good. that keeps the little strings from getting into interesting places.
 
Anyone know if there is a paint that matches Homelite Blue Metallic? I have a xl-101 I might think about painting.
 
Homelite Blue

Anyone know if there is a paint that matches Homelite Blue Metallic? I have a xl-101 I might think about painting.

Take a sample of the color to you local body shop supply dealer who mixes paint for collision shops and they'll match the blue perfectly with good quality paint that won't be disoved with gasoline or oil.
 
Does anyone know where you can buy a set of piston rings for an xl12.Thanks

There were some on ebay a few days ago. I had been watching them.

I have two sets on order from 'the greek' for a Pioneer and a Roper. He lists them by application and by size (bore x thickness x end condition). Handy when you have an odd ball saw/engine.
 
I have a xl-12 that has compression, spark, and fuel, but won't fire. Any suggestions on where to start looking. I've had the saw apart a few times checking to make sure I have everything in order, I must be overlooking something. There is some very light scoring below the rings on the exhaust side, 2 very thin lines that are visible but can't really feel and the cylinder is shiny and smooth. Spark is bright and blue, and the fuel seems to be flowing normally. Anyway it has me stumped, will a tiny amount of scoring keep the spark plug from igniting the fuel? I wouldn't think so but maybe I'm wrong.
 
I have a xl-12 that has compression, spark, and fuel, but won't fire. Any suggestions on where to start looking. I've had the saw apart a few times checking to make sure I have everything in order, I must be overlooking something. There is some very light scoring below the rings on the exhaust side, 2 very thin lines that are visible but can't really feel and the cylinder is shiny and smooth. Spark is bright and blue, and the fuel seems to be flowing normally. Anyway it has me stumped, will a tiny amount of scoring keep the spark plug from igniting the fuel? I wouldn't think so but maybe I'm wrong.

No.

How much compression? Somewhere down in the below 90psi range they stop popping.

Check to see if spark occurs about 25-30 degrees before top dead center. Late won't run. Controlled on a saw mostly by points gap/dwell.

On the ones with electronic ignition, I bias the pickup coil in the advance (CCW) direction as much as the screw holes allow.
 
No.

How much compression? Somewhere down in the below 90psi range they stop popping.

Check to see if spark occurs about 25-30 degrees before top dead center. Late won't run. Controlled on a saw mostly by points gap/dwell.

On the ones with electronic ignition, I bias the pickup coil in the advance (CCW) direction as much as the screw holes allow.
I will try to tear into it this week. I got a carb for the 770D so will be working on it. It passes the hold the string compression test it will not drop to the bottom of the rope.
 

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