Homelite Chainsaws

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Just curious and kicking around selling my 770G. How much do you all think fair market value is for an all original 770G except the fuel line, unrestored good runner with an original oregon armor tip bar, and brand new 1/2in pitch chain. Bar is 28in or so... Paint is faded, missing the obligatory chrome cylinder cover and recoil cover.

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A 1020 arrived today. The carb has been changed. Without popping it, do I need to plug the passages on the intake?

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Played around with the 2000 sawbones sent me, too. Spark is good. Compression, I think something's amiss...
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Probably some heavier residual oil in the cylinder making it do that. I need to put on fuel filter, flush the carb, and I want to pull the muffler and check it for carbon. I suspect that number will get corrected, but it makes for an interesting photo.
 
Did Homelite use a next size larger rubber duckbill besides the little red ones?

I have a Homie fuel lid that looks like it takes one on a metal spigot in the center underside of the cap.

Another place I can use one is on a couple Remington SL-4A auto-oiler checks.

The Remington duckbill is 9/16" long and 1/4" dia. body.

i lost the valve on my homie wacker and made one out of innertube. rolled it like i was rolling a smoke and forced it through. been working fine for about 4 years now. even trimmed it up with scissors so's it'd look good.
 
Homelite EZ (original 1956 Model)

Anyone know where I could get a piston P/N A55599 Assy (Piston, Rings, Pin, Keepers) for my 1956 EZ or an interchangeable piston that will work. Bore is 2.0625".
 
got a real dumb question here. finally got the fuel tank duckbill valve for my 330. planning to reassemble it tomorrow but not real sure which way the valve goes. can't really tell from looking at the IPL. prolly real plain when i get to it. anyone got any advice?
 
got a real dumb question here. finally got the fuel tank duckbill valve for my 330. planning to reassemble it tomorrow but not real sure which way the valve goes. can't really tell from looking at the IPL. prolly real plain when i get to it. anyone got any advice?

On the fuel side the duckbill is pointed in, that lets air in the tank but keeps fuel from going out.
 
Got to work trying to get my XP 1020 going. I expected that I would need to pull the flywheel to service the points. Turns out a new plug and a nice spark makes it unneeded. However I discovered that a Harmonic Balancer Puller lines up perfectly with the threaded holes in the flywheel and thought I would share in case others are looking for the tool to pull their flywheels. I do need to reload the pull cord. Is there a trick to getting the cord to stay in the notch? The other pull cords I have serviced had a small hole for the string to go through and then be knotted. Not 100% sure what the best way would be to secure the cord on this one. I have included a pic of the starter. Also, does it matter what grease I use on the bearings inside the starter? Figured it wouldn't be a bad idea to lube um up while I have it apart.

Jim

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First of all, you shouldn't need to plug the idle hole. That idle circuit dumps into a line directly into the crankcase. This tube and line has been removed, and hopefully the hole in the case has been plugged.

I think regular Lithium grease NGLI 2 would be fine on the bearing.

Nice saw BTW!!!
 
Here's a pdf I grabbed from Google Books.

Popular Science Award, October 1964,
Homelite Family of Gas Engine Power Tools


Left-click to view, or right-click, "Save-Link-As" to save.

Thanks for posting that. A local OPE shop here has a framed pic of the original shop owner (passed away a few years ago) standing with some Homelite reps. I believe it was taken in late 1963. It was shot in the same shop, in front of a Homelite sign and a stack of boxed XL-12's. The shop owner is holding a new XL-12 in one hand and shaking hands with a Homelite exec with the other. The article was printed in October of 1964, and mentions the XL-12 chainsaws being released the year prior. That reinforces what I've been told before regarding a 1963 XL-12 release date rather than 1964 as some have stated.

It's interesting that the article mentions the XL-15, and states it's a gear drive. I have an XL-15 (well RandyMac is holding it for me), but it's a direct drive saw. The clutch cover looks newer than the rest of the saw, so maybe the gear drive clutch cover was removed at some point. I also noticed that the 'one hand' engine pic shows an XL-12 engine with the later style starter housing (no 'button' in the center). The engine in the water pump pic does have the earlier style starter. This article must've been written right at the switchover period. The sparkplug cap in the cutaway pic of the circular saw is still the early type too.

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Here's my XL-15, for those that haven't already seen the pics. Notice the 'less faded' direct drive clutch cover.
 
got my 330 back together, running, and tuned in. once you get those things apart, getting them back together is a snap. BTW, one thing i discovered that i hadn't read or heard about. it comes apart and goes together a lot easier if you take the oiler off when you take the carb. i either didn't read that or just missed it. anyways. thanks all for the help. one more off the bench
 
The famous XL-100 type bone pile.

Can someone use any of this:

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Mostly all junk with issues. Can't bring myself to throw it away.:( Free as long as the postage don't get stupid.

P.M. for discription of an item.

Edit: Almost looks like a real saw at the top there but, it's just big chunks stacked together.
 
Can someone use any of this:

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Mostly all junk with issues. Can't bring myself to throw it away.:( Free as long as the postage don't get stupid.

P.M. for discription of an item.

Edit: Almost looks like a real saw at the top there but, it's just big chunks stacked together.

How many times have you gotten rid of something then later you need it again? I've learned the hard way..I'd put that in a nice little box, label it, and put it in an out of the way place. That stuff looks like it would come in handy again.
 
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How many times have you gotten rid of something then later you need it again? I've learned the hard way..I'd put that in a nice little box, label it, and put it in an out of the way place. That stuff looks like it would come in handy again.

Mr. and Mrs. Pack Rat lives here. There is no place left to store it.

You would not believe what a K. G. teacher saves. ROFL
 
Sxl 925 ???

I picked this up today for almost nothing. The owner said it was locked up.... well it was, the recoil rope at least. :laugh:
I fixed the recoil and all is good. Piston and cylinder are nice.
I'm pretty sure it's a 925, but I want an expert to confirm it. :msp_thumbup:

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I picked this up today for almost nothing. The owner said it was locked up.... well it was, the recoil rope at least. :laugh:
I fixed the recoil and all is good. Piston and cylinder are nice.
I'm pretty sure it's a 925, but I want an expert to confirm it. :msp_thumbup:

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Sure looks like it to me....... a UT number will confirm it for sure! Full wrap too!!
 

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