Homelite Chainsaws

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Chainsawlady has the sintered bronze 'air filter' that presses in the fuel caps. Soaking them in lacquer thinner is a crap shoot.



She hasn't posted in a spell.................................................................
 
Chainsawlady has the sintered bronze 'air filter' that presses in the fuel caps. Soaking them in lacquer thinner is a crap shoot.



She hasn't posted in a spell.................................................................

I emailed back and forth with Joyce a couple weeks ago. She told me she's "in a cast" and can't dig through parts boxes for a while. Hope she's OK. I've never had the 'filter' type caps missing a 'filter'. My issue is that the damn 'tube' type caps won't release their death grips on the tube. Mauled one pretty bad (but didn't damage the cap). Maybe I can get that bastard out and replace it with a 'filter' from Joyce once she's on the mend.
 
Been out with the 4 year old all day. Dead tired. That saw looks like a 1050 to me. Not a 2000 or 2100, and certainly not an 1130 gear drive. Paint scheme and starter cover look just like what's on the 1050 in my possession. The AF cover looks to have "1050 Automatic" on the back too.



Carl I bought a 10-pack bag of duckbills from that very seller. Everything was fine with the deal, and I've already gone through half the bag (with many more saws to refit). Will be ordering another 10-bag of 69451's soon along with a 10-bag of Poulan 530026119's.

Thanks for the Helicoil offer. The stripped manifold bolt hole on the 1050 is 1/4-20, and the stripped lower handlebar bolt hole on the 750 I'm working on is 10-24.



Nice looking S E-Z and 360 Keith!




Most of the C-series as well as the early XP series saws used caps with valves that are unfortunately not compatible with the little 69451's. There were several styles of cap vents used. There's the one with the 'dime sized' flat rubber slit valve (which is in a steel frame that glues into the cap underside). I believe that's the #56865 valve.

The caps that DO take the 69451 duckbills are the one with the little sintered bronze 'filter' pressed into the underside of the cap. Grab that 'filter' with pliers and twist/pull it out. There will be the melted remains of a duckbill in the cap hole and the 'filter'. Clean all that out, drop a new 69451 into the 'filter', and press it in place. Make SURE you've gotten all of the dead melted former duckbill goo out of the cap or it won't breath however. Had that happen with the 1050 I just worked on. It would starve and die within less than 30 seconds of the cap being tightened. This was AFTER I'd replaced the duckbill. pulled the cap back apart and cleaned the rest of the goo out. Works now.


There's another cap that takes the 69451 duckbill..............but I haven't been able to take one apart to replace the valve. It has a brass tube in the same location as the 'filter' in the other caps. Damn things won't come out however. Tried it with two sepperate caps so far. I can SEE the melted remains of a duckbill in there, but the damn tubes have resisted all efforts to twist them out. I'm missing something I'm sure...



Here's a completed ebay listing for one of the C/XP caps that DO for sure take the 69451 duckbill.

NEW OEM FUEL CAP FOR HOMELITE CHAINSAWS | eBay

I think I'll try repairing a couple of my old Homelite fuel caps..I have a couple of the red duckbill valves, my caps are the kind with the "filter". Thanks for the tip.
 
I think I'll try repairing a couple of my old Homelite fuel caps..I have a couple of the red duckbill valves, my caps are the kind with the "filter". Thanks for the tip.

If you have the red or black 'hex' type later SXL-AO/SXL-925/etc caps with the filter within one of the 'flats' of the hex head, they also take the 69451 duckbill. Use a pick to pry the filter out of the flat (there's a grove in the underside of the cap under the gasket that makes this easy), clean the goo out, put in a new duckbill, then press in the filter.

These Homelite caps also work fine on 10-series Macs BTW...................although they look like hell on 'em. I actually have a couple of these caps (with fresh duckbills) that I keep with my 10-series saws that have good looking but bad functioning (meaning they pee) caps. The Homelite caps go on the saws when I use them (if I'm not able to swap a good OEM 10-series cap from another Mac onto the saw), then come back off for the shelf (where the 'purty' Mac caps go back on). I wish the Mac caps were as easily refitted with 69451 duckbills....
 
If you have the red or black 'hex' type later SXL-AO/SXL-925/etc caps with the filter within one of the 'flats' of the hex head, they also take the 69451 duckbill. Use a pick to pry the filter out of the flat (there's a grove in the underside of the cap under the gasket that makes this easy), clean the goo out, put in a new duckbill, then press in the filter.

These Homelite caps also work fine on 10-series Macs BTW...................although they look like hell on 'em. I actually have a couple of these caps (with fresh duckbills) that I keep with my 10-series saws that have good looking but bad functioning (meaning they pee) caps. The Homelite caps go on the saws when I use them (if I'm not able to swap a good OEM 10-series cap from another Mac onto the saw), then come back off for the shelf (where the 'purty' Mac caps go back on). I wish the Mac caps were as easily refitted with 69451 duckbills....

Yep, that's what they are, red and black hex caps with the filter. I thought maybe I was the only one to put one of those on a 10-10! They work all right until you can find the Mac cap. I use the black one for the Mac, the red just didn't look right.
 
Yep, that's what they are, red and black hex caps with the filter. I thought maybe I was the only one to put one of those on a 10-10! They work all right until you can find the Mac cap. I use the black one for the Mac, the red just didn't look right.

I don't have any of the black caps yet. Just a buncha red ones. Will probably pick up a couple used black ones to refresh with new duckbills and put aside for Mac duty. They're less obnoxious than the red ones when used on a yeller saw...:D
 
I don't have any of the black caps yet. Just a buncha red ones. Will probably pick up a couple used black ones to refresh with new duckbills and put aside for Mac duty. They're less obnoxious than the red ones when used on a yeller saw...:D

I think the black caps came on the blue Homelites and the red caps on the red ones. On the yeller saws I had more trouble with the oil caps, seems like when they got to me a former owner usually cross threaded them.
 
I think the black caps came on the blue Homelites and the red caps on the red ones. On the yeller saws I had more trouble with the oil caps, seems like when they got to me a former owner usually cross threaded them.

I've only had one of those that was so bad that I couldn't save it. I've "re-threaded" a couple cross-threaded 10-series oil caps. On the Homelites, the most common 'cap issue' I've had is when the big 'dime size' valve in the C-series caps decides to unglue and drop to the bottom of the tank. You know when that happens because the saw suddenly starts peeing on your leg.....
 
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Homelite Zip questions

Hey guys, just spent last two hours tearing into and cleaning my relatives Zip till storm hit. I have made some observations and already have questions. It has a "Brown" carb on it and deff. needs a kit ,where can i get one? I only see tillotson kits on Ebay. The saw is complete and have only found one screw missing so far,but it has been sitting on damp floor/ground and may have had exposure to fertilizer at some point. It has the "white death" on the bottom contact surface from trigger handle to front edge. It is heavily corroded/ pitted. I am more experienced with metal prep/bodywork/paint than saws in general,so can i do anything to stop/treat it or just buy a used/better handle and transfer parts over? If so are gaskets/seals available to do such a swap? Any help would be appreciated. I still have had no response for manuals so i guess i will buy them on CD. Thanks,Jimmy
 
Yep - 1050A

What do you guys think? Has comp and leaks oil like a mug, but otherwise seems to be complete minus a few minor details like a choke lever knob, spark plug terminal nut, and a coupla handle screws. Gonna need some help sortin' it all out when I get around to goin' through it, but couldn't resist it bein' only a half an hour from me on CL.

Open to all comments and suggestions. Probably post a thread on the main forum too, but figure this thread is where it should really be for starters since it's where I'll also be lookin' for all ya'll's wise ol' sage advice on the beast.

A few more pics to follow these when I sort em out...


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Poge that's a pretty lookin 1050 ya got.

Might find some of the part you need down in the shed, but I'll be gone till Mon. Remind me next week if you still need stuff.
 
Poge that's a pretty lookin 1050 ya got.

Might find some of the part you need down in the shed, but I'll be gone till Mon. Remind me next week if you still need stuff.

Thanks. Not sure what I need 'cept encouragement right now!

Tryin' to get some more pics organized for upload. Lots of blurry ones cause I didn't consider the condensation factor fogging up the lens bringing the cam out of the AC into 90 degree heat and 90 percent humidity.:dizzy:

Think there are a couple more in the batch that may be worthwhile to post. I'll get em up if there are.
 

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