Homelite Super 2 - parts and is it worth it to fix?

[dtbingle]

I was given an old Homelite Super 2 16" chainsaw, the kind with the magnesium case. Paint is coming off and everything is extremely dirty, but appears to have good compression and scoping the cylinder doesn't show any grooves or signs on damage on the piston or bore. I was told it has been sitting for a long time and can confirm that all of the fuel/oil lines are gooey and duckbill valves are gone. The sprocket is done for and is the kind held on with a washer and retaining clip opposed to some of the models with the locking nut.

Looks like I can find the duckbill valves, oil/fuel lines, fuel filters, "figure 8" shaped air filters, and sprocket fairly easily, but having trouble finding a carb gasket & rebuild kit that match up to what I've pulled off. Carb has HDC-27 L and 10/75 (date?) on it.

1. I've tried looking up carb rebuild kits for HDC-27 and the gaskets included don't seem to have holes that line up. Any suggestions on locating a proper carb rebuild kit?
2. Looking up prices for the parts above, I'm estimating $60-70 for it all to get it running. Given that I use a chainsaw maybe once or twice a year to get firewood for "recreational" fires, is it even worth it?

 

[m21bmr]

In answer to your question #2 above: Is it worth putting $60-70 into the saw...
From an economics only perspective it is likely not worth it. In my experience, a properly running Super 2 of that vintage will sell for around $50-60.
If you are not concerned too much about the economics, I have owned and used a Super 2 some in the past. They aren't bad saws, and I thought had good power for the engine size, but it wasn't one of my favorite saws to use. If you haven't confirmed that your oiler is working, that could be another potential source of issues. The mag case saws I believe all have the crankcase pressure driven systems that pressurize the oil tank. Those diaphragms can fail and cause chain oil to either be burned by the engine, or the system will not work properly with issues with oil tank duckbill, etc. In the couple of Super 2 & XL2 saws that I ran for a while, both eventually had oiler issues.
My experience running those saws, is that they were difficult to keep operating properly, and not very dependable since so much time/tinkering was needed to keep them functioning well.
If it is a saw that you expect to get out once or twice a year and expect it to work with 90% or higher confidence, I wouldn't trust a vintage Super 2 to be that dependable.

 

[drumbum]

Was just using mine last evening. Certainly worth fixing.

Mag case and dual triggers?

 

[Wood Doctor]

I restored this one last year:

Nice saw once you fix it up. This one needed a new coil, carb cleanup, fuel lines, primer. etc. Owner loves it.

 

[dtbingle]

In answer to your question #2 above: Is it worth putting $60-70 into the saw...
From an economics only perspective it is likely not worth it. In my experience, a properly running Super 2 of that vintage will sell for around $50-60.
If you are not concerned too much about the economics, I have owned and used a Super 2 some in the past. They aren't bad saws, and I thought had good power for the engine size, but it wasn't one of my favorite saws to use. If you haven't confirmed that your oiler is working, that could be another potential source of issues. The mag case saws I believe all have the crankcase pressure driven systems that pressurize the oil tank. Those diaphragms can fail and cause chain oil to either be burned by the engine, or the system will not work properly with issues with oil tank duckbill, etc. In the couple of Super 2 & XL2 saws that I ran for a while, both eventually had oiler issues.
My experience running those saws, is that they were difficult to keep operating properly, and not very dependable since so much time/tinkering was needed to keep them functioning well.
If it is a saw that you expect to get out once or twice a year and expect it to work with 90% or higher confidence, I wouldn't trust a vintage Super 2 to be that dependable.

Thanks, lots of good info here. Is there any way to evaluate the oiler system without it running?

Was just using mine last evening. Certainly worth fixing.

Mag case and dual triggers?

Yep, mag case & dual triggers.

Is there a reason you'd recommend putting $60-70 into this saw to get it running (and hoping oiler system is working) vs. putting that $60-70 into a used saw that's running?

Keep in mind, this is a "use once or twice a year" saw that sees a few hours of use to chop up a couple fallen trees for "non-essential" firewood. As in it looks/smells nice in fireplace or good to make smores in fire pit outside.

 

[Ronie]

I think that if you enjoy fixing things, it would be worth it. I have a Husqvarna 51 that has around $270 in it that a lot of people would say was a waste of money but it was worth every penny of that to me.

 

[drumbum]

Thanks, lots of good info here. Is there any way to evaluate the oiler system without it running?



Yep, mag case & dual triggers.

Is there a reason you'd recommend putting $60-70 into this saw to get it running (and hoping oiler system is working) vs. putting that $60-70 into a used saw that's running?

Keep in mind, this is a "use once or twice a year" saw that sees a few hours of use to chop up a couple fallen trees for "non-essential" firewood. As in it looks/smells nice in fireplace or good to make smores in fire pit outside.

Your estimate may be high.

The saw in my hands would probably be running with some tygon and a duck bill. YMMV. I would gladly trade even a like new 38 cc ryobi if the saw in question was in very nice shape....if you were in my area.

 

[m21bmr]

Is there any way to evaluate the oiler system without it running?

You could do a good visual inspection would be about the extent of it. Such as: check oil lines, diaphragm / plunger, oil tank cap, in-tank sintered metal adapter, and duck bill valve.

Is there a reason you'd recommend putting $60-70 into this saw to get it running (and hoping oiler system is working) vs. putting that $60-70 into a used saw that's running?

Is this going to be your only saw? In that case, I would personally choose to put the money in a newer saw with a chain brake and possibly anti-vibration mounts.
There is certainly the aspect of personal accomplishment that you may feel by fixing up the Homelite. If that is a big driver for you, it may be the preferred choice.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I think that if you enjoy fixing things, it would be worth it. I have a Husqvarna 51 that has around $270 in it that a lot of people would say was a waste of money but it was worth every penny of that to me.

Ronie, I rebuilt a non-running Husky 51 with a slightly larger top end for about $100 and sold it early last summer for $250 to a desperate tree removal company. It was one of the dumbest mistakes I have ever made. That saw runs flawlessly today and I could have used it several times last month and even yesterday. Dang it.

 

[dtbingle]

I found what looks like the correct carb rebuilt kit for the HDC-27. I was thrown off by one of my current gaskets having an additional hole that after closer inspection was not necessary and only had a flat surface behind it.

Everything inside of the housing is coated in thick dirt/oil from everything leaking out of the dissolved lines. Going to disassemble everything, clean it, and see how it looks before making a final decision.

I also decided to check out the cylinder for more than a quick glance and noticed quite a bit of oil in there (maybe 1/4 of a shot glass?). More than I would expect from gas evaporating and leaving the oil behind. I'm not familiar with the bar chain oiler pumps, but was reading that on some setups if the oiler pump seal goes it can leak into crankcase and end up in the cylinder. Thoughts?

Any suggestions on how to get this stupid retaining clip off? It's fairly heavy duty and there's only like a flathead width of a gap in the ring making it difficult to fit anything in there.

Also, does the front part of the muffler pop off to reveal the bolt to remove it? Tried tapping around the edge with a flathead to pop the front cover off, but it's on there pretty good. Want to make sure it's supposed to come off before really smacking it haha.

 

[Okie]

If you do any oil line replacement or if the existing oiler is not working, it's quite common to get the oil lines WRONG on a Super 2.
Make yourself a good drawing of the existing lines BEFORE removing any of them. They do not go back in a orderly fashion. I've seen Super 2 oil line routing diagrams posted on this site every once in awhile.
If you will keep a eye and ear open for donor parts super 2's you can save lot's of $$'s by taking two or 3 and making one, but also lots of different versions of the Super 2's and parts won't interchange. Close but no fit.
The Super 2's add new meaning to the term: Experience is what you get when what you did not get what you wanted.
You can also browse around and save bucks on the Duckbills,
Gas/Oil caps and their gaskets are overpriced. Some of the gas and oil can be sealed by using o rings on top of the old cork gaskets, etc.
Letting one of them set around in a hot building not being used for several months is also not a good thing. Little fellers need to be exercised quite often or about every 3 months at least.
You will find that you can easily get more money into one than they are worth if using new parts and they are not all that reliable. (I have about half dozen of them for ATV/jeep saws and about the same amount donor saws parts in a large plastic tub)
It's also common for the glue on ID tag to be gone/gone or it will fall off later. I take a electric engraver and etch the ID numbers on the case and remove the tag and put it in a file. Trying to get correct New old stock parts without the correct ID numbers so as to get correct part numbers from a IPL is rolling the dice.

b21bmr in the #2 post is right on.

 

[xl130]

Here is the proper oiler line routing.

 

[Pioneer]

Used these to fix the oiler on my super 2

NBR 04 Air Filter Cleaner Duckbill Valve Green

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07C9GGKRP/ref=dp_prsubs_1#

1. 
2. 
3. 

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07C9GGKRP/ref=dp_prsubs_1




I have a super 2 and XL 2 and they both have chronic carburetor problems. But they are very handy little saws with the two throttle triggers so I make an effort to keep one of mine going. In the carb rebuild kit make sure the metering diaphragm button is the same thickness as the stock one. Some aftermarket kits have one that is thicker, and this will give you constant flooding problems.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

Love my XL...its my only top handle saw and its dead nuts reliable.

(Mild thing pro-mod for comedic effect)

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

 

[xl130]

Used these to fix the oiler on my super 2

NBR 04 Air Filter Cleaner Duckbill Valve Green

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07C9GGKRP/ref=dp_prsubs_1#

1. 
2. 
3. 

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07C9GGKRP/ref=dp_prsubs_1




I have a super 2 and XL 2 and they both have chronic carburetor problems. But they are very handy little saws with the two throttle triggers so I make an effort to keep one of mine going. In the carb rebuild kit make sure the metering diaphragm button is the same thickness as the stock one. Some aftermarket kits have one that is thicker, and this will give you constant flooding problems.

Yes. Avoid aftermarket HDC rebuild kits at all cost. Stens aftermarket seem to be the exception and I have not had problems with their kits. Have had many problems with other Amazon no name aftermarket kits.
You can file the “nub” down but it’s easier to just avoid this problem all together by paying the extra $10 for a genuine replacement kit.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Here is the proper oiler line routing.

That's only one example of a few variations and is not showing the bar delivery line. Could be a bit confusing/deceptive/frustrating to anyone attempting to use it as the correct configuration for their particular saw if it doesn't use that particular pump..

 

[xl130]

That's only one example of a few variations and is not showing the bar delivery line. Could be a bit confusing/deceptive/frustrating to anyone attempting to use it as the correct configuration for their particular saw if it doesn't use that particular pump..

That’s a fair point to raise. The picture is common on early models. Some of the later used the carburetor correct?

 

[dtbingle]

Most of these carb rebuild kits don't include the air intake gasket and having trouble finding it separately elsewhere. Only finding it in one or two places that include it with the rebuild kit like here, but of course it's almost double compared to the no included intake gaskets.
carb rebuild kit + air intake

Also, the chain sprocket retaining clip is just terrible to get off. Still having trouble. I'm almost tempted to drill holes in part of the washer and try to use snap ring pliers. Or drill a hole and just break it in two and get another retaining clip to put on.

 

[hotshot]

The sprocket is done for and is the kind held on with a washer and retaining clip

Use a Dremel & cut off wheel on that clutch retainer clip, then throw the 2 halves away. Just get a standard external snap ring. Don’t use their retainer again, that comes with the Homelite OEM sprocket kit.

That’s got to be one of Homelite’s worst non-serviceable hardware selections, but I’ll bet that they never paid a cent in warranty repairs for a drum coming off, lol.

 

[dtbingle]

Use a Dremel & cut off wheel on that clutch retainer clip, then throw the 2 halves away. Just get a standard external snap ring. Don’t use their retainer again, that comes with the Homelite OEM sprocket kit.

That’s got to be one of Homelite’s worst non-serviceable hardware selections, but I’ll bet that they never paid a cent in warranty repairs for a drum coming off, lol.

Sounds good - I don't see any other way to get it off haha. The repair manual only says: "This ring must be expanded and lifted out of the shaft groove". Very helpful indeed.

I've seen a few PITA retaining clips before, but this has taken position #1 on that list.

Also, the current spark plug in it is a Champion CJ6, but I've seen many other spark plugs listed for the Super 2. What's the correct plug?