Homelite Super 2 - parts and is it worth it to fix?

[PogoInTheWoods]

Use some mildly aggressive emery cloth or aluminum oxide sand paper on a piece of glass (or other flat surface) to lap the carb body. Finish with a fine grade. Shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes. I'd replace a carb before using sealant because you'll end up needing to anyway.

 

[hotshot]

I’d scrap it, then put on a HDC series carb with the dual low/high mixture screws.

You'd be pizzing upwind when trying to flatten out that warpage by hand, without using a blanchard grinder or a mill.

I think the HDC-65 was the Super 2 two screw carb that I used to use for the swaps, and there are more two screw types if you dig.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

....without using a blanchard grinder or a mill.

To smooth a 1 inch square piece of aluminum? Piece o' glass and some sandpaper. Done in 5 minutes...., and nothing to lose.

 

[Okie]

I seen a guy sometime back, think it was on Leons site that had a Homie single screwdriver leaking (seeping) with air pressure similar to yours and he found a hex head screw that he could tighten with a socket, like 5/16 size, This was a last resort fix before replacing the carb. He has a video on leons site about flogging those type carbs that has some good tips. Might search for it. You might also compare carb prices on ebay for replacements. Most all of them carbs are sold as PROBABLY needing a kit,

 

[dtbingle]

Made a little progress:

• Pressure tested crankcase. Clamshell housing and crank seals were 99% good. There was a single tiny air bubble every 15 seconds or so coming out of one tiny spot along the clamshell housing seam. Decided to leave it with how little of a leak it was.
• Lapped the fuel pump side of the carb and got 2/3 of the warp out. It was pretty extreme to start with and got to the point where any more sanding would have uncovered one of the carb passages underneath. After reassembling and tightening that single screw down an INSANE amount, the leaking slowed down a lot. Not great, but maybe 30-45 seconds per psi from 9 psi down to about 6 psi where it slowed down some more.
• Saw still acts a bit funny periodically, but overall running much better and doesn't die out at idle anymore. Managed to get it tuned decently too. Tried to do a test cut, but the chain on it is so dull it's hard to evaluate. Didn't seem like it was bogging down, but wasn't really biting in either.

I made a new oil tank cap gasket out of the Felpro cork-rubber, but regardless of how tight the cap/gasket are on there, oil still slowly oozes out during operation. Very frustrating and open to suggestions. Are the oil tanks with the female threaded caps interchangeable with mine (like here)?

Also, the oiler appears to be functioning, but here's my oil line routing just in case.

 

[hotshot]

Yes, the later oil tanks will interchange, and your hose routing looks good.

Probably should now pull the clutch & then the oil pump cover & make sure that the diaphragm is still soft & the pintle hasn’t loosen up where it crimps onto the diaphragm material. Try running the duckbill all the way over the sintered metal connector & use some 30W straight weight oil too.

You can pressure test the cap & fittings for leaks by hooking up to your line #1 & clamping off the line at the bar pad with hemostats.

You can also do option #1 and bypass the oil pump altogether, like the cheapened later series did. All you need is a restrictor Homelite 93703-B stuffed into the oil line at the strainer/pickup up filter.

 

[Pioneer]

What hotshot said, you can bypass the oil pump and rig it for a pressurized tank, I had to do this on my super 2 because of a bad pump diaphragm. You can tailor the amount of oil delivered by the size of the restrictor. The drawback of this setup is that the tank remains pressurized after the saw stops and continues to push oil out until tank pressure bleeds off. I got into the habit of cracking the oil tank cap when I'm finished cutting to release the pressure.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Probably should now pull the clutch & then the oil pump cover...

It's already been determined that pulling the clutch on this saw involves the old style washer and would be a major pain in the ass. It shouldn't be necessary to remove the clutch to service the oil pump internals or remove/replace the diaphragm or gaskets anyway. Just need to be careful removing the diaphragm without bending the pintle. It will just clear the clutch/sprocket when rotated out and away just right. The oil pump diaphragms are NLA and usually expensive if you can find someone selling one. If the pump gasket isn't leaking and the diaphragm is pumping, I would strongly advise leaving well enough alone in that area.

But if in doubt about the performance of the oiler, simply remove the bar and chain, fire up the saw and observe the oil discharge hole at the bar pad. If it pumps without the bar installed but not with it installed, obviously check the bar passages for blockage -- or the bar itself as being the correct type for the saw.

If you find insufficient oil discharge at the bar pad (but at least some), try a thinner oil or dilute it with diesel along with doubling up your cap gasket (for additional pressure) to possibly help flush the pump passages. Some compressed air from the correct directions may also dislodge any residual gum or crap. Regular bar lube should flow quite readily under normal operation. If there's no (or very little) oil flowing, then you'll need to investigate the pump diaphragm for stiffness or damage. If the diaphragm is intact but has become stiff, the DOT3/4 brake fluid soak for a few days should do the trick. I just successfully revived one via that method which had zero flex/deflection when removed. It softened up adequately enough to now pump plenty of oil.

Last resort would be the last suggestion. Bypass the pump entirely. A roll pin makes a handy restrictor.

 

[dtbingle]

Probably should now pull the clutch & then the oil pump cover & make sure that the diaphragm is still soft & the pintle hasn’t loosen up where it crimps onto the diaphragm material. Try running the duckbill all the way over the sintered metal connector & use some 30W straight weight oil too.

I'm hesitant to do this based on the gasket material when taking apart the carb. I'd fully expect the oil pump gasket / diaphragm to just fall apart as it's coming out.

I'm not sure what you mean about running the duckbill all the way over the connector piece. This metal connector was gone on my saw (not stuck in bottom either), so I used a smaller line inside the oil line as a makeshift solution. Used a little nail to work it in there. Either way, what are the issues if the diaphragm is hard & the pintle possibly crimps onto the diaphragm? Just asking because the saw oils quiet well with normal bar chain oil. Slowly oozes out with no bar, and gives a slight oil spray onto the towel on the ground when revving with a bar/chain. Might be a good idea to run the thinner 30W oil though.



Also, when replacing the chain sprocket, I cut the original retaining clip off as suggested and replaced it with one that could actually be removed in the future haha.

Sharpened the chain and has a good amount of power doing a couple test cuts. Bar and chain are at end of life, but seems to work fine apart from the oil tank (new one with female threaded cap ordered).

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I believe I'd call this project pretty much complete..., and quite thoroughly well done.

Good job.

 

[hotshot]

I made a new oil tank cap gasket out of the Felpro cork-rubber, but regardless of how tight the cap/gasket are on there, oil still slowly oozes out during operation. Very frustrating and open to suggestions. Are the oil tanks with the female threaded caps interchangeable with mine (like here)?

Misunderstood you about oiling, I thought you weren't getting enough oil at the bar pad, it was instead your cap seal oozing the oil out...

“Either way, what are the issues if the diaphragm is hard & the pintle possibly crimps onto the diaphragm? “

If the pump diaphragm material is too hard to flex, or if it has a hole worn in it where the pump rod mounts, then it won’t pump metered oil. That rod cycles about 150 times per second at WOT.

 

[Okie]

Duckbill adapter to larger lines.
I've used the insulation from a solid copper electrical wire as the duckbill adapter.
Think it was maybe a #10 wire and I removed the copper wire and just used the Hollow plastic insulation as the adapter. The plastic insulation is stiff and oil resistant and holds the duckbill good when the proper size is used.
I've seen some instance mentioned that a oil line might have a sintered bronze fitting so as the bar would not over oil. do not remember where the bronze fitting was located because none of my Super 2 use such and they oil ok. I've seen guys on this site show pic's of such and mentioned such.
You can keep and eye and ear open for the other type oil and gas tanks with the external threads on the caps. (keep a eye open around trash dumps and garage sales for the Super 2 saws for spare parts) Sometimes you will find a donor junker is better than what you are working on and backtrack and transfer parts from the one you are working on to the better junker. (as a step up)

I found one in a dump in a plastic carrying case. Just needed gas line and duckbills.
I do not use the low kickback type chains or you can file/grind off the safety tangs and make the low kickback cut like a regular chain.
To grind them off I take the chain off and go to a bench grinder and you can fold the chain so as the low kickback tang is easily ground down or out of the way. Use a leather glove and do not get them excessively hot.