If the compression is good , you did well. I bought one used in the late 70's and cut firewood with it for 25 years. Only had to dress and set the points once. Nice gutsy little saw. I finally retired it and did a resto.
Homelite super ez
- Thread starter beavis331
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Beutiful restoration!
Beautiful saw Buzz
I called my cousin a few weeks ago to see if he would sell my out grandpa's old EZ. Buzzard hasn't called me back yet.
I called my cousin a few weeks ago to see if he would sell my out grandpa's old EZ. Buzzard hasn't called me back yet.
GypsyCliff
LOVE WOOD!
I have that saw that I got free. Can you tell me what is the starting point for adjusting the high and low on the carb. I had it running but did some more cleaning and such and now it won't Stay Running.
Thanks!
Cliff
Right about peeking behind the muffler first then I would probably pull the clutch cover and take a look at the sprocket, look carefully at the bar for any hot spots and check the roller tip. (most came with the roller tip bar and the chain has to be run snug or small twigs when trimming will jump the chain off) Some came with a 16 inch bar and big tooth aggressive chain and they will carry the load good when all is well.
They usually require full choke and several cranks to get a promise if they have not been started in awhile.
After a pop go to 1/2 choke and go for a run. After it takes throttle push the choke knob from 1/2 notch to off.
That is a compression release push button by the handle, hold down the throttle trigger and push the compression release. It will auto release itself after it starts and you pull the trigger.
Very hard to pull thru W/O using the compression release.
Carb is easily kitted, easy to remove, but not user friendly re-installing due to the linkages.
I have a red one (super EZ) with OEM owners manual and parts lists that is around 40 years old that I still use quite often. Powerful little saw for it's size.
IMHO: Most any used saw is going to require additional TLC and most likely few additional $$ and labor repairs.
$80 is tops assuming you do the TLC and you want to keep it for yourself, little too much if it has to go to a repair shop for a problem of any kind and you are buying for a resale.
I usually start with one turn out on both screws for most saws I've worked on.
You say you got it for free.
I also believe in Santa and the tooth fairy.
Start at 1 then try 2 turns out. Keep the H out as far as possible when you get it running so as to run rich and 4 cycle somewhat to help prevent ruining the saw engine due to overheating. Make sure you are turning the choke off if it tries to start.
It is quite common for the little gaskets to dry out in the carb, especially the flapper and the saw gets erratic.
If good spark plug don't fix it, you probably need a carb kit. On old saws I usually just go ahead and give them a carb kit if they are least little bit squirrely and erratic and get it over with. I think you will see some numbers on the carb for kit reference after you remove the carb and have the new kit at the workbench so as you can keep all in order as you remove the old gaskets. Kits are not expensive.
My 40 year old EZ still has the OEM points/ignition. I had to install one carb kit when it was about 25 years old.
GypsyCliff
LOVE WOOD!
Okie,
Now what you talkin bout Willis?
I was helping my daughter's man clean out the shed that had belonged to an old man who went to the nursing home and died there. His people went through his stuff, got what they wanted, and left the rest for the new owner. Above mentioned daughter's man was paid to clean up the shed were, lo and behold, we found the Super EZ and the remains of 2 other saws hanging on nails.
I called dibs on the EZ and brought it home to see if it could be resurrected. It had no spark, which was remedied by 1. Replacing the plug, and 2. Cleaning the crap out of the flywheel and associated parts. As you may well believe, there was much crap to be cleaned! This resulted in a nice, hot spark.
So moving on, I tried the throttle. Nada! Stuck fast. Would not move! So having No Experience with Homelite saws, I searched on this site, got enough advice to get the carb off, and with the able assistance of one of my best friends, was able to get it disassembled and unstuck!
After sticking it all back together we squirted some of his 2 cycle mix into the carb and BlamO, started that sucker up. It wouldn't stay running, but at least we Knew we were heading in the right direction!
Brought it home and tried to fit on the almost-brand-new B&C friend had given me from his trashed, plastic, almost new Homelite but no such luck. It was too small, and wouldn't fit onto the chain adjuster. Which brought me back to what I thought was trashed original B&C. Turned out the bar was an almost new Oregon sprocket nosed model that was just filthy, and need of a good cleaning and lubing. The nose was stuck, but not at all beyond resurrection. Again, cleaned the crap out of it, and it was good to go.
Which brings us to the chain. Not such an easy fix! It took way more cleaning, lubing, cleaning, lubing, flexing, more cleaning, and more lubing! After many hours, Finally got the whole thing freed up, and beneath all the crud and crap found what had been an almost new Oregon chain with plenty of tooth left on the teeth!
And after replacing the fuel line with the help of my able and very patient wife, I got it to run. But not Stay Running. Now it seems like it needs a carb kit.
But, in total, so far, I have less than $10 in this soon-to-be-running dandy little saw. And it sounds Badass!
bulletpruf is helping me out with a Very Inexpensive used clutch cover (thanks) , to replace the original which has a dangerous hole in the side. Little Al warned me (thanks) to not run the saw with that hole, or risk severe bodily injury! Taking that advice!
It's taken me a couple of weeks, lots of Blaster spray, and some very dirty hands, but precious little money to get the Santa/Tooth Fairy Saw almost running. Soon Friend, soon.
Cliff
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Have you looked at the piston yet?
GypsyCliff
LOVE WOOD!
Yep. Took the muffler off. Cleaned a ton of crud out of the exhaust. Piston looks good.
Somebody had already taken the guts out of the muffler. It's just a shell. Was A nasty, dirty, oily shell. Much cleaner now.
Saw has a ton of compression. So much that it's hard to pull over without the compression release!
Cliff
GypsyCliff
LOVE WOOD!
I didn't mean the restored one!!! That would be too much!! Sorry for any cornfussions!
Cliff
You probably know this, but if that is the OEM bar if you will look close you will see a itty bitty GREASE hole on each side of the bar at the roller tip area. Use a needle tip and use regular EP2 gun grease. Homelite had a itty bitty plastic push type grease gun for such at one time, but do not get the plastic one, the plastic gets sun baked and crumbles like Poulan plastics, suspect the plastic for the grease gun was probably maybe made by Poulan.
How do I know this you ask yourself? (I own some Poulans)
How do I know this you ask yourself? (I own some Poulans)
Gypsy Cliff, next time you can save money by using automatic transmission fluid instead of blaster spray.
That right there, the part about compression. Lots of folks find these saws, run a compression test and they think they got a really good P/C if it test 140-150lbs. They are wrong, they got one with a bunch of wear on it. The SEZ in good shape runs in the 170-180lbs range. Homelite didn't put that automatic decomp on it just for looks. It is also why these little saws have more guts then most would think.
I have a couple of these still around, one I restored for my dad coming on a few years back now.
GypsyCliff
LOVE WOOD!
Looks GREAT! Mine will not be that fancy, dressed up and ready for the dance.
GypsyCliff
LOVE WOOD!
You probably know this, but if that is the OEM bar if you will look close you will see a itty bitty GREASE hole on each side of the bar at the roller tip area. Use a needle tip and use regular EP2 gun grease. Homelite had a itty bitty plastic push type grease gun for such at one time, but do not get the plastic one, the plastic gets sun baked and crumbles like Poulan plastics, suspect the plastic for the grease gun was probably maybe made by Poulan.
How do I know this you ask yourself? (I own some Poulans)
Yes, found the lube holes and have a needle nose adapter for my grease gun that I bought for my Stihl 028. Squirted the EZ bar full of grease, and man O man it squeezed out nasty, stinky Funk. After greasing it and rolling in around repeatedly on rags 99% of the crud seems to be gone, and it acts like a good one. Rolls easy now.
Thanks for the pointer. If one didn't know, one might not see that tiny hole. And on that bar it is tiny!
Cliff
GypsyCliff
LOVE WOOD!
scottr,
Thanks for the suggestion. Thing is, I don't have ATF, but do have several cans of blaster. And since we live out in the country, on a dead end gravel road, it's just easier to use what I have on hand. As you might imagine, the internet, with the ability to shop online, has been a boon for us. Able to buy lots of stuff much cheaper and have it brought right here.
The UPS driver that drove this route for 28 years used to HATE our road when it was dry, and dusty in the Summer. He couldn't stand the dust! Really nice guy though.
Cliff
Once you use all of your PB Blaster, either go with 50/50 ATF and acetone or buy yourself some Kroil. I think Kroil works better, but it's not cheap.
GypsyCliff
LOVE WOOD!
Scott,
I ain't never heard of or seen no Kroil. Where does one come across same? The ATF/acetone I might be able to do, but again, not something I have laying around. Anyway, thanks for the advice. I will keep it in mind next time I go into town and look around at the farm store.
Cliff
Looks great Mark!
