Homelite Super XL Automatic

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I have a Super XL Automatic that I bought for twenty bucks because it had no spark. It has the blue coil. I wrapped the coil in aluminum foil, to keep the fumes down, set the oven at 300 degrees, and put the coil in the oven. When the oven had warmed to 300 degrees I baked it for ten additional minutes and then shut the oven off and let it cool down.

Reinstalled the coil and it had spark and has worked without a problem. I have cut 5 or 6 pick up loads of wood with it.

It is worth a shot and costs nothing to do.

Aparently at 300 degrees the varnish in the coil softens and somehow resets itself.

Man ..... they don't teach that in small engine class. Sweet idea! I just pick this up. Has a bad carb I believe. Looked pretty sweet, so I was suckered in to buying it. Anybody know the build date from the serial number?

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I love these saws and still use them to cut when I'm having fun. I have to admit that they really wear out the part of my hand that I lost feeling in from cutting the tendons and they really crush the fuel/mix can.
 
I have one just like that Randy, except mine doesn't have the manual oiler pump bits. From what I gathered, those parts (on these blue SXL Automatics) were not installed at the factory, but could be (and often were) installed by dealers. That SN is too early to decode for exact build date. Judging by the color scheme and the relatively high SN (and the fuel line style), I'd say it was probably built aroun 1968-1969. Now I need to dig mine out of the box (it's waiting it's turn in line) and read the SN to see where it fits in relation to your saw. That's another nice score my friend. Nicer than mine.
 
I have one just like that Randy, except mine doesn't have the manual oiler pump bits. From what I gathered, those parts (on these blue SXL Automatics) were not installed at the factory, but could be (and often were) installed by dealers. That SN is too early to decode for exact build date. Judging by the color scheme and the relatively high SN (and the fuel line style), I'd say it was probably built aroun 1968-1969. Now I need to dig mine out of the box (it's waiting it's turn in line) and read the SN to see where it fits in relation to your saw. That's another nice score my friend. Nicer than mine.

Thanks for the help. For a moment reading your post and holding my saw I really felt like I was on Antiques Roadshow. Then I came to and got back to my beer!
 
Thanks for the help. For a moment reading your post and holding my saw I really felt like I was on Antiques Roadshow. Then I came to and got back to my beer!

Not sure if that's a compliment or an insult. No matter. Where's my beer?:cheers:

My saw is just a tad earlier than yours. Dug it out and checked the SN. 30181003. Still the hightest SN blue XL-12 series saw I have by far (and yours is the hightest I've seen). The rest of the tag and the markings are identical. I believe Homelite switched to the black/silver stickers on the carb box shortly after your saw was made. Mine's missing a clutch cover and clutch drum (I have spares, but not a cover with the right paint scheme) and has about a pound of gunk on it. DIRTY SAW!

A friend here sent it to me for the cost of shipping about a year ago. I put it on the shelf (in 'line') and haven't done much with it yet. Needs a GOOD cleaning and maybe new rings. P/C look good, but there's lotsa carbon. Rings are probably gunked into the ring grooves. Once I get it all squared away I'll hunt for a 'correct' clutch cover.
 
i still havnt been able to come up with any info but i have a sxl cutoff sawi th a full wrap handle text me i need stihl 075/076 parts i have pics, you better too, -Anthony
 
Homelite Super XL Parts

I just found this site looking for parts for my Super XL Automatic its a red one with points, I can't seem to get any fire and I was hoping to find a electronic ignition kit to replace the old coil and points system, but maybe someone on here can direct me to a good parts site for this saw. P.S. I've owned this saw since 1979 so it's part of the family and I would like to revive it.
 
I just found this site looking for parts for my Super XL Automatic its a red one with points, I can't seem to get any fire and I was hoping to find a electronic ignition kit to replace the old coil and points system, but maybe someone on here can direct me to a good parts site for this saw. P.S. I've owned this saw since 1979 so it's part of the family and I would like to revive it.

I'd take the wires to the points loose and check it with an ohmmeter (continuity meter) to see if the points are making contact. If it's not been serviced in awhile it's a good chance that's what's wrong with it. You could also check the coil and kill switch also. You may not need any parts, just a little tlc.
 
It seems that the electronic ign Homelites are prone to failure more often than the points ign type are. I keep all of mine points & cond. as those replacement modules are kinda pricey.
 
SXL made in 1996

Got an SXL with a toasted piston from a friend last Saturday.

UT10045F SN HR2140190 Has a solid state Phelon ignition with a black coil. Zama carb. with the small fuel line. Paint, under a pound can of saw cake, has only a few chips. The cylinder got so hot it blistered the paint in the bottom of the carb. box.

It's the one in the middle.

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Hit BIN on a piston w/rings on evilbay. Cylinder cleaned up serviceable enuff.

Can I leave out the cylinder base gasket?

Carl.
 
I understand how to check the points, but how do you check the coil?

You have to use an ohmmeter. Go from ground to the points wire with it disconnected from the points, should read just a few ohms, probably not over 10 or so. The secondary of the coil is measured from ground to the end of the sparkplug wire, should read several thousand ohms. This is actually a step up transformer, but called a coil. A small AC voltage induced into the primary which in turn induces it into the secondary and steps up the voltage. Smaller amount of windings on the primary side compared to the secondary. If it shows open on the secondary side you could also have a bad plug wire.
 
You have to use an ohmmeter. Go from ground to the points wire with it disconnected from the points, should read just a few ohms, probably not over 10 or so. The secondary of the coil is measured from ground to the end of the sparkplug wire, should read several thousand ohms. This is actually a step up transformer, but called a coil. A small AC voltage induced into the primary which in turn induces it into the secondary and steps up the voltage. Smaller amount of windings on the primary side compared to the secondary. If it shows open on the secondary side you could also have a bad plug wire.

Thank you
 
Late production SXL.

Just finished putting in a new piston & rings in this. S.N. HR2140190.......circa 1996 production.

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Has a Zama carb. and a black Phelon solid state coil.

Previous owner let it get clogged up with saw cake and overheated to the point the piston welded itself to the cylinder wall.

I need to find an XL-12 stack exhaust and get rid of that ugly sheet metal muffler.
 
Just finished putting in a new piston & rings in this. S.N. HR2140190.......circa 1996 production.

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Has a Zama carb. and a black Phelon solid state coil.

Previous owner let it get clogged up with saw cake and overheated to the point the piston welded itself to the cylinder wall.

I need to find an XL-12 stack exhaust and get rid of that ugly sheet metal muffler.

Pics don't show up for me Carl. A stack wouldn't look "right" on a LATE production saw like that. Get one of the earlier, smaller can mufflers like what I have on this XL-12. Just my $.02. It's your saw my friend. Do whatcha want...

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Pics don't show up for me Carl. A stack wouldn't look "right" on a LATE production saw like that. Get one of the earlier, smaller can mufflers like what I have on this XL-12. Just my $.02. It's your saw my friend. Do whatcha want...

But, a stack would be much louder. Save the lawyer approved muffler for the next owner.

See if the links work.

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And, no, I did not paint it. Finish is original.
 
But, a stack would be much louder. Save the lawyer approved muffler for the next owner.

See if the links work.

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And, no, I did not paint it. Finish is original.

I have one that's similar to that one only mine says "Old Blue" on the flywheel cover. I think I'll leave the stock muffler on mine. I do, however, have a stack "muffler" on my XL-12. It's a little hard on the ears.
 
I have a homelite Super XL i just picked up two hours ago and has no ID plate on it. I'm kinda bummed bc it needs some tlc. Can anyone help with Identification!



Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2
 
Ok guys i did some very intense searching and I found that someone stated homelite didnt put hand guards on XLAO's until 78-79ish?
My saw has no place to mount the guard or any sign of a guard ever existing.... Can anyone help?

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2
 
Hi guys . I'm new here and recently I bought SXL automatic in good shape except muffler is damaged by rust. Does anyone know where could I find in general parts for old Homelite chainsaws( sxl) ??? I'm located in Germany so this could be a double problem but i like this Saw
 
Hi guys . I'm new here and recently I bought SXL automatic in good shape except muffler is damaged by rust. Does anyone know where could I find in general parts for old Homelite chainsaws( sxl) ??? I'm located in Germany so this could be a double problem but i like this Saw
If it’s not too rotted you could braze it. I’ve done this to one saw muffler.
 

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