Homelite Super XL rebuild questions

[MEATSAW]

I posted this in the homelite thread with no takers so I hope I get some help here:

So I am rebuilding my blue super XL and I have some questions.

What should the squish be? Has anyone ran without the cylinder gasket? Im asking because my new cylinder gasket measured at .030" which seemed a bit much. I could cut it in half and use it for the intake side and then use motoseal to seal the cylinder.

Mine has the auto oiler only (manual was disabled at factory). Do I need the copper tubing from the tank to the dysfunctional plunger? Doesn't seem to have a purpose.

I am converting from points to electronic using a mega-fire ignition. Where do you mount the module? The big magnesium piece that housed the points and capacitor doesn't have room for the module.

It has the original spur sprocket. I wanted to change to a rim drive. I got the right Oregon rim & drum (30666x) I think but it would not work. There is a small bushing that goes between the crankshaft and the clutch bearing. On mine it's too small in diameter to match the inner diameter of the bearing and drum. My previous sxl had a larger bushing and this rim kit worked great. Is this a spur sprocket only bushing?

That's all for now!

 

[drumbum]

I have a Big Red that I went through, stuck a used piston & cylinder on it. Reassembled sans base gasket, and as best I can tell it still has .058 squish. Had to slot the ignition bracket holes to get it back together. Pumping 190 psi. Converted to a rim system also. Hope this helps.

 

[MEATSAW]

I have a Big Red that I went through, stuck a used piston & cylinder on it. Reassembled sans base gasket, and as best I can tell it still has .058 squish. Had to slot the ignition bracket holes to get it back together. Pumping 190 psi. Converted to a rim system also. Hope this helps.

Good to hear. When you converted to the rim system did you have to get a larger bushing? I am not sure what part it is on the IPL but there are definitely 2 different sizes.

190 psi pretty stout of for 0.058" of squish! How does it run?

 

[drumbum]

It's been a while since I had the drum off, can't even remember if it was a roller bearing or bronze bush. It runs pretty good for 58 cc, pulls the 20" bar/chain OK, but i prefer to run one of my 60cc Poulan Pro super 330 cuz they're a good bit faster!

 

[greasefittn]

xl12 oiler

you will need the plunger assembley, and the copper line so it works. they have alum. plugs in the spots that you need to get to

 

[greasefittn]

xl12 points conversion

I switched a couple of my homelite saws to electronic using a kit from randys off of ebay. the kit was about 13 dollars and mounted anywhere . it was a 2 wire small mogule about the size of a postage stamp one wire went to the coil the other to ground. I have one on a 1050 and the other on a xl12 both work ok.

 

[JHctRednek]

Might not be worth the trouble

I completed the conversion on an XL12 and the saw ate three of the modules in one season. Was extremely frustrating.

I mounted it on the coil

View attachment 248883

Best of luck

 

[67L36Driver]

I completed the conversion on an XL12 and the saw ate three of the modules in one season. Was extremely frustrating.

I mounted it on the coil

View attachment 248883

Best of luck

This beggs the question of why did you convert it to a module in the first place.

 

[JHctRednek]

I originally did the conversion because I thought that it would give the older saw better performance and I thought it would be easier then changing the failing points and condenser.
It was stated on the wonderful web that the conversion changed the timing and gave a more consistent and powerful spark, so I bit :msp_unsure:. The saw did seem to run stronger when it ran and I did need to readjust the carb but it could have been that the old ignition components were just that worn.

I forgot to mention that I tried two different types of modules the self grounding one wire type and the typical two wire type, I am not sure which one I ended up with but it has been running for the last few years on the final one, I think I went back to the two wire type, would have to pull the recoil assembly and look.
Don't use those saws much anymore, they were more robust and less troublesome then the huskys I had at the time so they got lots of use back then, have since switched to mostly stihls and only use the old homelites to cut demolition wood for the out door boiler (barn beams, fence posts and scrap wood).

I guess I'll never really know:dont-know:

That's the problem with having two almost identical saws, you start to question why one seems to run better than the other:msp_w00t:

Best of luck

 

[MEATSAW]

I fired up the saw last night (finally!) at around 2am. I tested the ignition and it was producing a real nice spark, so I think its good to go. The saw fired up great, I idled it for about 10-15 seconds and then shut er down. More playing around with everything today. I mounted the module to the inside bottom of the starter cover. Seems like a good place. I post a more detailed post with pictures later.

 

[greasefittn]

electronic conversion

I did the conversion on the 1050 homee because something came loose it the little points compartment and ruined it. I had a new set for it but I didnt have another point box

 

[MEATSAW]

Okay here it is, lots of pictures imbound!

This is how it started, good looking saw -- but it had an oil leak and compression was a shade under 130psi.

More and more pieces come off.

Cylinder off, time to take the piston off, clean up everything and start the rebuild

New piston and rings installed, now comes the fun part of getting everything else put back together

I used motoseal instead of a cylinder gasket -- worked great. Here is the megafire ignition

And here it is all put back together and running good. Initial compression test after I let it run for a few minutes and tuned it came out between 165 and 170psi. Sounds real good!

 

[Eccentric]

Good job.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

This is how it started, good looking saw -- but it had an oil leak and compression was a shade under 130psi.

More and more pieces come off.

Cylinder off, time to take the piston off, clean up everything and start the rebuild

New piston and rings installed, now comes the fun part of getting everything else put back together

I used motoseal instead of a cylinder gasket -- worked great. Here is the megafire ignition

And here it is all put back together and running good. Initial compression test after I let it run for a few minutes and tuned it came out between 165 and 170psi. Sounds real good!

Did you have any issues with the carb box mounting to the transfer plate with out a gasket? I'm going to assume you sealed this area with liquid gasket of some type also but you didn't run into any spacing issues or alignment problems?